ULTIMATE ANGLING - the Ultimate SA Fishing website
General Angling Topics => REEL TECH, SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE => Topic started by: BAUMANNATOR on June 03, 2014, 08:32:55 PM
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After casting with this reel for a while now, I have had both incredible results (182m) and many blow-ups and over thumbing. It is a beaut of a reel, but in real fishing scenarios daunting.
So I did some research and decided to static mag it. This involes using a rare earth magnet (as used on name badges) to slow the spool down by using the resultant eddy currents generated by the non- magnetic spool during revolving at high speed.
I used a scrap book spine screw to make an adjustable break. This was epoxied onto the side plate withe the magnet superglued (gel) on the female.The distance from the sideplate to the spool was measured and the screw filed to be 3mm off, allowing it to be adjusted clser if need be.
The final result was amasing. I cast 5 casts, got the average after measuring with a rangefinder and my son as the runner. ..162m with a 6oz and 36T, T53 medium heavy rod. Next I simulated a clip bait by using a hockey ball (6oz).... 136m was the average of 3 casts.
I feel this is an area that can be pursued by folks using braid on conventionals in controlling backlashes.
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?action-media;sa=media;in=2104;preview)
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Now this sounds interesting , would you be able to post some pics at a later stage
BAUMANNATOR , mods like this is facinating stuff .
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Not sure how to post the photos from my phone.... Was going to do a pictorial, but came undone
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Here are some photos
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Now this has got my interest... please post some more pics! More info...!
How is the screw "adjustable" once it;s glued. Have you got a pic of the magnet? I assume it's glued to the spool?
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Interesting indeed.
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You use the srew function to screw it in or out 'till you get the resistance you want. The fact is I made up 3 of different lengths, tested them and then decided on the one I like the most. Once decided, I measure and then do one to screw in tight to the length. The screws are easy to come by, cost litttle (R2.50 each). The one side is 'fixed' to the sideplate and then you simply superglue a magnet to the other then swap out 'till you achieve your required resistance. You then only simply remove when reverting back to blinding speed.
I found that you can push your cast harder and with more confidence, especially with bait.
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Some more picks
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The screw before fixing to sideplate.
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REEFZ, just remember the spool is not affected in anyway. The magnet causes resistance of the 'eddy currents' generated by the spool and thus never comes into contact. Nothing is placed on the spool. You are merely introducing a magnetic fiels amongst the 'eddy caurrents' and thus 'braking'. It is the smoothest form of resistance. Using lubricants to increase resistance by varying viscosity is really more laboursome and affected by temperature changes more.
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I love mag brakes, was using a okuma contoura for the last few years and just love it, bought a okuma cortez 12
recently because I could'nt find any other brand with mag brakes with a decent spool size. I get much better
distance with the brakes set than when its off. GReat job making it work on a larger reel Baumannator.
I just wish the "bigger" brand names start putting mag options.
The penn squall was to small so I went the okuma route
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Damn, wish I understood what you were doing... sounds good but I can't get my head round what you're explaining. You don't perhaps feel like doing a step by step Tut by any chance? :hnthnt:
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2bar in my searching there were chaps who magged even Senators. They all made use of glueing the magnets on a type of rail. I saw an opportunity to make it slightly adjustable to fine tune. If it works for tournament casting ; ie, the abu's and daiwa 7ht's, it can only help in bigger reels without cast controls.
I did not want to make a ' nobby' that adjusts externally as it destroys the aesthetics and compromises the reels corrosion protection.
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REEFZ IT IS ACTUALLY SIMPLE.
Open the side plate and. measure with a vernier the depth of the side plate where there is space, to place the mag.
Now measure the depth of the inside of the sppol from the frame. Add the two together and you now know your clearance.
Now take the threaded component and glue onto the sidecover. Glue your magnet (rare earth) onto the head of the female part. When dry screw together and measure their combined total depth. Now file from both. Untill you are at least 2-3mm p#ast what you calculated. You put the cover back on and make sure you are not touching the spool. Spin the spool and notice how it slows down fast. You now have magged your reel. Play and cast till you get the resistance that suits your need. Clear nail polish the components and voila.;
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Ok next question... where does one get Rare earth magnets from? Been looking at some overseas websites that Stat Mag their reels, most of them glue a template onto the side plate, then attach magnets to it. Thinking of doing my Penn Fathom, which also has a free floating spool shaft like the Torque, and could do with a bit more control in the cast.
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@reefman
why would you want to do that to the fathom? arent the brackes enough or are you going to remove the braking system them?
i still dont understand the magnet concept
i know that the squall comes with mag system. wouldnt it then be better to buy a squall?
ek is maar stupid jong
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Nee wat, ek is stupider as jy!
The Fathom is manageable to cast, only just, but with a Mag system, it should slow the spool down sufficiently to be able to throw harder. It's not critical, but I've always been interested in Magging, because all the Champion long distance casters use them. So I want to play around with it and see what it actually does... maybe we'll start a new "T R E N D"! :hehe:
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Reefman might agree the squall only has mags on the 2 smallest models which is too small I think
and the fathoms centrifugal brakes are not as good as mag, theres actual friction for it to work vs mags
Best part is if you tune the mag right you use your thumb very little, i tap the drum twice when casting
, once when the sinker leaves and when it hits the water, I get 100m with a 12' rod 5oz with mono
http://www.pennreels.com/products/reels/conventional-reels/star-drag-reels/squall (http://www.pennreels.com/products/reels/conventional-reels/star-drag-reels/squall)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ux3vbd-_mas (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ux3vbd-_mas)
If you can borrow a magged reel from someone fore a day or two DOENIT, you will be surprised
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http://www.japantackle.com/Topics/brake_system.htm (http://www.japantackle.com/Topics/brake_system.htm)
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The magnets are the same ones they use on name badges....the very ones that kill your bank card if you bring it too close.
The spool is not magnetic, but the eddy currents generated during the spinning are affected by the magnetic field of the magnet....causing resistance.
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I googled and found Sabel Magnetics in SA. enquiries@sabels.co.za You may wish to check with them. What you are looking for are Neodymium magnets, also known as Rare earth magnets.
You can also look up Lee Valley Tools in the USA which is where I get mine from. https://www.leevalley.com (https://www.leevalley.com) Go to hardware , magents , rare earth magents. They have what you will need along with cups to fit them in if you need them. These magnets, and what I suggest you get from anyone, are nickel plated. They will however over time loose the plating, so I would suggest that you buy a few as replacements. If you are in the habit of getting saltwater in your reel I also suggest that you take the end plate off and clean the mag/s after each trip.
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If you are using static mags, you need to try and get the mag as close to the spool as possible. As it is sometimes difficult to get the distance from the side plate to the spot on the spool you have picked, what I do is get some Silly putty ( or any material that will permanently compress). Stick a lump of it between the frame and the spool close it up and when you open back up you have what the distance between the plate and spool is.
Then you can adjust your backing and magnet combination to slightly less than the spool to frame distance. You will have to play around with a combination of magnet sizes and or quantity to get the braking you want, before you superglue your magnet/s etc to the side plate. The benifit of static mags is you don't have to drill holes in your reel, and while fishing you eliminate the risk of accidentally altering the setting on your adjustable mag. Hope this helps.
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It certainly does! Thanx for your input Nigel. :+ cred: will get this project going now...
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Following this thread with great interest.
:+ cred: Andros and Nigel
Can't wait when I'm on the beach, open up my hook box and have have of it go flying across the sand to cling to Tonys reel !
:rotfl
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LOL. You will see that he mag will stick those parts that fly out the sideplate before ending on the floor.
I use nail topcoat to coat the magnet, to inhibit corrosion.
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how to get neodymium magnets for free (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ttcLQgTLC8M#)
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Ok awesome link there Sparky! :+ cred:
Dismantled my Seagate Hardrives and got 2 beaut Neodymium magnets out of it!! Sheesh these are strong magnets! Anyhow, they are much bigger than the ones in the video... can someone help with making these smaller? Can one just grind them smaller with an angle grinder or Dremel tool?
Any other lekka links on how to Mag a reel will be appreciated! Thanks!
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What Bauman spoke about, actually very nicely done this one
http://www.worldseafishing.com/forums/tackle-equipment-discussions/288445-shimano-torium-14-knobby.html (http://www.worldseafishing.com/forums/tackle-equipment-discussions/288445-shimano-torium-14-knobby.html)
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2bar that one involves a knobby, where you have to drill through the side plate... hmmm not so keen on doing that...
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2bar that one involves a knobby, where you have to drill through the side plate... hmmm not so keen on doing that...
Yip I know :thmsup"
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http://www.pierandsurf.com/fishing-forum/showthread.php?72491-Static-mag-Daiwa-Sealine-X-SHA-20-30 (http://www.pierandsurf.com/fishing-forum/showthread.php?72491-Static-mag-Daiwa-Sealine-X-SHA-20-30)
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There is a ton of information out there on all kinds of magging. Here are a few that will give you a variety of solutions, and how to information. Magging can be done with say one big magnet or a number of smaller ones. It partly depends on what space between the frame and the spool you have. Magnets can also be stacked on top of each other.
Bear in mind that if you use several magnets , it is best to align them + - + - + etc.for the most breaking force.
Reefman, do yourself a favour and just buy a few magnets, trying to grind down hard drive mags is just too much effort considering the cost of the right sized magnets.
www.southrensurffishing.com/articles/pennsquidder.shtml (http://www.southrensurffishing.com/articles/pennsquidder.shtml)
www.torquedsolutions.com/images/toejam/magging.pdf (http://www.torquedsolutions.com/images/toejam/magging.pdf)
www.songslinger.net/magsquid.htm (http://www.songslinger.net/magsquid.htm)
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Button magnets
http://www.cthobbies.co.za/pMAGNET-R/Strong-Rare-Earth-Button-Magnets.aspx (http://www.cthobbies.co.za/pMAGNET-R/Strong-Rare-Earth-Button-Magnets.aspx)
http://magnets4u.co.za/products/rareearth.html (http://magnets4u.co.za/products/rareearth.html)
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Looks like hobby shops will have them
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I know Jonothan has been magging a couple of reels locally , best give him a shout for advice , if any is needed .
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Here are some photos of a BG40 I just magged and tested. Shimmed under magnet to get the resistance I wanted. Casts like a dream. No brake blocks and minimal resistance gets me 160+ consistantly with a 6oz.
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Some more awesome responses here... gonna need some time to check these all out.
Meanwhile yesterday, I cut my Magnet up into smaller pieces and used plastoceine to support them in the side plate... couldn't believe how they slow the spool down! :shk Was gobsmacked in fact! Just need to work through a few issues of whether to remove the braking system completely from the Fathom to make space for the magnets and a method of supporting the magnets... need to look for those book binder screws somewhere...
:tkx:
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REEFMAN, the screws are attainable from Waltons or anywhere that does scrapbooking. You can also do what I did with the BG40 and put mags on the 'other' side and then leave the cast controls.
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Reefz wait till you get the finished product to the water :rck"
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Eish... just when I thought I knew everything!! :hyst:
#never stop learning#!!
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jeez this is an interesting topic. keeping an eye on this one.
question from a technically challenged oke... what is the knob for?
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Very nice demo on eddie current
Eddy Current Demo. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu1uRvErM80#)
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jeez this is an interesting topic. keeping an eye on this one.
question from a technically challenged oke... what is the knob for?
It makes it adjustable ;)
Nice one Sparky
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Very nice demo on eddie current
Eddy Current Demo. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu1uRvErM80#)
Nawt...! :shk Amazing stuff!!! (clap)
Question for the cleva boys... is a Rare Earth magnet different to a normal magnet in the way the Eddy currents are formed?
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Extracted from Wikepedia (Developed in the 1970s and '80s, rare-earth magnets are the strongest type of permanent magnets made, producing significantly stronger magnetic fields than other types such as ferrite (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrite_(magnet)) or alnico (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alnico) magnets. The magnetic field (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_field) typically produced by rare-earth magnets can be in excess of 1.4 teslas (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tesla_(unit)), whereas ferrite or ceramic magnets typically exhibit fields of 0.5 to 1 tesla. ) Extracted from my pea brain .. :hyst: so it looks like rare earth magnets would create a stronger magnetic field than the normal magnets .... very cool indeed so by placing more magnets in the side plate at the correct distance from the spool will create a bigger force or more effect on the spool ... bye bye overwinds ... :dunno: , i just dont wont to be there when that magnet comes unstuck and decides to run around in the side plate with the spool... :shk , thats if they are epoxied in place and the epoxy lets go ... eina pain ...
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Reefs
I no cleva, 4 I R BABOON, but i could not find any difference in how the Eddy currents are created within the Rare Earth and the oter ferrous or ferite magnets. Instead, it seems the same, see black bold. What is very interesting, probably a scientific worded explanation for what actually attributes to the smoothness of the system is in blue at the bottom.
Thankfully most if not all my bait casting reels have these systems in place. However they are applied in a circular fashion with each a little further from the spool than the previous. The adjustablity thereof brings all these magnets closer to the spool simultaniously but not on the same level, and this makes them so great (very very fine tuning). So when they are all tuned closer, the Gauss is not multiplied by say three (all at the same leve) but rather by 1 + 0.6 + 0.1 and so forth
Eddy currents are created when a conductor experiences changes in the magnetic field. If either the conductor is moving through a steady magnetic field, or the magnetic field is changing around a stationary conductor, eddy currents will occur in the conductor. Both effects are present when a conductor moves through a varying magnetic field, as is the case at the top and bottom edges of the magnetized region shown in the diagram. Eddy currents will be generated wherever a conducting object experiences a change in the intensity or direction of the magnetic field at any point within it, and not just at the boundaries.
The swirling current set up in the conductor is due to electrons experiencing a Lorentz force that is perpendicular to their motion. Hence, they veer to their right, or left, depending on the direction of the applied field and whether the strength of the field is increasing or declining. The resistivity of the conductor acts to damp the amplitude of the eddy currents, as well as straighten their paths. The current swirls in such a way as to create an induced magnetic field that opposes the phenomenon that created it. In the case of a varying applied field, the induced field will always be in the opposite direction to that applied. The same will be true when a varying external field is increasing in strength. However, when a varying field is falling in strength, the induced field will be in the same direction as that originally applied, in order to oppose the decline.
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Extracted from Wikepedia (Developed in the 1970s and '80s, rare-earth magnets are the strongest type of permanent magnets made, producing significantly stronger magnetic fields than other types such as ferrite (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrite_(magnet)) or alnico (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alnico) magnets. The magnetic field (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_field) typically produced by rare-earth magnets can be in excess of 1.4 teslas (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tesla_(unit)), whereas ferrite or ceramic magnets typically exhibit fields of 0.5 to 1 tesla. ) Extracted from my pea brain .. :hyst: so it looks like rare earth magnets would create a stronger magnetic field than the normal magnets .... very cool indeed so by placing more magnets in the side plate at the correct distance from the spool will create a bigger force or more effect on the spool ... bye bye overwinds ... :dunno: , i just dont wont to be there when that magnet comes unstuck and decides to run around in the side plate with the spool... :shk , thats if they are epoxied in place and the epoxy lets go ... eina pain ...
Ies troe, read somewhere that normal magents magnetic force can push around 800 to 1000 gauss whereas the rare earth klippies can muster up to 3500 gauss which is pretty strong.....
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Heres an interesting link to finding stuff to convert a reel to a mag cast control www.blakdogtackle.com (http://www.blakdogtackle.com) click on the Daiwa upgrades very interesting indeed .. w;k
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Mike I'm sure Pratley steel is upto the job, as long as the
surface is prepared correctly ie scuff both surfaces and clean ;)
I use Pratley alot
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Ideally, you don't want to stick the magnet down with glue, otherwise it becomes non-adjustable, right? Need to have a metal base that is glued to the side plate, then the magnet just sits on top of that - can be removed if needed...? Will a magnet stick to Pratleys steel with pure magnetic force??
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wouldnt the magnet just stick to the metal frame without any glue??
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Reefz the pratley steel is thick resin type poxy mix, very strong and sets very quickly and not magnetic
and failrly shock resistant , i guess you can use it just to do the plate or if the magnet wants to be
permanently fixed
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This is the gadget you all looking for , only issue is you have to drill the side plate to fit it ... its for a Saltist 30 , pic courtsey of www.blakdogtackle.com (http://www.blakdogtackle.com)
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magged my shimano corvalus earlier, gotta say no more overwinds, used the magnet out of a 2.5inch hdd
local supplier for magnets http://www.magnetech.co.za/ (http://www.magnetech.co.za/)
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How did you mount the Magnets Sparky?
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cut a piece of steel and q-bonded it to the frame, will post pics in the morning, today was the first time i could really chuck a sinker without an overwind, up untill now i'ver never been able to cast this reel without a nest
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Some great pics on the Pier and Surf website that 2bar posted!!
http://www.pierandsurf.com/fishing-forum/showthread.php?72491-Static-mag-Daiwa-Sealine-X-SHA-20-30 (http://www.pierandsurf.com/fishing-forum/showthread.php?72491-Static-mag-Daiwa-Sealine-X-SHA-20-30)
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/ooeric/fishing/DSC00063.jpg)
Just sommer plonk it on anywhere, even on the LHS plate!
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/ooeric/fishing/DSC00060.jpg)
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c172/ZeroOutdoors/IMAGE_084.jpg)
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Yoh.... my mind has gone into overdrive with the possibilities here... that Magnatech website is very pretty!
Since I've seen what those magnets do to a spool... hmmm too much potential for this...
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WOW. Never expected guys to get this excited.
Must say this mod has let me have the cinfidence to really get behind my casts.
The real advantage I believe is for those using braid on conventionals. I modified a saltist 35 for braid an it worked...stopped the overruns and resulting jams.
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WOW. Never expected guys to get this excited.
Must say this mod has let me have the cinfidence to really get behind my casts.
The real advantage I believe is for those using braid on conventionals. I modified a saltist 35 for braid an it worked...stopped the overruns and resulting jams.
True story
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I just wish the big brands would have mag options on their larger reels.
Seems it mostly reserved for small bass type baitcasters and very small
multipliers
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magged my shimano corvalus earlier, gotta say no more overwinds, used the magnet out of a 2.5inch hdd
local supplier for magnets http://www.magnetech.co.za/ (http://www.magnetech.co.za/)
i remember that corvalus. hehehe
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ok, im convinced. have to do this to my fathom 40. now where does one start? anyone going to do a tut? im not yet sure how the knob thingy will work
does one completely remove the centrifugal braking system
(http://www.sealine.co.za/attachment.php?id=99710)
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I'm fiddling around with mine to see what the best configuration is. I'm probably going to try put the magnets into the RHSide plate, instead of the LHS... that way, the brakes can stay.
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/fathom/fathom%204.jpg)
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Just read on AFS (http://www.australiansurfcastingfederation.org/AsfForum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1893&start=20 (http://www.australiansurfcastingfederation.org/AsfForum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1893&start=20)) guys removing the ratchet on the fathom to add the knob for the mag conversion
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They're talking about a MonoMag knobby - where you drill a hole in the side plate and put one of those adjuastable Mag thingies in, like Mike Pike posted...
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=17652.0;attach=121684;image)
No ways I'm drilling a hole in my reel to experiment!! What Bauman is advocating here is a Static Mag - where the rare earth magnets are fixed inside the side plate, as close to the spool as possible, but not touching it.
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so no drilling and no knob is required?
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What say you, I have a Shimano Corvalus @ home, You guys want me to mag it (was thinking of doing it long time ago, anyway) and do a tut on that? I will first do the stat mag and then drill the hole and do the adjustable mag tut too? Will do that tonight, if you's are interested.
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Definitely interested LGF...! That would be stellar!
What I have in mind with my Fathom....
Static Mag.... in the RHS Plate... glue in a metal piece (Red), to which the magnet attaches by magnetic force and is removable (blue).
Need to be careful here, that pinion gear through which the spool spindle fits is metal and attracts force from the magnet... hmmmm... confuzzed...
Thoughts guys?
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That would work :corrct: , just getting the clearances btween spool and magnets will be the tricky bit and if it doesnt go as planned the two pieces of metal attached to the r/h side plate will have no adverse affects on the reel , very cool indeed , i'd say give it a bash :-)
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Ja Mike, what I'm going to do is to put the magnets in on top of plastoceine and put the spool back in, then I will have an exact measurement of the clearance needed. Then it's just a matter of making things fit size-wise with glue, metal and magnet...
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reefz, keep us posted. im very interested on hearing if this get the fth to its full potential
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Definitely interested LGF...! That would be stellar!
What I have in mind with my Fathom....
Static Mag.... in the RHS Plate... glue in a metal piece (Red), to which the magnet attaches by magnetic force and is removable (blue).
Need to be careful here, that pinion gear through which the spool spindle fits is metal and attracts force from the magnet... hmmmm... confuzzed...
Thoughts guys?
Reefs, your concern regarding the pinion shouldn't be a problem, it will be nothing more than an extention of the spools' side plate (although much smaller in diameter) but all it will do is supply more surface area for the Eddy's to work on. Really blowing it out of proportion now let me explain it this way, say the spool's side was a thin metal ring and not the entire diameter and the pinion itself is metal, then you might (in this blown explanation) needed two larger magnets, now that the spools' side is metal throughout the entire diameter and the pinion is metal too, you might only need one.
I see your planned config is two on opposing sides, (probably thinking of constistant induction of the Eddy's) remember that even if you have just one magnet, the spool is continuous and the magnet applies the force consistant to the spool no matter where the spool might be in rotation at any point in time. I am say this as logically, two magnets closer to each other might induce a stronger magnetic force as they could influence each other's capabilities, thus increasing their magnetic forces as opposed to the opposed config you have in mind.
I will do a test with that too tonight, just gotta quickly scratch for a HD or two in the office, to meet the hammer this afternoon :rotfl
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pics
not wanting to pull everything apart i opted for fitting the magnet on the other side as you can see not much space to play with
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figured out i need to lift the mag 2mm so i cut a piece of steel plate and glued it in place with q-bond
the magnet fits onto this, if it's fitted to far = too little resistance... too close = too much resistance
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Jeepers Sparky... good job!
If I put a magnet that size in I doubt my spool would even move!
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Jeepers Sparky... good job!
If I put a magnet that size in I doubt my spool would even move!
it's a small magnet :hehe:
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Raaaiiit!
This is was I did:
Cut 2 small sections off a Stanley knife blade. (Stainless steel).
Glued them to opposite sides using Pratleys quickset.
Cut the large magnet up into small buttons, maybe 6mm in diam., 2.5mm thick
Placed them on the steel pieces using reverse polarity. +/- ---> one facing + up, one facing - up. Apparently the magnetic field created is stronger that way.
So... freespool without magnets - about 1min 30sec.
Freespool with the 2 tiny magnets - about 7 secs!!! :shk
Can't wait to go give this reel a throw to see how it behaves. Have made a few more mag buttons, gonna play with adding more to see....
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lemme know when you at Leeukop testing Tony
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nice job Reefs.
so in short one needs :
2x plates
2x magnets
strong bonding/glue
glue the plates to the spool SIDEPLATE and attacd the magnets onto that and bobs ur uncle
is it really that easy?
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ok, tried the office and there's a kazillion HD's who must meet the :nail: , but the bloke is very sick and not at the office, so i searched for a supplier in Pta, as I get lost South of Olifantsfontein Rd, with a GPS even the ones they factory install in Merc's. Found one and here's a pic of the Rare and Neo mag's they have for sale, will be visiting in roughly an hour or so's time. Do not have prices, but it doesn't seem that much for them on another site in Somerset West.
Any of you want some? lemme know approx sizes and quantities? They might not have the exact sizes you guys might want, but i'll get the closest too what it is you's might want.
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lemme know when you at Leeukop testing Tony
Will probably pop in on Monday morning...
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was also considering replacing the side cover of the corvalus with the mag top left :hnthnt: , previous post, that way i can cast a at least a 1 kg :krpr: :craz: :nuts: for live bait :hyst: :rotfl
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ok, tried the office and there's a kazillion HD's who must meet the :nail: , but the bloke is very sick and not at the office, so i searched for a supplier in Pta, as I get lost South of Olifantsfontein Rd, with a GPS even the ones they factory install in Merc's. Found one and here's a pic of the Rare and Neo mag's they have for sale, will be visiting in roughly an hour or so's time. Do not have prices, but it doesn't seem that much for them on another site in Somerset West.
Any of you want some? lemme know approx sizes and quantities? They might not have the exact sizes you guys might want, but i'll get the closest too what it is you's might want.
Henk... get me some small buttons roughly 5-6mm diameter, about 10 pleeease! Not more than 2mm thick? Thanks bru!
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Cool, no probs
Reefs 10 : 5/6mmD x 2mmT
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nice job Reefs.
so in short one needs :
2x plates
2x magnets
strong bonding/glue
glue the plates to the spool and attacd the magnets onto that and bobs ur uncle
is it really that easy?
Yup. Did mine in about half an hour! You just need to make sure that the magnet doesn't touch the spool once it's in place.
I'm not sure if the 2 tiny magnets will be strong enough, but there is room on the glued plates to pop in another 2 if necessary. Only time will tell...
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BTW, for those that perhaps want custm thicknesses and don't mind the ungly tool marks that DIY normaly leaves, I see they have some that is rod/cylindrical, perhaps one or two of those, then you could cut it to your precise thickness required.
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The mod I did on my BG 40 was on the gear side. It is actually easier to do here (and quick), just not as adjustable as on the 'clicker' plate due to space issues. If using two magnets, make sure they are reverse polarity as the 'effect' is greater. You really don't want too much resistance, just enough for your casting style.
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Spoke to the sales person, got some indicative pricing:
5mm or 6mm x 2mm discs R2.16
10mm x 2mm discs R2.46
there are some sizes in between but yeah this was just for info.
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Spoke to the sales person, got some indicative pricing:
5mm or 6mm x 2mm discs R2.16
10mm x 2mm discs R2.46
there are some sizes in between but yeah this was just for info.
Henk, get me 10 of each please! You're a mensch! Don't mind if they're 2.5-3mm thick either. Maybe a selection of different thicknesses.
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nice job Reefs.
so in short one needs :
2x plates
2x magnets
strong bonding/glue
glue the plates to the spool and attacd the magnets onto that and bobs ur uncle
is it really that easy?
NOT the spool !!!!
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nice job Reefs.
so in short one needs :
2x plates
2x magnets
strong bonding/glue
glue the plates to the spool and attacd the magnets onto that and bobs ur uncle
is it really that easy?
NOT the spool !!!!
:shk Jeepers well spotted! Ya NOT the spool! Glue to the side plate.
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lol thanx homie... i meant to say the side plate...eish
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lemme know when you at Leeukop testing Tony
Will probably pop in on Monday morning...
Wont be around Tony...
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lemme know when you at Leeukop testing Tony
Will probably pop in on Monday morning...
Wont be around Tony...
Geez I hate braggers.... :crzy
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Spoke to the sales person, got some indicative pricing:
5mm or 6mm x 2mm discs R2.16
10mm x 2mm discs R2.46
there are some sizes in between but yeah this was just for info.
Henk, get me 10 of each please! You're a mensch! Don't mind if they're 2.5-3mm thick either. Maybe a selection of different thicknesses.
Kay, choon U what an' all, i'm vying to that pozie now, raait, what I'll do raait, is get some extra's (diffrint saaises) raait. So U want 5 or 6mm D x 2 or 2.5 or 3mm T (10) and the 10mm D also (10) Raait? so that is (20) an' all an' all? The extras (Sizes in between the specified), I'll get some in pairs of two, is that right for you?
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from looking at the pic on their site, it seems there aren't many thicknesses and diameters between the 5 and the 10, anyhow, will see, will get a collection of them, i always need to stick something to the fridge of hold up some sort of line, wire, lure hanging from a needle getting paint dry in the "worx" so the ones that you don't want won't go to waste, and I mean a R2 something a pop, no issue!
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Raait !!!
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Raait !!!
kassam!
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Raait , what i'll do is pop in at L.K monday , Henk , maybe i'll also get some of those 5/6mm D and 2mm T magnets if you can will be grand an all.. :tkx: , wanna try this on a Saltist 40... :hnthnt: .... hou my bier vas , check hierdie move ... :rotfl
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Reefz 7 seconds sounds good, thats +- what free spool I get on both my reels, set on full one is 4 seconds and other 3 seconds
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Raait , what i'll do is pop in at L.K monday , Henk , maybe i'll also get some of those 5/6mm D and 2mm T magnets if you can will be grand an all.. :tkx: , wanna try this on a Saltist 40... :hnthnt: .... hou my bier vas , check hierdie move ... :rotfl
Oooooh eh eh, .......... eh eh, listen how many should I get you? 10 or 4 or? (not sure how they are packed, perhaps the only come in tens, (HOMIE STAY AWAY from this comment) just wanna make sure I don't get too few or way too much, too much is ok, i can use the extras for when i make and break things in the garage.
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Ok make it 6 of those small ones . :tkx:
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kay will do
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Raait , what i'll do is pop in at L.K monday , Henk , maybe i'll also get some of those 5/6mm D and 2mm T magnets if you can will be grand an all.. :tkx: , wanna try this on a Saltist 40... :hnthnt: .... hou my bier vas , check hierdie move ... :rotfl
The Saltists will be very easy to mag, there is a big recess where the spool fits into the Pinion gear bearing. LOTS of space to work...
Definitely gonna try them too...
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c360/ooeric/fishing/DSC00060.jpg)
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Ok... I'll take 10 of the most popular size Henk.
Thanks boet
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Ok the million $ question , are we going to remove the brake blocks or not ..?
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Ok... I'll take 10 of the most popular size Henk.
Thanks boet
kay will get you some too
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Ok the million $ question , are we going to remove the brake blocks or not ..?
That's what I'm going to try out on Monday.
1 mag, 2 mags, 4mags, with brakes, without... who knows?
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Gonna get myself one of these - no more overwinds!!
Wonder if it will fit on my Saltist30?
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Brake blocks out...you won't know the effect or set the distance to the spool effectively with them in.
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Gonna get myself one of these - no more overwinds!!
Wonder if it will fit on my Saltist30?
Stuff drilling into the side plate , just remove the side plate and Q bond the magnet to the frame ...
:hyst: :hyst: :hyst:
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Gonna get myself one of these - no more overwinds!!
Wonder if it will fit on my Saltist30?
Stuff drilling into the side plate , just remove the side plate and Q bond the magnet to the frame ...
:hyst: :hyst: :hyst:
:rotfl :hyst: :hyst:
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Having used both static and adjustable mags since the mid 80's the following may help those trying to decide what to do.
Adjustable mags on the face of it would seem to have a number of benefits, but I think the reality is that the majority of fishermen using them finish up setting them in one position and that's all they use. May as well use a static mag in that case.
The adjustable mag needs a hole drilled into the side plate or the clicker is removed and the mag unit put in it's place. Dispensing with the clicker ,especially for those that night fish is a good way to get spooled. I speak from experience!
Adjustable mags (knobbies) stick out from the side plate and can be prone to damage , especially if you fish off the rocks. There is always the chance that you will accidentally move your mag setting which usually ends up with an overrun. The original Penn 525 mag with the slide bar was notorious for this.
The idea of adjusting your mag while the lead is in flight is tempting but the distance gain when fishing is in reality very minimal and in my opinion not worth the risk. It's ok in a casting competition where you are looking for every advantage , but not so good in the real world.
Usually with a monomag unit they tend to go from plenty of breaking to an overrun very quickly, so what you end up with is a fairly narrow range of usefulness.
So, I think that a well set up static mag does everything you want. Control, ease of use, freedom from damage, ease of installation, and keeps your reel re-saleable if that is important to you. If you determine what the true clearance between the spool and the frame is, you can experiment with a variety of magnet sizes both in diameter and thickness as well as using a number of magnets. That way you can find the ideal (for you) setting of minimum braking giving you the control for the vast majority of conditions you fish in.
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Excellent advice Nigel... thanks for your input and experience! :+ cred:
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Very true Nigel, both my reels are adjustable but once tuned I dont change it
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Interesting stuff !! I had my Saltist 40 modified with mags, just need to test it now! He overcame the problem of moving the magnets by making a "plate" which is epoxied to the side plate. This allows one to move the magnets different distances from the spool...
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Hi guys
i have a question. If one put the mags on the RHS of the fathom wont the magnets play a factor on the gears etc on the inside of the RHS? Wont the metal parts build up some magnetic field?
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An interesting subject this is. I'll try static mag the trini 50 as well and see what benefits one can derive there-of (going an extra mile) :-)
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Kay, got the mags yesterday, AND GOT LOST, TWICE!!!!!!!! :rotfl Told you's anything South of Olifantsfontein = LOST!
Anyhow, I had a slight medical emergency at home last night but managed to at least take the pics. Good thing as I have forgotten how to do a tut (that is one post and not several posts) so please, lemme know and I can do it and post it, please guys, Isivuba, Reefs, Homes etc etc.
PS: The Corvalus cannot be magged with an adjustable knobby thingy magick, no space on the LHS plate (Inside gears, etc etc) and it is curved, making a 90degree installation impossible, as the only place that can be done is right in the centre where the spool's shaft rests in the bearing, so that is a no-go. The RHS plate, well, no space outside and in, will show in pics of tut.
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Also as Nigel mentioned, one hardly ever change the settings once it is tuned, so I will opt for the stat mag too.
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Kay, got the mags yesterday, AND GOT LOST, TWICE!!!!!!!! :rotfl Told you's anything South of Olifantsfontein = LOST!
Anyhow, I had a slight medical emergency at home last night but managed to at least take the pics. Good thing as I have forgotten how to do a tut (that is one post and not several posts) so please, lemme know and I can do it and post it, please guys, Isivuba, Reefs, Homes etc etc.
PS: The Corvalus cannot be magged with an adjustable knobby thingy magick, no space on the LHS plate (Inside gears, etc etc) and it is curved, making a 90degree installation impossible, as the only place that can be done is right in the centre where the spool's shaft rests in the bearing, so that is a no-go. The RHS plate, well, no space outside and in, will show in pics of tut.
Awesome Henk! You gonna come visit us at Leeuwkop on Monday morning early? Just to see how the magged reels cast?! :hnthnt:
How to insert images etc.... http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?board=51.0 (http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?board=51.0)
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Ok so my intelligence on these things is like my height..... quite low!
What advantage does magnetic breaking have over a) brake blocks
b) tightening the cast control knob
:dunno:
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The resistance created by the magnetic field is far smpother. Brake blocks work, but only take effect at higher speed. They can stick. The cast control is really not as effective. Ultimatelythe blocks and cast control create resistance by friction, which generates heat. The lubrication affects resistance.
Nothing but proximety affect the resistance created by the magnets.
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Kay, got the mags yesterday, AND GOT LOST, TWICE!!!!!!!! :rotfl Told you's anything South of Olifantsfontein = LOST!
Anyhow, I had a slight medical emergency at home last night but managed to at least take the pics. Good thing as I have forgotten how to do a tut (that is one post and not several posts) so please, lemme know and I can do it and post it, please guys, Isivuba, Reefs, Homes etc etc.
PS: The Corvalus cannot be magged with an adjustable knobby thingy magick, no space on the LHS plate (Inside gears, etc etc) and it is curved, making a 90degree installation impossible, as the only place that can be done is right in the centre where the spool's shaft rests in the bearing, so that is a no-go. The RHS plate, well, no space outside and in, will show in pics of tut.
Awesome Henk! You gonna come visit us at Leeuwkop on Monday morning early? Just to see how the magged reels cast?! :hnthnt:
How to insert images etc.... http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?board=51.0 (http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?board=51.0)
Tony I'd Love to, but not too sure it will be early see bold above + the N1 parking lot is kind of cumbersome that time of day. What time are you guys planning to be there? and more importantly, what time do you's plan to leave? And even more important, where and when do I get the mags to you guys, this goes for our Height challenged friend (Not HP, the one with the PINK Jeep with the white dashboard fur and the swinging matching dice hanging from the rear view mirror) and that other Pike fishy bloke, :rotfl Mike-Pike?
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Ermmm Monday is a public holiday bro. No traffic at all. You''ve been to Lleeuwkop before... i even have the photos to prove it. :hnthnt:
That's when we can take over the magnets and start playing.
I'll try be there 8.30 til about 1ish.
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Its ceres... not pink and that's mink fur....
Lol..
Henk, if you do make it to LK, please leave my magnets with reefs or mike... and let me know what I owe you bro... I will only be leaving Kzn that afternoon
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Ermmm Monday is a public holiday bro. No traffic at all. You''ve been to Lleeuwkop before... i even have the photos to prove it. :hnthnt:
That's when we can take over the magnets and start playing.
I'll try be there 8.30 til about 1ish.
Oh dear, seems I even got lost in the calendar :hehe: , no true, I was there once before, think it was a social for the other site as I remember I came home from that and stuck the blue bumper sticker to the Cruisers tow/step bar. So I might get lost again :rotfl
Will be there if I'm not going to hunt for some greenies, but just as a precautionary measure, I am off to Kempton some time today, and could always just catch up with one of you in Roodepoort/Melville/Rivonia/Boksburg by the sea or somewhere south of Olifantsfontein as I'm pretty sure I 'll be driving through some if not All of these suburbs at some point either going to or coming from Kempton
@ Homie, no probs Bud, will do and will try to remember that it's not Pink and that it's Mink and not that cheap Marabastad (made in China) copied fur lawn!
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Indeed. Just be there early!! (bat
In the pic: Vlakvark, LGF, Homie's connection.
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Shyte... I was at that social !
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Who is who on the pic?
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Who is who on the pic?
Would love to see the responses? :hnthnt:
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Who is who on the pic?
Would love to see the responses? :hnthnt:
Ok, I'll be very polite....
Vlakvark, LGF, Emperor, (owner of C-line)
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Who is who on the pic?
Would love to see the responses? :hnthnt:
Ok, I'll be very polite....
Vlakvark, LGF, Emperor, (owner of C-line)
Where's the :yipee: in that?
PS: I have been sitting here, lemme see for the last 2hrs and 13mins, typing up the Tut, then I wanted to insert the 1st pic.................. buuuuuuuuuuuuuuuut forgot to save duh :shk swr duh duh duh duh duh duh
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Henk, type out your text in Notepad first. Save it, then copy, paste it to your post. Then insert the pics in between the text...
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Where's the :yipee: in that?
Ok I editted the post with the pic... :hehe:
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Ey....
Seems like the magnetic eddies around your brain needs some rapid and repeated hard contact with some rare earth rocks to correct it ...
:hehe:
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Ey....
Seems like the magnetic eddies around your brain needs some rapid and repeated hard contact with some rare earth rocks to correct it ...
:hehe:
It's called CVAS ("Crushed Valium And Stroh") :yipee: :hnthnt: :happ: :FST:
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LGF... let us know if you're definitely coming thru to LKop and what time. I need to know whether I need to cut more magnets smaller or if I can get the larnie ones from you to test out.
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Reefs, bud I have an opportunity to go fish for the 3rd time this year and it is tentative for Monday, but I honestly don't mind to perhaps drop it at say your or Mike's place seeing as the Jeep is in Durbs, so please lemme know where and how late I can drop them off for you guys tomorrow? If we cannot arrange for say tomorrow then I will have to pop in @ LK on Monday, as I out to Europe end of next week so it has to happen soon!
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For Mike... this is how I did my Saltists...
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I feel terrible, that I have not finished the tut yet, will do my utmost this morning, BUT this is important:
Placement of the mags should be considered with the spool's shaft in mind and not the side wall of the spool, the magnets have absolutely no effect on the spool itself but rather on the shaft. Have taken pics to illustrate.
Also the magnets are rather brittle, not an issue as such but because they are so powerfull, they tend to reach some speed in the process of coming together (even when you hold them in two hands) the force is strong enough that if you do not conscientiously (spelling) hold onto them tighter that they will actually rip out of one or both hands and snap together, and this is a problem. Because they are brittle, they tend to either chip or completely crack (one did) so, please keep their strength in mind when you's will work with them.
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This is incorrect. The placement has everything to do with the spool, not the shaft. The 'nobby' arrangements on the tournament reels are as distant from the shaft as possible and only affect the spool.
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So, theoretically this will not work on Bakelite spools? Bud, if you follow LGF's advice and forming an eddie on the shaft and not the spool, this can then be done on any reel. His explanation makes most sense. Works on the same principle as a starter motor on a car when forming the eddie on the shaft and not the spool.
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This is incorrect. The placement has everything to do with the spool, not the shaft. The 'nobby' arrangements on the tournament reels are as distant from the shaft as possible and only affect the spool.
Ok just let me correct my own ommission, It does not have an effect on the spools' side wall or spool itself, if the spool is made of aluminium, as aluminium have no magnetic properties, the spools' shaft however is made of steel, be it stainless or other, it does have magnetic properties
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lemme see if I can quickly load the pic proving this.
These magnets are really strong and the smallest of then 5mmDx1.5mmT will react with each other over a flat distance (on my wooden desk at work) of up to 13cm's.
In the pic, it is right next to an aluminium mold, nothing!, but it is able to get stuck to a screwdriver.
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aluminium is not magnetic it's conductive, there has to be motion involved to generate the eddy currents, if that magnet was big enough and you had to drop it onto the chunk of aluminium it would sort of cushion itself against the fall
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aluminium is not magnetic it's conductive, there has to be motion involved to generate the eddy currents
Ok, I hear you. Would that then be the same for copper, wrt to it being conductive (not too sure if it behaves the magnetically the same as aluminium)
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Eddy Currents, Magnetic Braking and Lenz's Law (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otu-KV3iH_I#)
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correct
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu1uRvErM80 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yu1uRvErM80)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5BeFoz3Ypo4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5BeFoz3Ypo4)
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Some more info regarding eddy currents and the braking effect.
How eddy currents are made What if the conductor you're moving through the magnetic field isn't a wire that allows the electricity to flow neatly away? You still get electric currents, but instead of flowing off somewhere, they swirl about inside the material. These are what we call eddy currents. They're electric currents generated inside a conductor by a magnetic field that can't flow away so they swirl around instead, dissipating their energy as heat.
One of the interesting things about eddy currents is that they're not completely random: they flow in a particular way to try to stop whatever it is that causes them. This is an example of another bit of electromagnetism called Lenz's law (it follows on from another law called the conservation of energy (http://www.explainthatstuff.com/conservation-of-energy.html), and it's built into the four equations (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maxwell's_equations) summarizing electromagnetism that were set out by James Clerk Maxwell).
Here's an example. Suppose you drop a coin-shaped magnet down the inside of a plastic (http://www.explainthatstuff.com/plastics.html) pipe. It might take a half second to get to the bottom. Now repeat the same experiment with a copper pipe and you'll find your magnet takes much longer (maybe three or four seconds) to make exactly the same journey. Eddy currents are the reason. When the magnet falls through the pipe, you have a magnetic field moving through a stationary conductor (which is exactly the same as a conductor moving through a stationary magnetic field). That creates electric currents in the conductor—eddy currents, in fact. Now we know from the laws of electromagnetism that when a current flows in a conductor, it produces a magnetic field. So the eddy currents generate their own magnetic field. Lenz's law tells us that this magnetic field will try to oppose its cause, which is the falling magnet. So the eddy currents and the second magnetic field produce an upward force on the magnet that tries to stop it from falling. That's why it falls more slowly. In other words, the eddy currents produce a braking effect on the falling magnet.
It's because eddy currents always oppose whatever causes them that we can use them as brakes in vehicles, engines, and other machines.
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And some more ...
How does an eddy current brake stop something moving? Suppose we have a railroad train that's actually a huge solid block of copper mounted on wheels. Let's say it's hurtling along at high speed and we want to stop it. We could apply friction brakes to the wheels—or we could stop it with eddy currents. How? What if we put a giant magnet next to the track so the train had to pass nearby. As the copper approached the magnet, eddy currents would be generated (or "induced") inside the copper, which would produce their own magnetic field. Eddy currents in different parts of the copper would try to work in different ways. As the front part of the train approached the magnet, eddy currents in that bit of the copper would try to generate a repulsive magnetic field (to slow down the copper's approach to the magnet). As the front part passed by, slowing down, the currents there would reverse, generating an attractive magnetic field that tried to pull the train back again (again, slowing it down). The copper would heat up as the eddy currents swirled inside it, gaining the kinetic energy lost by the train as it slowed down. It might sound like a strange way to stop a train, but it really does work. You'll find the proof of it in many rollercoaster (http://www.explainthatstuff.com/rollercoasters.html) cars, which use magnetic brakes like this, mounted on the side of the track, to slow them down.
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Last one courtsey of Wikipedia. the only difference here is that we are doing is keeping the magnet stationary and the spool is revolving .
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@ BAUMANNATOR humbly beg your pardon sry and here and now concede that You ARE right :corrct: and I was WRONG. duh Please forgive me for not believing you. :blush:
I did not understand :cnfzd the :toppie: processes regarding the movement (of conductive, non-magnetic material), which then generates the "Eddy's" that then causes the secondary magnetic fileds in the conductive material which then acts in an opposing manner to the initial magnetic fields. Now I do (I Hope?), thanx to Chritosch, Sparky and Mike-Pike, thanx Guys and a huge " :resp: ful" sorry to BAUMANNATOR again and to all those, Hooch, that I confused with my lack of understanding? :blush: sry Guys?
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no worries, we all learn something new every day, takes quite a bit of imagination to actually believe how this principle works
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Yep took me a while to get my head around this concept as well , invisible things worry me ... :hyst:
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@ BAUMANNATOR humbly beg your pardon sry and here and now concede that You ARE right :corrct: and I was WRONG. duh Please forgive me for not believing you. :blush:
I did not understand :cnfzd the :toppie: processes regarding the movement (of conductive, non-magnetic material), which then generates the "Eddy's" that then causes the secondary magnetic fileds in the conductive material which then acts in an opposing manner to the initial magnetic fields. Now I do (I Hope?), thanx to Chritosch, Sparky and Mike-Pike, thanx Guys and a huge " :resp: ful" sorry to BAUMANNATOR again and to all those, Hooch, that I confused with my lack of understanding? :blush: sry Guys?
Henk, its do able on the shaft or the spool. With bakelite you can do it on the shaft and on the new modern reels do it from the inside of the housing. :corrct:
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@ BAUMANNATOR humbly beg your pardon sry and here and now concede that You ARE right :corrct: and I was WRONG. duh Please forgive me for not believing you. :blush:
I did not understand :cnfzd the :toppie: processes regarding the movement (of conductive, non-magnetic material), which then generates the "Eddy's" that then causes the secondary magnetic fileds in the conductive material which then acts in an opposing manner to the initial magnetic fields. Now I do (I Hope?), thanx to Chritosch, Sparky and Mike-Pike, thanx Guys and a huge " :resp: ful" sorry to BAUMANNATOR again and to all those, Hooch, that I confused with my lack of understanding? :blush: sry Guys?
Henk, its do able on the shaft or the spool. With bakelite you can do it on the shaft and on the new modern reels do it from the inside of the housing. :corrct:
Ok that makes sense too, I just completely missed the whole point of the aluminium spools and the Eddy's generated.
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LGF, no need to apologise. I was amped when I first got into trying this on a reel. I see quite a few people are getting excited by the possibilities....that is why I shared my mod ...to get people to think out of the box.
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LGF, no need to apologise. I was amped when I first got into trying this on a reel. I see quite a few people are getting excited by the possibilities....that is why I shared my mod ...to get people to think out of the box.
Thanx for being so kind, it defs tells a lot about your character! Now before I get it wrong again, the whole idea concerning the placement of the mags, I would presume would then to focus on the area where the highest speed of the spool wall would reach (as far away from the shaft as possible) and secondly to place them as close to the surface of the spool wall as possible, without actually making contact? Anyhow, that is what I got for the 15 or so odd clips I watched today. Is that correct or am I off the wagon and into the field chasing squirrels again :rotfl
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100%. The proximety is critical, and the effect of only a small amount of adjustment has a large effect. Now stop worrying about where you thought wrong, at least you tested your theory, otherwise you would of been frustrated trying to get results.
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Tested :hehe: , if only you knew, took plastic spools, stuck alu tape over them, mounted that to a small electric motor, speeded that up, had magnets in various configurations at all places, then switched the motor off and timed it, hmmmmm then timed the motor without the mags, hmmmmm no diffs, all I can think of is the alu tape was way too thin to have been able to allow for the creation of any decent eddy's to fight back.
Yeah, I know I should stop worrying, but it is my nature, got a nice FM radio when I was some pre-schooler, got a moerse hiding the following day, as I had stripped it to see how it works, my parents were not impressed. Tooooooooooooo inquisitive ? Cannot leave something until I have figured out!
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Right, so onto the Trini 30...
Using Bauman's logic of making things adjuastable, I used a nut and bolt. The nut has a flange on it, made things more stable. I ground the nut down at an angle to compensate for the curve of the side plate, and cut the bolt shorter so that it fits inside the spool. Glued the flanged nut on, and screwed the bolt in, now it's adjustable! Magnet fits on top of the bolt head.
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The clearance...
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Reefs, looks like you are very busy!!!!!
Listen I saw Mike-Pike this morning at That Rib Place and bumped into Etienne too, anyhow dropped the magnets off, so he has yours and that Jeep Owner's too :rotfl
Gonna try and do the tut the 3rd time now........ 1st time I forgot to save, 2nd internet "eh eh got some Gov. infection" and refused to do anything"
So here goes the 3rd try.
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Nice job Reefz, you should add some teflon tape to the bolt thread so it doesnt shake loose and changes your setting.
Like the normal thread/plumbing tape, just so there is a little bit of resistance on the bolt when turning it
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Yup all the grinding that bolt took, has made the thread quite stiff and resistant to turning, so it shouldn't be a problem.
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Looking forward to Mondays R&D .... :shk YOIKS .... the magnets Henk got us are strong and i mean strong , amazing ... will bring them with + i got some nice small round washers that can be epoxied onto the reel to place the magnets on , of varying thickness so as to get the magnet distance from the rotating spool pretty close or at an effective distance from the spool i'll bring em all with as well .
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Mike, Tony and What's his name, uhhmmmm OH yeah Mr Homith the III, remember to try and not let those little buggers snap together, takes some getting use to, I broke a couple, they are rather brittle, especially if they snap together, not as bad when they snap onto a piece of metal
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/MGalleryItem.php?id=2173)
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PS: did the tut :frid , Guys please feel free to criticise or to add or anything.
http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=17731.0 (http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=17731.0)
Please Give :+ cred: to BAUMANNATOR, he introduced us to this interesting concept :resp: :bow: .
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Yup all the grinding that bolt took, has made the thread quite stiff and resistant to turning, so it shouldn't be a problem.
:win:
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Hi,can you do this to any multiplier or only some..?And after it's been magged,don't you need to control the spool with your thumb at all,or is there still a little breaking needed with ones' thumb?If possible I'd like to do my Fathom 30 and Torium 30... :dunno: just don't know where to find these rare earth mags here in Mosselbay area yet...lastly,if you use say a 4 ounce sinker while fishing and later decide to use a 6 ounce for example,will the maggs handle that or do they then need to be bigger or does the force/eddys stay the same in controlling the spools' speed...? :blush: :dunno:
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Hi,can you do this to any multiplier or only some..?And after it's been magged,don't you need to control the spool with your thumb at all,or is there still a little breaking needed with ones' thumb?If possible I'd like to do my Fathom 30 and Torium 30... :dunno: just don't know where to find these rare earth mags here in Mosselbay area yet...lastly,if you use say a 4 ounce sinker while fishing and later decide to use a 6 ounce for example,will the maggs handle that or do they then need to be bigger or does the force/eddys stay the same in controlling the spools' speed...? :blush: :dunno:
Valid questions Lofty. I am also interested
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Looks like you can do it to any multiplier that has enough space. Depends on how much magnetic charge you apply.
More magnetic charge=less thumb and vise versa, depends on what you want, if you want leka eazzzzy relaxing days
at the beach like me you need lotsa mag lol. Found it can be as simple as only touching the spool to stop it when the
sinker hits the water...to tap the spool once when the sinker leaves and then hits the water...too leaving my thumb on
the spool with almost no pressure. Thats the only upside of factory fitted mag assist
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1 ounce difference in sinker weight shouldnt be very noticeable, muscle memory will probably thumb the reel anyways ;)
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Hi,can you do this to any multiplier or only some..?And after it's been magged,don't you need to control the spool with your thumb at all,or is there still a little breaking needed with ones' thumb?If possible I'd like to do my Fathom 30 and Torium 30... :dunno: just don't know where to find these rare earth mags here in Mosselbay area yet...lastly,if you use say a 4 ounce sinker while fishing and later decide to use a 6 ounce for example,will the maggs handle that or do they then need to be bigger or does the force/eddys stay the same in controlling the spools' speed...? :blush: :dunno:
This can be done to any multiplier reel in principle as long as the spool is made of a metal.
If your magging is on the spot, then in theory, (our bass bait casters in practice and reality on e set correctly can be coasted with force without any additional force being applied) there would be no need for any pressure from your thumb.
If you have a problem getting these magnets, let me see if I can find the online site for a company located in Somerset something, not too sure, but you could order from them, otherwise we could get you some and courier it to you.
If you intend on using different weights, I would suggest that you install the steel magnet mounting plate and then test which magnet/s and in what configuration/s works for say each of the weights you often use and then just swop them out when you change the weights.
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http://www.magnetech.co.za/ (http://www.magnetech.co.za/)
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http://www.magnetech.co.za/ (http://www.magnetech.co.za/)
Thanx Sparky, Lofty, here's another distributor, although they are in Midrand, might still be useful if you don't come right with the previous one.
http://www.modernmagnetics.co.za/ (http://www.modernmagnetics.co.za/)
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Does someone know of a very good ointment for Tony and Mike's shoulders and arms? :hnthnt: They're probably going to need it, as it seems they're still swopping magnets and casting their arms off :rotfl
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thanks for the links,what would you say is the most common sizes/thicknesses to look at for now...?I'd say between 5-10mm x 2-5 mm thickness...? :dunno:
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Ok, so the verdict is they work!!
However, it takes a LOT of playing around to fine tune the reel. I took too many reels with me - too many options, but they definitely work. Put 2 magnets in my Fathom and couldn't get over 50m!! :shk Took 1 out, still too much brake force. What I worked out is that it's not so much the size of the magnet that makes the difference, but the proximity to the spool - the closer to the spool, the greater the braking force. So, with the Fathom, I put 2 thinner magnets in, (further away from the spool), and eventually got things to roughly where they should be. Still not prefectly satisfied, as I believe I'm still losing distance due to the force of the magnets. Need to a lot more fine tuning...
I also did work on the Trini 30, Saltist 50.. Body tired from hundreds of casts... eish.
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Reefs at least you got to practice your cast :hehe:
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So,the way I understand your findings are,that one shouldn't even bother with thicker mags as their breaking force on the spool will be too much,whereas thinner mags further away from the spool has enough breaking force on the spool...? :dunno: Are mags with thickness of say 5mm stronger than mags of 2mm thickness in same diameter,should be,right?Should one then rather play with the thickness of the metal mounting plate for the mag,than to put thicker mags in?
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Those sizes would be fine, in fact those were the exact sizes we had in mind although we couldn't get all the sizes but a couple of each of those would be all you need.
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So,the way I understand your findings are,that one shouldn't even bother with thicker mags as their breaking force on the spool will be too much,whereas thinner mags further away from the spool has enough breaking force on the spool...? :dunno: Are mags with thickness of say 5mm stronger than mags of 2mm thickness in same diameter,should be,right?Should one then rather play with the thickness of the metal mounting plate for the mag,than to put thicker mags in?
I think the only size you will need in magging a reel are the 2-2.5mm thick magnets. Those 5 mm thick magnets will only work if they are spaced well away from the spool. In the Fathom, a 1mm glued base plate, with 2x separate 2mm thick magnets worked, only just, maybe still a bit strong. Whereas 2x 2.5mm magnets were wayyyy too strong, because they were closer to the spool. With the 2.5mm magnets, I couldn't get past 50m, with the cast control fully open!
So yes the trick is to increase the size of the base plate, rather than put extra mags in.
With the bigger reels, Saltist 50 etc, the same size magnets are less powerful, so need to play around with those spacings still..
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thanks Reefs,that's what I gathered from reading your findings...so there's no need to go buy 5mm thick magnets,just get some 2mm mags...maby even thinner too :win: :tkx:
p.s:did you only use one weight sinker today,if so what weight was that?Would one need stronger mags if casting heavier sinkers..?
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:lolo: Now you know why I settled on the adjustable option. Proximety is everything-
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I did not find the weight of the sinker made a huge difference. The speed of the spool creates the eddy currents that the magnetic field reacts to. Set the mag to the lightest sinker weight,
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I did not find the weight of the sinker made a huge difference. The speed of the spool creates the eddy currents that the magnetic field reacts to. Set the mag to the lightest sinker weight,
thankyou,I thought it might've made a difference... :blush: time to get some mags and test this thing out...
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:lolo: Now you know why I settled on the adjustable option. Proximety is everything-
Yup, the light went on somewhere round about mid-morning... :idea:
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REEFMAN, I found that the larger spools are better controlled with wider magnets for increased surface area. Now you willll understand why I qas so adamant thhat guys using braid on conventionals will really benefit from this mod. You really can put the ' brakes' on a spool to prevent the whiplash you get with braid.
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Just a video I found :hnthnt:
Magnetic control conversion for CT multiplier reels (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edzsfEaj1gk#)
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Hi guys thought i would share my saltist pics.
Magnets from magnetech, found also that the closer to the shaft,the less the braking force.
I manged to test them and am really impressed with the result.
I used a stanley knife blade,I outsourced some stainless plate cutt to size to fit into the space of the saltist,just waiting for it then I can collect it.
Found magnetech quite helpful.
Measuredthe clearance between the spoool and frame pocket to be around 4mm if it can help anyone.
Thanx this great thread.
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Guys so what is the overall verdict? Does one get greater distance? Can one whack it with confidence? Does the mags really assist to prevent / minimize over-winds? Overall is it worth the trouble? :dunno:
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Hi guys - I'm new to this forum, but certainly not new to the topic of magnetic cast control systems and have posted about it on other forums before.
About two years ago, I went through the same process as many of you here, to develop an magbrake system for my little modified 1530, but wanted a system that required no drilling of holes in the sideplates of my reel(s), that retained the clicker, had no bits sticking out and leaving the reel looking stock standard from the outside.
As the reel might be directly be exposed to saltwater during wading or "swimming" during reef fishing, the materials had to be as saltwater resistant as possible AND I wanted a system that would look professional, neat and a modification that would actually add to the value of the reel for later possible resale purposes, even on expensive reels like the Trini and Trini A's and not lower the value because of a home made appearance.
On top of this, I wanted my system to be fully adjustable, with a wide range of adjustability in small increments, if at all possible !
This was a tall order, but after much research, material and design testing and many hours of casting, I developed just such a system for most models and sizes of the popular brand multiplier reels on the South African rock and surf scene.
Will post some pics and tell you a little more just now ...
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:welc: Cuban Cigar
Looking forward to your contributions.
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It is called the "MAG-IT" Magnetic Cast control System and is available in a wide range of models, covering most popular brands, models and sizes.
This is the model for the Saltist BG and older Silver generation with one model covering the 20/30 sizes and another, the 35/40/50's.
Situated in the RH side of the frame, as the left sideplate is very "busy & cluttered" with the clicker, cntrf flange and ring already crowded in there.
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The magplate was chosen to be of substantial size, as this allows for full adjustability - yes it's fully adjustable, by moving the magnet(s) to the outer radius of the reel, the braking effect acts on the larger radius, providing more potent braking and as more aluminium comes through the magnetic field, the efect is also more.
Additionally, as the spool sidewalls/flanges are dished, they come closer to the magnet(s), the further you slide them outwards.
The plates are CNC lasercut from a special marinegrade stainless alloy, that is also higuly magnetic to provide a secure connection for the magnets to adhere to.
It was easy to find marinegrade and easy to find magnetic stainless, but a real battle to find this one with the right bias between in this case higher corrosion resistance than #316 and still highly magnetic and then in all the different gauges to accommodate the different clearances in different reels.
Here is a pic of a single magnet fitted to the plate, all lubed up in marine grease for additional saltwater protection and ready to go !
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Here is the smaller model magplate fitted to the Saltist BG 30 - on the topic of magnets, please remember that not all "rare earth" magnets are created equal !
I only use the "normal" neudenium magnets when I'm forced to by some reels having very limited clearance between the spool and frame and the special highly corrosion resistant permanent magnets that I prefer, are too thick or powerful to operate at that short range.
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This is the little reel that started it all - my modded 1530 !
The same magplate fits the 1530/2040 and Speedmaster IV and now sadly discontinued narrow spool Speedy III !
In this case, fitted inside the leftside sideplate behind the clicker ring.
This position allows plenty clearance between magnets and spool, this is why I used six magnets in three stacks of two on top of one another in the innermost position - this allows a wide range of adjustments with small increments, as you slide the magnets outwards to gain more control.
The dots on the magnets indicate polarity and i fit them next to one another with alternate polarity to prevent them from fighting one another for space on the magplate - when fitted like this they uctually stabilise each other.
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Same one, greased up and ready to go fishing.
Just for interest sake - I have had one of these special magnets ( together with other types), in a oversaturated solution of saltwater for around two years now and despite degreasing it with benzine beforehand to create a worst case scenario, it only goes grey/black and does not rust/pit like most other permanent magnets that are powerful enough to do this job.
You can keep them looking good, for a very long time if you wipe them and the magplate, with a bit of ReelX before coating them and the plate with a saltwater resistant marine grease.
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This unit covers the Torium 16/20/30 and is fitted in similar position as the Tld/Speedys, but with a larger magplate, you have an even larger range to adjust.
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With shark season here, one should not forget about the big boys - here is the Torium 50 in the first of two frame-mould configurations around - this is the one-piece magplate for the one split 4 ways.
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As can be seen on the previous pic, I chose to do the Torium 50 on the opposite side, as we have enough space there and with less clearance, you can use fewer magnets and save on cost - these are the same super flat magnets used on the Finnor OFC and Fathom.
This is the split unit.
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Despite the smaller split plate, it still takes four magnets if needed, with most 50's needing 2 or 3.
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The other "shark slayer" that I see regularly is the previous generation Gold Series Trini 40/50 - this is what the plate look like.
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While looking at the Shimmies - the Trini A is such a beaut, but simply too fast for my casting ability unless I put (like most owners), more than just a bit of pressure on the cast control knob and ride the thumb !
This is not ideal for the sake of the spool bearings and does not make for carefree casting.
After fitment of the magbrake, I back out the cast control knob a bit to allow a small amount of sideways play on the spool, when the clutch lever is pulled back for casting.
Set up like this, you can cast the rod/reel hard and let the spool
run free without thumbing it for max distance without blow-ups.
When the bait/sinker land, you will have to stop the spool again by use of your thumb.
This model cover the 16A/20A/30A.
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With the Trini A's you have to unfortunately take the reel completely apart, as without a sideplate, you have to strip from the handle side and even have to brake down the dragstack, to get to the anti-reverse gear for removal.
The last two inner chassis retaining screws are situated underneath this gear and it's the only way to get the spool out !
Here it is with a single magnet on the plate.
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Some TriniA's want two magnets - I determine this by spinning every single reel I fit, to determine spinrate and set up accordingly - by the time you have done as many as I have, youhould have a pretty good idea of where the sweetspot is and the reel is normally very close to that, making it unnecessary for a long struggle to get it set up.
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For the baby Trini A's 10/14A, the magplate had to be made up with a recess to fit into the compct, small diameter frame, still having enough area to move the magnet up and down.
Same magnet looks huge hear in the compact space.
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And with the magnet on the plate.
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Will show you some more reels later - have to go hit a few golfballs with the kid !
Cheers till later !
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Cuban Cigar thanks for your very informative posts.
Do you "fix" the magnets permanently or do you leave it loose to allow for "fine tuning"
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:welc: Cuban... some awesome work you've done there! Very professional and looks like you've done some serious research... thanks for sharing your knowledge here! :+ cred:
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Cuban Cigar thanks for your very informative posts.
Do you "fix" the magnets permanently or do you leave it loose to allow for "fine tuning"
Hi Charles !
The magnets are only kept in their chosen position by their extreme magnetic force - that is the exact reason why I had to source the material for the stainless magplate so carefully - we need the marinegrade anti corrosion properties for the swimmers and waders amongst us, but we also needed the very strong magnetic properties of the material for the magplate, so that the magnets can adhere to them so strongly, that they cant move when the reel is bumped or even dropped during use.
That way the system remains fully adjustable for the possible later use of a next owner of the reel or on a rod that is vastly different or with a totally different sinker weight or casting style.
Some guys even adjust or add a magnet for night fishing were more severe demands are put yout casting, so as to prevent any possible mishaps !
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:welc: Cuban cigar , some really professional work and R&D , to static magging multipliers ,like the idea of precut plates to fit inside the sideplates , looks like part of the reel and also makes fine tuning with the magnet(s) so much easier , some really great info and insight on what can be done ... (clap)
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Hi guys !
Always nice to contribute to make a positive difference , more so with the things that are special to us!
Now before I get a hiding for showing more Shimmies than Daiwas, I have to come clean and confess that I'm a bit of a "draadsitter" and love both my Daiwa and Shimano reels, so let's look at some more Daiwas.
This is what the magplates for the Grandwaves/SealineSHV /SL50SH look like.
As there are some mould variation, I made a slight radius adjustment to cater for the little almost unseen shelf that some of these reels have.
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Previous pic was how the plate for the 40/50 sizes look - the smaller /30 sized SHV/Gw Daiwas, use exactly the same plate as the BG 20/30 - only difference is that it is mounted flat in the 12o'clock position i.s.o. in the recess of the Saltist BG and older Silver.
Like this ...
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Some TriniA's want two magnets - I determine this by spinning every single reel I fit, to determine spinrate and set up accordingly - by the time you have done as many as I have, youhould have a pretty good idea of where the sweetspot is and the reel is normally very close to that, making it unnecessary for a long struggle to get it set up.
Forgot to post the pics that indicate where in the reel the magplate end up - pics are of a Trini 30A.
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and with a single magnet on the plate ...
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We should not forget about our friends using Finnor OFC's - this is the plate for the 16/20/30 !
Forgot to snap a pic of the Penn Fathom, Quantum Cabo and Penn 545/555 when I dis a couple of them for anglers from the Cape - will rectify that with the next lot !
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:dunno: ...Sorry for my ignorance...still cannot understand why one would do this to a reel......then get a coffee....
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:dunno: ...Sorry for my ignorance...still cannot understand why one would do this to a reel......then get a coffee....
Ok Kent let me tell you why I would do it. I am sort of ambidextrous. I do some things left handed and others right handed. When casting a coffee grinder I cast with the rod over my left shoulder however when casting with a multiplier I am casting over my right shoulder. The reason for this is that I need to control the spin with my left thumb however I am loosing a lot of distance due to my action being not as smooth as it should be.
Secondly I am using trifocal glasses which often cause me to loose sight of my sinker / bait in flight when I need to peek at the spool to check for over-winds resulting in me having no idea where my bait landed. When casting with a grinder I don't have this problem as I can keep my eye on the flight of the sinker / bait. :blush:
I therefore assume that the magnets will alleviate some of the aforementioned challenges which will result in me enjoying the multipliers as much as the coffee grinders.
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:dunno: ...Sorry for my ignorance...still cannot understand why one would do this to a reel......then get a coffee....
Ok Kent let me tell you why I would do it. I am sort of ambidextrous. I do some things left handed and others right handed. When casting a coffee grinder I cast with the rod over my left shoulder however when casting with a multiplier I am casting over my right shoulder. The reason for this is that I need to control the spin with my left thumb however I am loosing a lot of distance due to my action being not as smooth as it should be.
Secondly I am using trifocal glasses which often cause me to loose sight of my sinker / bait in flight when I need to peek at the spool to check for over-winds resulting in me having not idea where my bait landed. When casting with a grinder I don't have this problem as I can keep my eye on the flight of the sinker / bait. :blush:
I therefore assume that the magnets will alleviate some of the aforementioned challenges which will result in me enjoying the multipliers as much as the coffee grinders.
w;k ..Fair enough......Charles...BUT...for you , yes , who grew up useing coffees...BUT...for okies that have always used multipliers????...Ek vra ma net...nie om DIFFICULT te wees...
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By this logic if I can drive a car without traction control I'd be wasting my time to buy one with traction control :dunno:
Surely anything that makes angling easier is a good thing? After all the point is to catch fish!
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By this logic if I can drive a car without traction control I'd be wasting my time to buy one with traction control :dunno:
Surely anything that makes angling easier is a good thing? After all the point is to catch fish!
:-) ..maybe...in vehicles its all about life and death ..then YES I will drive the one with all the mod cons within my budget...BUT...in fishing...why modify a R3000.00 odd reel that was designed to be "slowed" by useing an educated thumb through hours of practise...BUT...now I am getting into semantics and Im getting to be difficult...LOL...so I will leave it right here..... :resp:
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:clwn ..For me ...and my opinion...its not about catching the actual fish....it starts today with the session ending Sunday night with me posting a report here on UA...the anticipation....the coffee , while looking at the water , that first mornings cast in the dark...casting for an houir non stop , with no over wind...casting a 1,5oz spoon into the wind and no over wind...Its ALL that and then the fish???....Well...that is the ABSOLUTE cherry!!..Thats why Ive never really considered myself a fisherman , in the true sense of the word...BUT...sorry I digress......To magnatise OR not to maganatise....be it a means to an end???...getting the bait into the water??...well then ...why dont we just launch it in with a rocket??....LOL...To me , casting is a great art form ...almost like a Samurai with his katana....years and years of practise and the enjoyment seeking that enlightenment of perfection!!! :uarocks
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This pic was taken a while back, before such a wide range of reels were catered for, but the product and packaging remains the same !
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When you have to wait untill after dinner, before you can start the evening's work and you are faced with this line-up, you know it's not going to be an early one ...
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(clap) You can expect my reels soon! Landing in SA on the 14th and mailing them to you on the 15th of October.
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:clwn ..For me ...and my opinion...its not about catching the actual fish....it starts today with the session ending Sunday night with me posting a report here on UA...the anticipation....the coffee , while looking at the water , that first mornings cast in the dark...casting for an houir non stop , with no over wind...casting a 1,5oz spoon into the wind and no over wind...Its ALL that and then the fish???....Well...that is the ABSOLUTE cherry!!..Thats why Ive never really considered myself a fisherman , in the true sense of the word...BUT...sorry I digress......To magnatise OR not to maganatise....be it a means to an end???...getting the bait into the water??...well then ...why dont we just launch it in with a rocket??....LOL...To me , casting is a great art form ...almost like a Samurai with his katana....years and years of practise and the enjoyment seeking that enlightenment of perfection!!! :uarocks
I enjoy and share your views Kenty , But hats of to Cuban Cigar , this has taken off pretty well , and its done really professionally . :-)
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(clap) You can expect my reels soon! Landing in SA on the 14th and mailing them to you on the 15th of October.
Hi Charles !
No problem - remember that Postnet Courier Service now have a new deal going - R 99-00 one way countrywide for a parcel up to 5kg's - that allows a couple of reels in the same parcel to bri g the shipping price per reel, right down - on economy, counter to counter 3 working days service !
For the guys not already having their reels covered by full, all risk insurance, insurance can be added for the price of 3% of the insured value.
They have not been slowed down by the Post Office strikes either ...
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:clwn ..For me ...and my opinion...its not about catching the actual fish....it starts today with the session ending Sunday night with me posting a report here on UA...the anticipation....the coffee , while looking at the water , that first mornings cast in the dark...casting for an houir non stop , with no over wind...casting a 1,5oz spoon into the wind and no over wind...Its ALL that and then the fish???....Well...that is the ABSOLUTE cherry!!..Thats why Ive never really considered myself a fisherman , in the true sense of the word...BUT...sorry I digress......To magnatise OR not to maganatise....be it a means to an end???...getting the bait into the water??...well then ...why dont we just launch it in with a rocket??....LOL...To me , casting is a great art form ...almost like a Samurai with his katana....years and years of practise and the enjoyment seeking that enlightenment of perfection!!! :uarocks
I enjoy and share your views Kenty , But hats of to Cuban Cigar , this has taken off pretty well , and its done really professionally . :-)
(clap) ..Jip...no look....what these okies do to reels here in SA , I take my hat off to them...also our fishing conditions and the way we fish here is very very unique and I dont think practised anywhere else in the world...So..yes.... :resp: ..To Mr Cigar......keep up the good work...
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:dunno: ...Sorry for my ignorance...still cannot understand why one would do this to a reel......then get a coffee....
I hear you and you have a very valid point :bow: as mentioned in post #225 and #226, however :toppie: , just saying purely because I struggled with baitcasters when I started and yes I am at a point now where I can set their factory fitted casting controls to get the max distance without the continious over-winds due to hours of casting and practicing. The however is this and I think this is what HP was trying to say, if an improvement comes along (that actually works) which in this case allows you to apply all the strength to your rod for the cast without the required years of educating a thumb to control the spool spin and the occasional over-wind :shk , let alone the added advantage of being able to get some extra distance out of the same cast with the mags as opposed to the traditinal thumb brake method :shk :shk , well, to me it all adds up to "why are the manufactures not installing this feature on the multiplier reels?" :unhap they should, period! it is an advantage to cast better, further and without spending time trying to sort out over-winds, time that could have been used for actual fishing.
Most (if not all) freshwater baitcasters (smaller versions of multipliers) have these cast control systems installed, you'll be hard pressed to find one that doesn't. Anyhow, the only reason the manufactures don't add this, in my opinion is cost.
PS. no matter how good a product is, rod, reel, trigger, horsepower, name it? Without proper control, it will never come to its full potential, no matter how you try. :cry:
Would have loved to have been able to give you two exact setups, one magged and one conventional and let you cast both as far as you possibly could muster and then hear your thoughts. Distance, ease of use, repetitive results and confidence = coffee tasting better in the moring before the first cast :happ:
:the sHPLAT this means nothing, just like the emoticon :hehe:
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LGF some very valid points.
As for the manufacturers I think they should produce some reels with this magnetic control. The simple reason is that a lot of guys buy grinders just because they don't have an educated thumb, don't want to waste huge amounts of money on line lost due to over-winds or simply don't have the time or patience to unravel them.
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there's a reason why every single long distance casting record is held by reels with magnets and not by reels thrown with an educated thumb.
When Danny Moeskopps was in Namibia a few years ago he actually told people how much distance you lose every time an educated thumb comes near the spool.... U even lose a lot of distance if the line lifts off the spool in stead of it coming off straight.
For shorter accurate casts i would say go without the magnets. For hit it as hard as u can everytime, unless you have spent a lot of time practising, this is clearly the way. Even guys that cast really well have added massive distances to their casting....the difference between a 125m cast and a 150+ cast is massive especially at long shallow beaches. Not everyone puts in a session every 2nd day or even every weekend. Not everyone casts from rocks into nice deep water. Many people i know maybe does one saturday a month. Now you have to spend the first 2 hours just getting back into rythm? Lots of people go once every 2nd month. Not everyone feels like wading and swimming around with GW's everywhere.... Some spots are only fishable at low tide, where this might make u able to extend it another hour or so.
There's value in everything. I don't need ABS brakes and airbags in my bantam, but it would make me less worried on rainy days in cape town when people can't drive for Sh**.
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Good day Gents
This is a report on the Mag-it product that Cuban cigar installs into the reels.
Now I have been fishing freshwater for close to 9 years now and use only grinders.
So for the occasional trip down to the coast I have a eds setup that consists of a shimano exxage 1446 combined with a Daiwa firewolf 50hi that I bought around 4 years ago.
So needless to say I needed to learn how to use the multiplier correctly but with my best cast and near perfect thumb control on the reel ect I would only get around 50 to 60m, and almost always with a small overwind anyway.
Now since I was going to have to throw well over 100m when I want to do the ineds thing I started doing allot of research into casting a multi[plier reel and I stumbled onto the Magi-it systems that Cuban installs into the reels. I read everything I could find about the way it works on sealine as well as on the internet so see if it could help me out. I then contacted Cuban to find out even more about the mag-it and he explained things in serious detail to make sure I understood exactly what was going on.
Cuban then started asking me what I will be doing and targeting etc. So I told him my reasoning and he said he will have a look and see if he cant help me out with some better prices as well.
The rod I needed was the Shimano technium heavy. the reel was the Saltist bg50 and then the braid.
the best I could get for it all was R 5 150.00.
Cuban on his own time and dime called around and was able to get it for me for R 4 700.00
I just transferred the money to him, he drove and got everything for me, installed the Mag-it system into the Saltist and even made a plan to meet me somewhere to give it all to me.
All of this and all he asked me was the price for the mag-it system he put in the reel.
So just as a recap of all I just blabbered on about this is the character of the man that I dealt with and the extent to where he went for me, just to help me out.
Now to get to the Part of how the reel performed.
I spooled the reel with the braid, then the 0.52 topshot as well as a 0.90mm windon, took a 300m industrial measuring tape and my fiancé's young cousins to the field close to where we were staying. Lets just say the poor lad ran his !@# of that day lol. Bought him a small rod and reel to say thanks, and the bugger caught the first fish out of us all, a Small steenbra, so another fisherman is born hahahaha
I put a 9 ounce sinker on and marked my spot from where I will be casting.
This is a list of the different casts and what happened.
Fist cast I was afraid over a overwind so I kept my finger on the reel to stop a overwind form happening as I was very skeptical whether this magnet thing is going to work or not lol.
First cast 79m no overwind.
second cast 97m no overwind. I left the reel completely after the cast, but In fear over overwind I didn't load the rod properly
third cast 103m no overwind
4th cast 116m no overwind can hear overwind happening but as I didn’t look at the spool at all I just followed my sinker them overwind sorted itself out
5th cast 110m small overwind Heard the overwind happening and put my thump back on the reel in fear, but only made things worse because I then looked at the reel and didn’t follow my sinker.
6th cast 115m no over
7th cast 120m no overwind starting to load the rod better and getting more confident with the casts
8th cast 129m no overwind
the following 12 casts all ended in the 125 tot 130m range.
I then contacted cuban again telling him how the reel performed and that I was hearing the overwind happening. he said that I should open the reel up and adjust the magnet with n kebab stick , but only by 1mm up and then I should try it again.
Took me a while as I was afraid I will loose things or break something, but I moved the magnet 1mm up.
new magnet placing casting report.
first cast 115m no overwind.
second cast 132m no overwind
third cast 138m small overwind, misjudges when the sinker hit the ground.
4th cast 135m think I was afraid of the previous overwind lol
5th cast 144m no overwind
the following 10 casts all ended up in the 140m tot 145m
best cast that I made was 151m
so basically I went from not casting a multiplier for the last 4 years to 145m average in less than 40 casts. with no casting control either from the knob on the reel or from my finger. only time my thump touches the reel is as I cast and when the sinker hits the ground.
So in conclusion to the Mag-it product as well as the gent installing it.
Wilhelm is a great guy, helped me allot and never once didn’t come back to me about something, went the extra 10 miles to help me out and did so all out of his own pocket. Only charges was that of the Mag-it including the installation.
What is there to say about the Mag-it product??? Amazing, absolutely amazing, knowing you can cast your heart out and you wont get an overwind really makes it allot more fun for someone like me who always dreaded the overwinds accompanied by the multiplier reels.
overall a great experience to have dealt with Wilhelm aka "Cuban cigar" and I will be sending him allot of reels in the future lol
Thanks foe everything Wilhelm.
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Hagar please could you post his email address, I would like to look for some mags for my torium 50 :hnthnt:
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You have a PM Half pint.
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:shk ... (clap) some impressive stats Hagar and huge improvement , awesome , think its time i got my heavy ined reels static magged , Brad give me a shout when u send off the Torium , might be adding some reels to the box ... :hnthnt: :hnthnt:
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Hi Hagar , ditto a request for contact details . :tkx: . Colin. :toppie:
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:shk ... (clap) some impressive stats Hagar and huge improvement , awesome , think its time i got my heavy ined reels static magged , Brad give me a shout when u send off the Torium , might be adding some reels to the box ... :hnthnt: :hnthnt:
Will do!
I might just order the kit and fit it myself :dunno: not sure how hard it would be
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I'm interrested in mags for my Tor 30 and Penn Fathom 30,could someone please pm me the price and if it's easy enough to install myself... :tkx:
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This is Wilhelp aka Cuban cigar's number, he is on watsapp that is where me and him spoke most of the time.
072 186 0670
email
magbrake@gmail.com
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:dunno: ...Sorry for my ignorance...still cannot understand why one would do this to a reel......then get a coffee....
:shk Kenty.... :crzy duh What a fool I was.
I shared your doubt!
I purchased a few clever reels, thinking I was 'managing' to cast them quite well.
Consensus then was that the 30A was too fast for most peoples pockets and only the experienced could throw them. I suffered but bit my gums and continued changing monofilament, believing I was gaining experience with the reel. I went one step further and looked for lubricants to assist with service and upkeep. I found Corrosion block and Hot Stuff. Applied same to an already fast reel, which became somewhat of a Indy Car on the track.
Finally after much debate I sent my reel's to CC, including the Talica 25 II.
Now I can very comfortably cast/gooi/whack (even at night) without issues full tilt) without thumb control, without birds-nesting line, without having to pull off and cut off or spend money on new mono.
You are probably saying...I have an 'educated' thumb....
Do yourself a favour, for what its worth, you will be pleasantly surprised.
:zipit:
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I also had my reels done by Cuban Cigar, Tor20, SLH50 and Fathom 30. Never looked back, never had a serious over-wind and I am as happy as can be. Absolutely recommended.
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:corrct: Magged my SL30sh and casting is much more pleasurable and predictable, I use it on 12' 3oz and on a 12' 5oz rod as well , !00%.
The only issue is that very occasionally the line slips between the spool and the reel case . Any ideas why this is happens, I use .40 line , and with a 5 oz a few winds around the spool of .45 line. :dunno: :toppie:
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colin....daiwa slosh30?
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:dunno: ...Sorry for my ignorance...still cannot understand why one would do this to a reel......then get a coffee....
:shk Kenty.... :crzy duh What a fool I was.
I shared your doubt!
I purchased a few clever reels, thinking I was 'managing' to cast them quite well.
Consensus then was that the 30A was too fast for most peoples pockets and only the experienced could throw them. I suffered but bit my gums and continued changing monofilament, believing I was gaining experience with the reel. I went one step further and looked for lubricants to assist with service and upkeep. I found Corrosion block and Hot Stuff. Applied same to an already fast reel, which became somewhat of a Indy Car on the track.
Finally after much debate I sent my reel's to CC, including the Talica 25 II.
Now I can very comfortably cast/gooi/whack (even at night) without issues full tilt) without thumb control, without birds-nesting line, without having to pull off and cut off or spend money on new mono.
You are probably saying...I have an 'educated' thumb....
Do yourself a favour, for what its worth, you will be pleasantly surprised.
:zipit:
:crzy You Sir....have an UN educated thumb.... :hehe: ...BUT...as they say different strokes , in this case MAGGING, for different folks and each to his own.....As in Indy car , F1 etctetc...launch control , clutch ...wait ..they dont have clutches??....and all this other gizmos...to me its nor racing anymore BUt just driving...that being said ...the techno advances HAVE been applied to our road going cars and they HAVE become safer over the years albeit more expensive....BUT...I will still stick to my trusty ole SL30 as she came off the factory bench....and as to overwinds.....I was taught ...NEVER cut!!...Maxima green was expensive in those days...Sooo...a 4 inch nail was standard equipment in my sling bag...
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author=Psy
colin....daiwa slosh30? :toppie:
Hi Psy
the SL30sh have done a 50 size as well.
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:dunno: ...Sorry for my ignorance...still cannot understand why one would do this to a reel......then get a coffee....
:shk Kenty.... :crzy duh What a fool I was.
I shared your doubt!
I purchased a few clever reels, thinking I was 'managing' to cast them quite well.
Consensus then was that the 30A was too fast for most peoples pockets and only the experienced could throw them. I suffered but bit my gums and continued changing monofilament, believing I was gaining experience with the reel. I went one step further and looked for lubricants to assist with service and upkeep. I found Corrosion block and Hot Stuff. Applied same to an already fast reel, which became somewhat of a Indy Car on the track.
Finally after much debate I sent my reel's to CC, including the Talica 25 II.
Now I can very comfortably cast/gooi/whack (even at night) without issues full tilt) without thumb control, without birds-nesting line, without having to pull off and cut off or spend money on new mono.
You are probably saying...I have an 'educated' thumb....
Do yourself a favour, for what its worth, you will be pleasantly surprised.
:zipit:
:crzy You Sir....have an UN educated thumb.... :hehe: ...BUT...as they say different strokes , in this case MAGGING, for different folks and each to his own.....As in Indy car , F1 etctetc...launch control , clutch ...wait ..they dont have clutches??....and all this other gizmos...to me its nor racing anymore BUt just driving...that being said ...the techno advances HAVE been applied to our road going cars and they HAVE become safer over the years albeit more expensive....BUT...I will still stick to my trusty ole SL30 as she came off the factory bench....and as to overwinds.....I was taught ...NEVER cut!!...Maxima green was expensive in those days...Sooo...a 4 inch nail was standard equipment in my sling bag...
Kent...No! ..........My thumb's are working well!
The high $ reels are pretty fast. Much faster than your trusty 'AK47' SLOSH#30.
As you mentioned the technical advances over the past few years, have raised the bar! The composites and inner components including gearing are way above your AK47.
It took a few casts and quite some time to find the sweet spot for the magnet position. So the reel had to be stripped down and the magnet repositioned and reel rebuilt etc. before another casting session was undertaken. Eventually the chosen spot was achieved.
I chose different monofilaments... Perline, Awa-Shima, Dbblx, but have settled on Berkely Trilene, which together with its knot strength, suppleness, no memory.... Now without any thumb control I experience hassle free casting with the 30A.
No overruns, no birds-nesting, no nylon wastage, and no need to carry 4" nails :crzy
CC's mods and additions are not to be slighted.
As said before; try before you buy!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- :vio ------------------------------------------------------
@ Colin...check the Cast Control! If too loose it will allow free play on the spool/shaft & body of the reel.
This will create an opening between spool and casing, which your monofilament can get wrapped into or caught within.
I had the very issue with a Torium 20 ~ the casing was not 100% true to the spool, so allowing the line to slip into the small space between the spool & frame...often damaging the line, either flattening/squashing it or creating kinks in the line.
Solution; ............float tested the reel. :diving: ....your call :hnthnt:
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Hell Psy , 1am :nuts:, do you work nights or like me have a bladder problem ?? :hehe: . Will check ,don't think it is the cast control , your suggestion that it may be the shaft not running true, or a slight deformation of the spool or casing seems more likely. I will rotate and check both in a good light and with specs. :tkx: :udman: :toppie:
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i work nights...yuup! :)
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:hyst: .I bet my AK47 as you call it , with its reworked spool spindle , ceramic bearings and brake shafts removed and ratchet removed with graphite powder on the inner wall spool walls will still be a HELLUVA lot faster out the blocks than any of the off the shelf "super" reels...BUT...then again my "mods" have been to speed my AK47 up NOT slow it down with magging as you call it.....Multipliers spools were never designed to be "slowed" down ...hence enter the much complicated coffee grinders.....Aaaarrgghh...hate the things!!.....BUT...Im just yapping now and before this becomes ..."mine is bigger/faster OR in your case , "slower" than mine " story...lets just agree to disagree ...AT least you not hung up on coffee grinders ....ne Simon???....ek se ma net... :hehe: w;k
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Don't wanna restart what Kent ended with but, the stat-magging is actually a performance enhancement and not a brake-system. Yes it slows the spool down by means of inductive magnetism as result of induced "Eddie currents" etc etc, been explained before. However,.............. Kent and other that still ponder if they should or not, read on.
What this slowing down does, is to ensure that no matter the power placed in the cast, the magnet/s slows the "over speed" down so that the line gets pulled out with more control and thus with better efficiency that equals greater distance. With the benefit of the "no-over winds", "no-nesting" etc etc.
Trust me on this, magging a reel is all about performance (distance without issues) and not limiting the performance of the reel, but improving it.
My fishing bud and me both have the exact same rods, actually bought mine cause he rated it such a great rod, both of us used Suffix 832 50lb braid and rigged the exact same top water Spro frogs, even the same colour, he was at the front of the boat and I was at the back, always like that, it's his boat. Each time we cast these rods I end up casting at least 15m further than him, every time! He once said "Are we on the See who can cast the furthest again today?" Then went on to change to 20lb braid for distance, no help I still achieve the average of 15m further than him, this btw excludes the boat length.
So where does magging come in, well my reel has no less than 5 micro adjustable neodinium magnets (factory installed) in the one side plate, his doesn't. If he loosens his cast control, he does just that looses cast control and end up wasting distance or if not careful time to haul out his 4" nail (BPS line pick) to fix the over wind, in which time I probably would get around 15 casts in and that increases my opportunity to land the monster in the grass.
They should put this in multipliers too, regardless the increase in cost, that increase in cost will easily be forgotten once people get the taste of the efficiency of this system and lemme say this, if one of the major supplier brings out just one model with this installed as a feature, it will outsell all the other makes and models, period!
@ Kent.
As PSY stated, try it once, perhaps not on your trusty AK, that's a classic and should be left as is, one never messes with a classic, no matter what kind of a classic it is, be it a car, a song, a recipe, gun or a reel! Period! So, see if somebody close to you have such a magged reel (preferably a similar to one you would do this modification to) and ask him/her to have a couple of casts with it, that way you can compare it properly. But it is a super upgrade and not a visible damaging downgrade.
PS, see you've already done some mods on your AK to speed it up and that's Super, now add NOS too your dyna-tuned, blueprint (balanced) weight reduced, fuel injected, graphite greased super smooth bearing, braked removed machine :resp: and have it open all the time, pedal to metal with launch control, maximum power without slipping tyres or wheel spin, smoke and the eventual loss in distance covered in a certain amount of time. :hnthnt:
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:clwn ..Hehe...let me reply with a picture....OR rather explain what and how I fish....My spoons range from half ounce to absolute MAX 2oz...BUT...will on average almost always be throwing a 1,5oz spoon....NOW....throwing a lighter "weight" is more difficult than a heavier one , coz one thinks one needs to put more effort to get the lighter weight going and further???...Well , now , should you have an educated thumb , a very well tuned multiplier (un magged) , you will not need to to muscle that lighterweight ...BUT instead have a steady smooth "flick" BUT firm/hard cast and a thumb that can brake just as firm/hard....
Throw HARD and brake HARD!!!...BUT..steady and smooth....I see alot of fisherman casting light weights and they step on the cast...fatal mistake!!...the moment that reel is moving in your hands its overwind time ....that reel must be the pivot point and must be as STEADFAST as possible....the steadier/still your reel is the smoother and less overwinds you will get and then no need for all this un natural braking systems....BUT this then again is only my opinion...
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:hehe:, no probs Kent, just my 2 Zim cents worth.
Ok let me paint you a PICASO :hyst:, with our type of fishing we end up casting what you guys in that big blue pond (that holds no fish, THANX swr CHINA) cast for the entire day in less than a minute :shk. It also entails various weights, shapes and profiles (aerodynamics of certain bulky light weight baits) on different types of lines of various thicknesses with many a different rod in length, backbone, tip actions etc and then this gets done by flipping, skipping, pitching, long hard powered and normal and light powered casts and flicks, over shoulder, under arm, sideways and up and under casting/flipping/pitching action, then there's wind or lack thereof, trees and other natural elements/structure to consider for each and every cast and although we (I for one) do not use a thumb to brake a cast, I do however use the lifting of the rodtip at the end of a pitch to make the bait enter the water with the least amount of noise and splash and a magged reel (factory) is a must. Also each reel (application specific) is fine tuned for my style of casting/flipping/pitching whatever, I therefore don't need to have all the fine tuned thumb control parameters stored in the grey matter :toppie:that would apply to each and every setup.
But again, if you're :happ: with your setup as is, well then your :happ: with it, thing is, I know you could be happier :happ: :yipee: :happ: and get better distances :ScooT:.