How To "Stat Mag" a Multiplier
So what is "stat magging" a reel? It is a very interesting concept that was introduced to and kindly shared with us here on UA by BAUMANNATOR.
So what is it? It is installing magnets into a reel in a static manner. This is to stop the spool from spinning out of control when casting creating overwinds. Sitting there reading this you might be saying, "But my reel has a cast control and a breaking system, so why should I install this?"
The installation of this system will enable you to set the braking of the revolving spool in a manner that would improve the distances you get when casting. Huh? Ok, let me explain by explaining the differences of the conventional factory installed and the "stat mag" breaking systems.
First off.
The revolving of the spool needs to be controlled throughout the duration of the cast, agreed. Remember the spool goes from stationary to "Is it a bird?, Is it a plane? No, it a flying Mackrel bait!" in a couple of split seconds when you release the weight at the apex of your cast. This weight travels through the air and slows down and actually stops for a brief while when the weight hits the water.
All the while (if not controlled) the spool will revolve at a speed that is much higher than required for the amount of line being pulled through the eyes of the rod. Yip, you guessed it, you take a picture like this and write a tutorial about how to set the reel's casting control systems.
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pic borrowed from Reefman's "101 Casting a multiplier..."
OK, lets get to the "breaks", breaking systems and the differences between them.
Factory Installed:There are predominantly two features one can use to prevent the "dreadlocked" reel in the previous picture and I am sure Reefs completely explained it in his tutorial. This is the cast control normally found on the handle side of the reel and the mechanical breaking system on the other side of the reel.
These measures both work in a physical manner and as you might have guessed it, the effect of both depends on the amount of friction that the various parts are subjected to through you setting them.
When you tend to cast an overwind due to various factors, i.e. change in wind strength or direction, a change in the weight of what you are casting, the change in power that you apply in your cast, etc. etc., you tend to compensate by tightening up these two controls. In doing so, theoretically you also compromise on distance as the more friction there is on the spool (sometimes more than what is required for distance but required to prevent an overwind) the quicker your casted weight will slow down, thus shorter distances.
The conventional systems also have "wear and tear", malfunction due to dirt, oil (too much or too little) etc. as additional issues to consider.
"Stat Magging"There is no physical contact. Breaking is achieved through magnetic resistance, is constant and is much smoother than what you will care to appreciate. No "wear and tear", no oil required and no malfunction (if you make sure your reel is clean and has not picked up some magnetic particle/s).
So how does it work?I'll try and explain it as I understand it. It takes some getting used to, but quite staright forward once you understand the science behind it.
First off, the spools are normally constructed of a non magnetic material such as aluminium. "Huh?"
....... "So how does a magnet slow the spool down?"
Neodymium magnetsThese magnets are also known as "Rare Earth Magnets" and are extremely strong in relation to actual size as opposed to the normal blackish/greyish ferrite magnets that one normally find at the rear of speakers. Magnetic fields are measured in Gauss and it is reported that the ferrite magnets have a general gauss of around 800 to 1000 whereas the Neodymium magnets range between 3000 and 3500 gauss, making them roughly 3 and a 1/2 times more powerful.
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The aluminium is a conductive material. The neodymium magnets have a magnetic field (a very strong one) and they are installed in a static manner. The spool moves when you cast. Here's the "sciencey" part.
Whenever a conductive material moves through a magnetic field, electric currents are generated (induced) in the conductive material, the aluminium spool. These currents are known as "Eddy currents" or "Eddy's".
All electric currents have magnetic force fields, right. Now, as these "Eddy's" are induced by the spool revolving (moving) through the magnetic force field of the magnet/s, they need to flow away, but as there is no-where for them to go, they remain in the spool and swirl around, hence keeping their magnetic force field around the spool.
Whenever you try to push two opposing polarities (in magnets) together, they push away from each other and similarly when you have two attracting polarities, they attract each other.
Say your spool only had a narrow band of aluminium from the center to the outer diameter then, the section of the spool that approaches the magnet would be pushed away. As this section passes through the center of the magnet's force field, the rear half of the section will now be pushed away and the forward half of the section, now just beyond the center of the magnet's force field, will be pulled towards the magnet.
Now, remember the spool is continuous and here's where there's a slight twist on this. This entire process is applied to every section of the spool, in the tiniest molecule, throughout the entire diameter of the spool and it is constant.
The last but very important difference is this, in the conventional reel breaking systems the physical force remains the same on the cast control side and the centrifugal force on the other side has to compensate. At a pint in time the centrifugal force falls below the required speed to be effective and this normally creates the overwinds as the cast control is not perfectly set.
With the magnet system, the higher the speed of the moving conductive material (revolving spool) the higher the voltage of the "Eddy's", the stronger the magnetic force filed around the "Eddy's" the stronger the effect. As the spool slows down, so does the amount of "Eddy's" being generated/induced in the spool, resulting in a weaker force field fighting against that of the magnets and so on and so on and this is what makes the system so ultra smooth and so effective. It never applies more or less resistance (Force field around the "Eddy currents" than what is required to slow down the spool) and yes, it cannot therefore (in theory, if it is set correctly) allow for an overwind. Even if the spool speed is changed in rather quick and large increments.
What You Will NeedThe reel I used is a Shimano Corvalus 400. You can however apply this tutorial to almost all suitable multiplier reels as the concept/s remain the same.
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1. Neodymium magnets (I suggest getting either the disc or washer type as they come in a larger variety of sizes, diameters and thicknesses
2. Adhesive (epoxy is recommended although I used "super glue"
3. Tools to open and close your specific multiplier
4. Steel plating, the thinner the better (I used small diameter washers)
5. Plasticized clay (children's play clay)
6. Measuring devices, ruler or fernier if you really want to get technical
Where to StartTake your reel and set up on the rod, yeah, nuts! I know, just do it! rig a weight of a certain, well, weight. Get to a place where you can cast it. NOW Cast, and if that was a great cast, mark your cast control button's position.(You will need this later)
When you get home, remove the line from the rod and stick the tag end down onto the reel with some adhesive tape. Check the marking on the cast control button. Now spin the spool as hard as you can and time it until it stops. Record this time!
1. Pull the line out of the rod, wrap around the spool and secure the tag end with some tape. Open the reel and identify the best position inside the reel to place the magnets. Keeping in mind that you would preferably have two areas on the same side but opposite each other. Say one set at 12 o'clock and the other at 6 o'clock but both on one side of the reel.
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In this case I could only really make use of the right hand side (RHS) as there's some gears at the other end, that I could not yet get to.
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NB: When identifying a suitable place for the installation keep the following in mind:]b]
1. ]b]The magnets must preferably be as far away from the spool shaft as possible (the spool spins much faster on the edges as opposed to the center.
2. ]b]That the magnets must be installed in such an area that should you need to add more steel plates/washers to be able to have the magnets as close to the spool surface as possible, that you will be able to do so. You might start off with one thick magnet, and it is too much, then try a thinner thickness magnet but build up the gap with steel plate/washers. Remember the magnets should however not touch the spool wall/surface!]u]
2. Once you have identified the area, roll at least two (2) small balls of play clay and press them down on the spool wall. Make sure they stay in place.
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This is important as you do not want them falling off the intended area as they will get compressed when you close the reel, and they might just get into gear's etc. Now, making sure the clay stays in place close the reel and be mindful of the shaft. Line up the side plate and bring it into contact with the clay balls. Press down in an even manner all round the diameter of the reel side plate and close the reel completely. Yes as much as it is supposed to when it is in use.
NB: Be mindful that if the clay is cold, it will be hard to compress, do not put excessive force on the side plate to get it to close, rather remove the clay, heat it up in your hands and replace on the spool wall.
Open up the reel after you have closed it with the clay balls inside and pull the side plate from the reel.
NB: Be careful as the possibility is huge that the spool will be joined to the side plate by means of the clay balls and will be dragged out of the reel frame too.
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3. Once you have separated the spool and side plate, remove the compressed clay discs and either place them on a flat surface and measure or use the ruler to measure the width. I used the magnets I had to gauge the distance I have between the RHS plate and the spool wall, I know the thickness of the magnets.
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REMEMBER TO INCLUDE THE THICKNESS OF THE STEEL MOUNTING PLATE TO AMOUNT TO THE OVERALL SPACE !!!!
4. Take the adhesive and apply small amounts (if you are not sure and would want to move the steel plates/washers) or sufficient amounts if you are certain and stick it down in the area that you have identified. This is why I used super glue, I was able to apply very small droplets and I could remove the washers and reinstall in a slightly different area.
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Now the fun starts!
Remember the silly first portion of where to start? Yes the cast and timing the spin of the spool. What was the time? Right!
Now you can start installing the smallest magnets you have and close the reel.
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Make sure you install one magnet with the + to the top and the opposing magnet with it's - towards the top.
Spin time and repeat, until you get to a configuration close to the time you recorded when you started. this way it will save you lot of time trying to figure out which next to install. Remember to make sure if you use various thicknesses that you DO NOT EXCEED THE SPACE YOU HAVE ]b]or for that matter not add additional spacers to fill up the space!!!!!
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Please, feel free to add, or comment should you want to change something, Please also Give Credit Where it is DUE,
Mr. BAUMANNATOR's idea, I just did the tut.
