how to service a 3 way fridge

[Ziggy]

I have a 3 way fridge (and so-called freezer!) made by Edesa - bought in 1998

It has never been the greatest fridge - but its what I have and am not keen to buy a new one with compressor, inverter etc.

It can freeze stuff using gas- but only when the ambient temperature is low (like in the Drakensberg).

In hot places like the Namibia and the Zambezi valley, it only really operates like a cool fridge. I usually plug it into 220v the day before,then  pack it with frozen food,and  travel with it plugged in to 12 off the car (I had a plug installed in my bakkie with a solenoid that automatically switches the power off when the engine is off)- and then run it on gas when I get to the campsite.

I am about to go to the Zambezi (where the temp will be between 35-40)
 
I fired it up today at max on its dial (outside temp was about 22-24 degrees). I put a thermometer in inside and it got to 5 degrees, which is the same as Mommy's fridge in my kitchen.

Is there anyway that I can get it colder than that?

an internet search says:

• turn the fridge upside down for a few hours to break down the chrystals in the gas
• service it by cleaning out the soot and dust from the chimney and - ensuring that the flame is exactly situated under the pipe where the heat exchange happens
• ensure that the fridge is exactly level

Anybody have a similar fridge - or who knows how I can get the fridge to run colder?

Does anyone know how one services it?

thanks

[hrogers]

Try to put a few bags of ice inside the fridge, see if that will help...

[Ziggy]

Try to put a few bags of ice inside the fridge, see if that will help...

that would get the temp down - but only for as long as the ice lasts - I am looking at how to get the fridge operating at a lowere temp - without adding ice


When I pack it with frozen stuff - it generally keeps the stuff frozen for a few days - but when the outside temp is high - it does get less cold eventually

[craigb]

NEVER EVER turn it upside down dude.

[Ziggy]

NEVER EVER turn it upside down dude.

thats what I thought too!

[Ziggy]

NEVER EVER turn it upside down dude.

thats what I thought too!

However - reading further, turning a fridge on its side or upside down is a problem only with a compressor fridge - a three way fridge appears to be different  - see this:
The objective is to break up any gas pockets that may beblocking circulation and to re-dissolve any crystallized chromate solution.There is a wide variety of suggestions on how to do this on the web. Allseemed excessively complicated and time consuming so I devised my own.What I did was to put the refrigerator on its side, left it there until thegurgling stopped (NOT overnight as some of the procedures indicate), thenturned it upside down until the gurgling stopped, followed by placing it onits other side until the gurgling stopped.To aid the fluids' return to their proper places, I then rocked the 'fridgebetween lying flat on its (looking from the rear) right side to just a bitpast upright. All the plumbing is on the right on my unit so this wasdesigned to let the fluid flow freely. On each move, I again waited for thegurgling to stop.The final step was to sit the cabinet upright and let the gurgling stop. Ithen hooked up propane and lit the burner.

And this on cleaning the burner and flue: http://www.popupportal.com/index.php?topic=24205.0

[Toppie]

Ziggy, I had the bigger/biggest Zero 3-way camping freezer 70 or 90l I think. First one I brought from the shop was a dud and didnt work. Exchanged it and the next was perfect.
 
Used it at home on 220v to freeze its cargo which it did properly and solidly, then packed into and still plugged in in the back of the landy. No power for 24 hours to Pomene in Moz but when we got there everything was still frozen solid.
 
Everybody said these three-way absorbtion freezers are rubbish and that it wouldnt work in Pomene's +40 degree heat.
 
On gas it worked perfectly and as it allowed space we could add colddrink cans or water which nearly froze in three hours.
 
On our return I sold it for more than I paid for it. Was probably the biggest mistake I ever made. Shortly thereafter Zero stopped making these saying they didnt sell enough and that its therefore not viable. Wasnt available for last 5 or 7 years. They are making them now again and as soon as I can I will buy another one.
 
The mechanism/system works with an absorbtion process of heated circulating amonium. Always take care that a breeze or wind doesnt blow out the little flame.
 
The little "hole/holes" above the flame sometimes becomes blocked by soot from the flame. Perhaps just a simple job to have it serviced to check if amonium level is correct and soot build up cleaned.
 
I was also told not to turn/tilt/turn on its side. Maybe your amonium could somehow have escaped.
 
If all else fails buy a Zero.

[Ziggy]

thanks for that Toppie!


I have tried to find a person to service it here in Durban - but no luck.


I can do the basic service (ie clean the thermocouple and the flue) - but clearly would not be able to deal with the ammonia stuff - which I dint think has escaped - no evidence of leaks etc - and it does work efficiently at getting the temp down to 5 degrees.I have also never turned it over - I dont ever recall it ever being on its side- at most it has leaned over about 45 degrees


I also think that my son fiddled with the regulator setting when he and his mates went camping - maybe I should get that seen to as well


I have just now  switched it to 220v and I will check the temp later to see if it is any different than with the gas

[Lenny]

Theres a couple of things I can Suggest .
I am not a guru on the small stuff , but Cold rooms and P&P /Woolies Shoprite , multiplexes that was my line of work .   

Some of these Camping Fridges you can get Padded bags , very novel Idea , but get one with proper vents , lots of guys uses these bags and blocks the vents , your fridge will eventually cave in . Make sure notting is obstucking the vents .

You can Open up the Expansion valve more [this will increase Gas Flow], this should/ Could  be close to your  Soleniod , Usually on the bigger Fridges and Cases , Blowers Ect , Its a Brass Nut [Size 13]  I would ASSUME on the smaller fridges , it will be either a Small bolt or Skrew , Turn the Bolt/nut out , looser.


You can Bypass the Timer , All fridges / Chillers , Freezers has got one , the smaller models , ussually a small black box ,just make sure , you will have to switch on and of otherwise things will go rockhard in there  the bigger models , its similar to a normal timer .


Make sure the door/lid closes properly . Make sure theres no Ice build up when running it, be wary of bend and perrished rubber seals , when the rubbers are not sealing properly your Comp will eventually burn out , and lagg.
Maybe you could have a small Gas leak , switch on the Freezer , and test all areas with Soapy water , Some of these copper welds , breaks easily , ecspecially the smaller mobile Units , gets bumps ect . Do a long test , when checking for leaks , the Compressor must run , and discharge , sometimes you will see a Spot of oil on the Pipe work , then theres a Leak forsure .   


I will NOT turn it over .


Hells bells ,I will not advise you to try any of this , unless your kinda desprate .
or BYPASS the regulator , could be that regulator that ceased up . Actually my money is on the Regulator.
Just that theres no confusion , I could be that the Regulator are in fact the Timer , hence if the Timer/regulator is Stuffed the Gas will not Condense to a low Temp , hence you will not reach you desired temp , I am 99% convinced now thats it that regulator . The Regulator , in this cas has preset settings , and the colder you want ti to go , the longer the Comp will run and the lower the temp will go , before the Comps Swithes of .
 
Also make sure all the nuts that locks onto other piping [ those Brass nuts are tight , use a bit of locktite if your in doubt ]
I am pretty sure , that its not an Ammonia system , generally the Ammonia sys tems are for very large Cold storage .
My bet it will be a 404 refridgerant gas , could maybe be R22 . as most new stuff the past 10 years are R22 . 

[Lenny]

With regard to bypassing the Regulator/timer , there should be a Small Diagram on the inside or back of the Regulator Cover , which will give you insight as to wat bypassing it .


Servicing a small Fridge  , you will need regulators , and besure of what Gas your system is running on .
Dont take you fridge to a Dodge Fridge techki , he will only charge Gas in to your system , and this might not solve your problem .


Also check the Shrader valves , this is small  valve you connect your Regulators to and acts as a 'service port' similar to a car tyre valve , sometime they are loose , or worn out too , creating leaks . 

[Ziggy]

Thanks Lenny - very technical!


But is what you says applicable to an absorbtion fridge? Sound like ypu are talking about a compressor fridge?


The padded bag sounds like a good idea - and also changing the door seals so that they seal better


I will get the regulator seen to

[PH]

Ziggy, about 2 yrs ago we took our small 3 way fridge to have it fixed. The guys told us after a day or so that the replacement parts would cost more than a new fridge. So we let it go and let them "bury" the fridge.
Afterwards I thought "What replacement parts?" There are no moving parts on this type of fridge? I probably only needed cleaning of gas pipes etc. Onlly gas needs to be replaced if needed.
Makes one wonder if they did not fix it and sold it again.   

[Lenny]

yeah PH most domestic Fridge Techies will say that , beacause 99% of the time its the Comp that went , and in that case , they are correct , These Fridges are just not manufactured to get Compressors replaces , [some of the Copper Welding will be in very hard to reach places .I cant tell you how much time I spent on the road , int the Warm Boland area , just to defrost a Blower , of to to turn an expansion valve open a Have a turn .



These guys infact , do take chances to the unsuspecting client , and will sell your fridge afterwards .


Ziggy , all fridges work on  the same concept [to create extreme cold , you need extreme heat , silly i know ] , weather its Gas , Glycol , Or Ammonia , Its just settings and Pressure diffs  .


Have you noticed exccesive Ice build up inside the Fridge when switch on ?


I would still try to bridge out the regulator , and see what happens .

[Hooked]

There are guys out there that can recharge your absorbtion system.I have heard of one guy in Paarden Eiland in Cape Town that can do it. Your fridge does not have any moving parts that you can self service really , just the basics .
You can try a gas service centre that deals in gas heaters as some of the absorbtion freezers had a sort of choke on the gas regulator that might be jammed

[Hooked]

I asked some of the guys here at work and teh reccomendation is as follows.
Turn the fridge upside down for 20 min and then right side up again for 20 min and repeat 3 or 4 times.
Then let it stand for a few hours right way up before lighting it up.
The next best thing to check is that the flame is correctly positioned

[Lenny]

Yeah the Place Hooked is refering to is Metraclark ,[the sell service, parts replacement .parts ect ]  I think , you should have one up in Durbs too .


Hooked might have something here too , with the flame ..

[Lenny]

Why dont you scan Through the Member Directory thread , for a guys than could be more help full.

[Hooked]

Yeah the Place Hooked is refering to is Metraclark ,[the sell service, parts replacement .parts ect ]  I think , you should have one up in Durbs too .


Hooked might have something here too , with the flame ..

Metraclark only supply freon based components . They do not work on systems.

[Ziggy]

I asked some of the guys here at work and teh reccomendation is as follows.
Turn the fridge upside down for 20 min and then right side up again for 20 min and repeat 3 or 4 times.
Then let it stand for a few hours right way up before lighting it up.
The next best thing to check is that the flame is correctly positioned

this seems to be the majority opinion that I get on the internet.


I have just checked the temp while running on 220v - 5 degrees, same as i got when running on LPG. So I think that the thermocouple must be OK.


I will anyway clean the thermocouple and get the regulator checked.


Then I will do the upside down thing ......after that, if there is no change, I will just have to be satisfied with 5 degrees ....and live with a "cool" box in the ZAmbezi when it is really hot outside.


Basically it will be used to keep butter, cheese, salami, milk cool and to put in a few beers for the day so we can at least have a cold one after fishing and canoeing all day!


I am taking meat (and pre-cooked meals) in dry ice. With a good sealed polystyrene box - I have (in the past) managed to keep food fresh for at least 5 days.....although it is going to take me 2 days to drive there!


Any ideas on keeping meat? After vacuum packing the meat and putting it in the cooler with dry ice - how long do you think it will last?

[Johane]

Ziggy,
My experience is with three way freezers which are much the same.You must check the burner nozzle in SA you get some spider which spins and blocks the nozzles.I did'nt believe that either but experienced it.These things dont like to be opened regulaly and specially dont like warm items added to their load.For the beer I would try to borrow a 12volt freezer from a friend and cool them in there.