ULTIMATE ANGLING - the Ultimate SA Fishing website
FRESHWATER ANGLING => Fly fishing => Topic started by: Rory on November 03, 2011, 10:14:24 AM
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(http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq6/gizamos_2009/illustration1.jpg)
Short line Nymphing
This post is a guideline to flyfishing for Yellowfish and Mudfish on the Vaal river. The techniques outlined here are by no means the only way to successfully flyfish the Vaal but will hopefully help out the novice getting started - this post is by no means the definitive guide! We will be looking at the technique known as "short line nymphing" to target fish on or near the bottom of the river.
Where do fish hold:
One of the major factors that needs to be taken into account is where the fish are holding in the river, which is usually determined by the flow of the water. For the majority of the time most fish will be holding on or near the bottom of the river. The main reason for this is the flow of the water is much faster and stronger near the surface of the river, which means the fish will be expending unnecessary energy trying to hold here. On the bottom of the river the flow of the water is far slower due to friction and obstacles suach as rocks and stumps. Therefore the fish prefer to hold on or near the bottom as they expend less energy against the slower flow.
(http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq6/gizamos_2009/illustration1.jpg)
More specific lies, surface feeding etc. and where to look for fish, will be covered in a later post.
Strong currents and small flies:
Theres an old saying when fishing the vaal which holds true here: "If you're not hooking up on the bottom, you're not fishing in the right place!"
So the main objective is to try and fish with the flies as close to the bottom of the river as possible. 2 things to consider here: Weighting the flies and leader diameter. The most effective way to get flies down to the required depth is to weight them. Most specialist flyshops will sell flies that have been tied using either lead underbodies or tungsten beads, or both. These flies are extremely effective in getting to the river bottom quickly and effectively.
If you battle to find Heavily weighted flies, then something to definately consider in your arsenal is splithot, its quick and easy to add, and you can control the weight needed or weight to be removed.
The thickness or diameter of your leader can also drastically affect the sinking rate of the flies. Ideally you need to balance a small diameter to a high breaking strain mono. The thicker the leader the slower the sink rate of your flies. Be careful of going too light on the breaking strain, not only is it easy to lose fish, but you can snap off the flies when you hook up on the bottom. Due to the fact that you don't need to cast more than 5 or so metres, its not necessary to used a shop bought tapered leader, a straight section of mono is more than adequate. Leader setups are covered next.
Typical leader setup:
A general rule of thumb is to use a section of mono about as long as you flyrod. This length will allow you to adjust the position of the strike indicator to cover most differing depths of water you will encounter. Its important to use a strike indicator that is bouyant enough not to be dragged underwater by the flies. The most popular method of attaching flies to the leader, is to use what is known as the "new zealand' method. Two flies are attached, one heavy fly to control the depth (this is called the control fly) and a second unweighted fly hitching a ride down. (this second fly is called the point fly)
(http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq6/gizamos_2009/leader1r.jpg)
Placement of the strike indicator will help you to control the depth at which the control fly will drift. As a general rule its best to have one and a half times the depth of the water distance between the strike indicator and the control fly.
(http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq6/gizamos_2009/illustration3.jpg)
Two factors to take into account when adjusting the position of the strike indicator: Speed of the water flow and depth. Faster and deeper water, you will need to move the indicator further away from the control fly. Slower and shallower water move the strike indicator closer to the control fly. Very often you will feel the control fly "tap" the rocks on the bottom.
Too short a distance between the strike indicator and control fly:
(http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq6/gizamos_2009/illustration4short.jpg)
Too big a distance between the strike indicator and control fly:
(http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq6/gizamos_2009/illustration4long.jpg)
Perfect distance between the strike indicator and control fly:
(http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq6/gizamos_2009/illustration4correct.jpg)
A very good point to remember when trying to determine if your flies are in the "zone" is to watch the speed of the strike indicator while it is drifting. The strike indicator will always drift at the speed of the flies under the water, so ideally your strike indicator must be drifting slower than all the bubbles and debris on the surface. If you keep on hooking the bottom reduce the distance between the strike indicator and the control fly, a few centimetres at a time. Cast a metre or two above the section of water that you want to drift your flies through. This will allow the flies time to sink, so they will be drifting through the required zone at the correct depth.
When you are happy that your flies are in the correct zone, keep your eyes peeled and watch the strike indicator like a hawk. Any unnatural movement of the strike indicator can indicate a take: a brief slowing down or acceleration, dipping under the surface, movement to the sides, or if you really lucky sometimes the fish will hammer the fly and the indicator will race off!
Happy Nymphing!
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(clap) Great article. :+ cred:
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Brilliant post!!! :win:
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:+ cred: ...great info>>> :tkx:
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I'm not a flyfisher, but really enjoyed reading this article.
:shre: :+ cred:
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Quality post Rory! ++cred
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:FST:
Awesome post Rory !
:+ cred:
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:shre: :+ cred:
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Lekker post Rory, I hope a couple of guys will add to the mass of info you have posted so far.
No tapered leaders are used just straight mono of about 10lb for both leaders and main line however 6lb can be used on the smaller flies to give a bit more movement.
I've started putting my heaveyer fly at the back and smaller flies in front of it. Makes the setup much more sensetive as you do not have much dead line on your point fly.
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Brilliant post ! Double cred ! (clap)
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Ah, the Yellowfish Professor strikes again fshg :+ cred:
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Mein Gott Herr Barnes!! fantastic post. :+ cred:
Just what we needed here, a nice and concise how to on the Basics, I am sure this will help many more chaps get on to the river and pull a yellow or two. Well done sir!
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Thanks guys, glad you like! Next up I'll do something on czech/straight mono nymphing!
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Thanks guys, glad you like! Next up I'll do something on czech/straight mono nymphing!
:hyst:
Wouldnt mind a Czech Nymph !
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Thanks guys, glad you like! Next up I'll do something on czech/straight mono nymphing!
:hyst:
Wouldnt mind a Czech Nymph !
Can you straight nymph or are you too scared to open your mouth in the presence of the Nymph? :vio
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Very informative !! :+ cred:
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Excellent post Rory! (clap) :rck"
I agree with Monster about making "trailer" fly the heaviest and the lighter/smaller fly in front of it as it helps reduce slack line/angles in the setup. I also prefer to use droppers rather than the standard NZ rig. The thin diameter leader/tippet helps big time in getting the flies down. I use either 0.2mm (4.2kg) or 0.178mm (3.3kg) and have not been snapped off yet.
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What an amzing article Rory, that is such an enjoyable technique, what would be your favourite nymphs for fishing the Vaal?
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Not into fly fishing (one day!), but really enjoyed this post!
Brilliant! +cred!
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Nice article, when I was fly fishing competively we were not allowed to use strike indicators, but could use a dropper fly, we were also not allowed to tie the New Zealand Rig that you showed. I knwo it makes no difference but just though I would mention it.
A very effective method not just for yellows but also trout, especially browns.
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Nice article, when I was fly fishing competively we were not allowed to use strike indicators, but could use a dropper fly, we were also not allowed to tie the New Zealand Rig that you showed. I knwo it makes no difference but just though I would mention it.
A very effective method not just for yellows but also trout, especially browns.
Any idea why that would be?? Really not being funny, just curious? Considering the norm is now czech nymphing in world competition? Does the new zealand rig over more benefits than a czech rig with say 3 flies?? Not Directed at mike in particular, but there maybe some competitive fly guys out there?
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Nice article, when I was fly fishing competively we were not allowed to use strike indicators, but could use a dropper fly, we were also not allowed to tie the New Zealand Rig that you showed. I knwo it makes no difference but just though I would mention it.
A very effective method not just for yellows but also trout, especially browns.
Any idea why that would be?? Really not being funny, just curious? Considering the norm is now czech nymphing in world competition? Does the new zealand rig over more benefits than a czech rig with say 3 flies?? Not Directed at mike in particular, but there maybe some competitive fly guys out there?
Greg, the NZ rig is just the way the flies are attached by tying the line onto the bend of the hook, for the rest it is all the same, in other words when czech nymphing you have your 3 flys, tied to hang off the main line, you could use a NZ rig to czech nymph by tying each fly to the other. The reason we were given is that the NZ rig gives the angler an unfair advantage: why I have no clue.
For short line nymphing it is exactly the same, the flys must hang of a main line like "Yozuris" and not be tied in a line
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Mike is right, I've never flyfished competitively so I can't say why it isn't allowed. Hmmmm..... this is a perfect opportunity to start a new thread on tying different leaders that will give the same effect as the NZ rig.
Give me an hour or three.... w;k
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Thanks for sharing Rory, it's been a long time since i wet a fly line in the vaal, you making me liss.. (clap)
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Great post Rory. + cred.
As you know I have simplifird my lesder/dropper set up, but my graphics skills are non existant.
Maybe you could do the graphics of :
Fly line leader connection, perfection loop, loop to loop.
Leader length around 6 ft to a perfection loop tied with a long tag of around 8 inches. Tie the control fly on to this tag end at about 4 inches from the loop.
Take another piece of line about 500mm long. Perfection loop the one end, and join to the loop on the leader via loop to loop. Tie your point fly on the end of this extension.
It's very quick and easy, and can be modified to suit your own preferene.
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Great article Rory,
I just have one or two question here. When you do switch your point fly and control fly around, to reduce the tension in the leader setup, does the mono, attached to the bend of the "point fly', not reduce your hookup rate.
If your point fly and control fly is swapped around. does the "point" fly then not move naturally, as it would have when it was at the point?
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......does the mono, attached to the bend of the "point fly', not reduce your hookup rate.
Reduce, probably. But stopping hookups entirely, definitely not. Fishing is very much a confidence thing, if it bugs you change the setup!! The rig Herman outlined above is a simple and effective way to fish a similar system without tying the point fly onto the bend. Remember nothing is carved in stone!
If your point fly and control fly is swapped around. does the "point" fly then not move naturally, as it would have when it was at the point?
The plot thickens!! Now you need to get a balance between all the flies on your leader. Try adding a third fly, spread the weight between the flies to try and get all the flys to drift mor naturally. Of course a lot will depend on the speed of the current and the depth of the fish. You might have to sacrifice natural movement on one fly to get the other flies down.
There probably isnt one rig, or method of fly placement, that will suit all fishing conditions, be adaptable to the situation you're fishing!
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Reduce, probably. But stopping hookups entirely, definitely not. Fishing is very much a confidence thing, if it bugs you change the setup!! The rig Herman outlined above is a simple and effective way to fish a similar system without tying the point fly onto the bend. Remember nothing is carved in stone!
I know the leader setup that Herman refers to, I have fished with Herman and he showed me this rig. To date this is the only rig I have fished with. I have not actually considered using a NZ rig for yellows on the Vaal
Thank you for the response.
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Wow great post. So much info and loads to learn. :tkx:
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In lower, slower flows, irrespective of which leader / dropper set up you use, do away with the heavy control fly, and fish either 2 or 3 "normal" # 12 - 16 flies of your choice , each with a tungsten bead of around 1.5mm dia.
Depending on your cast, i.e. landing your team parallel with the surface they will all sink at the same rate. This gives every fish in the same depth 2 or 3 looks at something to eat.
Popping the point fly in with a tuck cast ( stopping the line feed short ) will mean different depths of the flies, slowly descending during the drift. Very usefull in slow deepish glides after a "tail out " from a pool.