1.5mm thick industrial cable slide trace

[Fluffy]

  .5mm thick industrial cable slide trace
Good morning ladies.I was bored yesterday so i took some time to show you how to make a nice slide trace. Although i assume everyone on this site knows how to make there own slide trace,there might be some new idea that pops in your head when you see this. This is my first tutorial so i am just putting in everything i can think of.forgive me.
 
Ingredients ;) :
2 x Bandits x4 Heavy duty 10/0s (+-R3 per/hook ):)
1 x 1.5mm industrial crimp (+- R1,50 ):(
1 x khan's sexy non-return clip ( very cheap ) :)
1.5mm industrial stranded cable ( +-R3 per/meter ):)
Some insulation tape.
Some sharp pliers.
heat shrink wrap (if you realy want to)
total cost of 1m slide about R21,50
 
First i cut my length of cable i will be using.This 1.5mm industrial cable costs the same or less then the nylon coated cable we get in the shop.it looks very strong and is uncovered(no nylon). First time i use this cable so will see how it works out.
 
The cable ends i tape with the insulation to keep them from unraveling.cut the access tape skew off so it can go through the eyes and crimps.
 
First I tie the bottom hook with a snell knot,3 or 4 turns,you can put on the wrap on the knot if you realy want to.didnt look like the knot will pull as i bend the steel when i pass it through the eye.
Next the top hook,also a snell knot,same amount of turns.also wrap it if you really want to with the heat shrink.
 
By know i have tested the knots with lots of pressure.holding so thats ok.

[Fluffy]

  Now i need to tie the other end of the cable to the non return slide.First i put the industrial crimp on the steel.The skew cut tag ends help with this.Then I do a normal overhand knot with the cable..only one since the cable is so thick.normally i do 2 within each other.pull the knot tight as possible.use your pliers if you need to. Also use the pliers to flatten your knot and make the tag end come down the cable.Put the tag end through the crimp as far as possible and crimp the crimp(or mo3r it with a hammer, works for me:)). Cut the access cable off,and whala....a nice finished industrial cabled slide trace. PS some custom packaging.

[Fluffy]

  This slide trace is about 80cm long.I will use this of the beach.Since it this short it would go down easier.For the rest of the protection i will use 120pd or more above the stop ring of about 1.5m long.and the leader tied directly to the cable.Both cable knots are done with double overhand knots within each other.tag ends wrapped around steel for nice finish.

[Fluffy]

  Moan   
or
 
  praise

[BigG]

Nice Fluffy, you mentioned you had just 3 slides made for this summer and that you wouldn't need more

Well now with this new one made i guess you have 4 ?

[REEFMAN]

Definitely....

  praise

and some cred!

[Fluffy]

Nice Fluffy, you mentioned you had just 3 slides made for this summer and that you wouldn't need more

Well now with this new one made i guess you have 4 ?

i have 3 non return clips....
1 off 9 months old,made
1 made yesterday
and 1 left to make another one:)

[BigG]

I use 480lbs trolling cable, it's also 1.5mm thick, some people were asking me if any difficulty sliding
I slid some whole yellowtails on these traces earlier this year at BWB, (traces were also approximately 80mm long)
I had no tangles, no burn offs and i know the slide went all the way down to the ring, but sadly had no takers

I use 275lbs trolling cable on my normal slides(1.2mm) also the ones from Khan(they are fantastic) and i use 480lbs(1.5mm) on my heavy duty monster shake downs

[Sailor]

Nice slide. Super strong.

[Action Man]

I still dont know why you would go to such an extreme level with the wire...for me there is not point in going so heavy....Nice trace non the less have some cred

[Fluffy]

cheaper then the packaged wire.No coating on it.So when a shark would bite on it the cable wont get stuck on only one part between the teeth.so the shark wont bite through you cable that easily.as with 200pd steel when you use the nylon coated/carbon coated when the shark bites the trace normaly gets stuck between the teeth and the nylon compresses agains it self and the cable cant go anywhere thereby allowing the teeth to only bite on a small part of the cable,thus making it easier to bit through the cable.no coating=no grip=no tangles.

[BigG]

Also the cable i use is extremely flexible, it is heat treated and does not kink, keeping the trace 100%
I have retrieved these traces after an unproductive outing, wash them off and pack them back in my tacklebag with zero kinks and as good as they were before i slid them

When retrieving normal nylon coated wire traces, with the wash int he water, most of the time i remove them from the water only to find them kinked and wrapped to the point where i wouldn't use them again, so i find i have to cut the hooks and make new traces again
I don't have that problem with the trolling cable, it's extremely durable and kink resistant

[Action Man]

You guys have some valid points and i understand were you are coming from, but i have caught many a shark over 100kg and using the carbon coated wire. You say you cant get bitten off but you can, Iv seen it happen many a time to guys using 440lb wire, I feel the shark has more of a chance bitting you off with thick wire like that than with 250lb coated wire...

just my 2c dont take it personally please

[BigG]

Hiya Action Man, not arguing that mate, if you going to get bitten off, it's going to happen no matter how thick the steel you use, agree completely, i like the fact that the thicker trolling cable i use does offer you some degree of extra protection versus the normal carbon coated wire if you get wrapped, and as i mentioned in my previous post, the other plus is the fact that it does not kink, so i know my presentation on a slide is always looking as good as possible

As Fluffy mentioned, i also don't like retrieving my traces and finding the plastic coating being stripped off, the trolling cable in this regard is much more durable

But I have to agree with you, if something with big enough teeth on a bad day decides he wants to have a bite at your cable, then not even 600lbs cable is going to help you

[Fluffy]

mainline 0.55m....something that bites through 200pd.......is already a struggle to land.but yes.you can land 300kg sharks on 150pd carbon coated steel....

[steve m]

  This slide trace is about 80cm long.I will use this of the beach.Since it this short it would go down easier.For the rest of the protection i will use 120pd or more above the stop ring of about 1.5m long.and the leader tied directly to the cable.Both cable knots are done with double overhand knots within each other.tag ends wrapped around steel for nice finish.

Nice trace
dont you ever get cut off when you tie your leader onto it that way?
ive found that double back to back figure 8s are the best for me atleast...

[Half-Pint]

I have to agree to some extent with Stef. 400lb just seems a bit excessive for KZN beaches and points tho in the Kei or somewhere like Robberg I would definately use it. Just my idiot opinion.

One question tho. Why do you choose to snell the bottom hook? I found it much easier to do a flemish eye knot and crimp than to snell since those wraps tend to unravel at the precise moment you feed it thru the eye

[Fluffy]

Nice trace
dont you ever get cut off when you tie your leader onto it that way?
ive found that double back to back figure 8s are the best for me atleast...

no i dont get cut off that way,it provides even more protection,. the back to back figure of 8s do work,but i make this cable above the stop ring removeable.so if i need to replace the leader,i cut it off and i tie it onto that cable knot i made for the leader.so ie the cable above the stopper ring would last a very long time since i am not removing it or retying any knot in the steel.also the "double overhand" knot you see there on my stop ring cable can when pulled tight makes the steel knot thinner.the figure of 8s tend to be a bulky knot

[Fluffy]

I have to agree to some extent with Stef. 400lb just seems a bit excessive for KZN beaches and points tho in the Kei or somewhere like Robberg I would definately use it. Just my idiot opinion.

One question tho. Why do you choose to snell the bottom hook? I found it much easier to do a flemish eye knot and crimp than to snell since those wraps tend to unravel at the precise moment you feed it thru the eye

I snell the bottom hook because its alot easier.i started snelling almost all my hooks when i can,no knot so 100% strength in that part. that flemish eye tends to pull tight when on a fish and becomes ugly when you want to use it after a fish has been on it.