ULTIMATE ANGLING - the Ultimate SA Fishing website
General Angling Topics => Saltwater Lure Angling => Topic started by: Spinnerman on September 19, 2013, 08:57:23 AM
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Shore and Boat based Spinning Clinic by Barry Wareham
Venue: Basil Manning Springfield
Date: 25th September 2013
Time: 18h00
Bookings essential call 031262372 ext 102
Off The Chart Show tackle & shop soiled clearance specials will start after the clinic and run for 3 days only. While stocks last.
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looking forward to this
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spinnerman you got your number wrong its 0312632372
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Good one
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Would love to attend these but a bit too far for me. :envy :-(
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Thank you Barry for a very good presentation....and for taking the time as well to do this.
Was very informative.
Some very good deals as well....
Please tell us who won the rod :)
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Thank you Barry for a very good presentation....and for taking the time as well to do this.
Was very informative.
Some very good deals as well....
Please tell us who won the rod :)
Agreed - a great evening - I wish that I had taken notes - maybe one day Barry will write up his talk and post it on UA!
I went to the previous presentation a few years back - and have still been using what he showed us then - but, things have moved on - looks like I am going to have to buy a new rod, change my braids, get new lures etc etc......I see a bout of tackle addiction coming on!
It was interesting to hear about the salt crystals that can destroy braid - my knots have been breaking when tying knots, Barry reckons its the salt crystals in the braid. Anyone had a similar problem?
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Great clinic, thanks Barry (for the clinic not the hole i burnt in my pocket after!)..
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Barry, thanks for a very insightful clinic and a whole lot of new ideas to go and try!
I did not realise that there were so many Durban based UA members at the clinic... we could have had an impromptu social! Next time!
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Someone give us binnelanders a quick summary... pleeeeez!
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Someone give us binnelanders a quick summary... pleeeeez!
:happ: yes please...not a binnelander but would also love to hear some info please... :tkx:
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Thank you Barry for a very good presentation....and for taking the time as well to do this.
Was very informative.
Some very good deals as well....
Please tell us who won the rod :)
Turns out my dentist won the rod, was extremely complimentary of the clinic!!
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Someone give us binnelanders a quick summary... pleeeeez!
I should have taken notes - but what stands out in my mind is the following:
He described various rods and their uses (surf, boat etc.) and the best kinds for each facet and type of fish.
I learnt that the best for surf spinning is a 11ft with microwave eyes which give greater distance. Best to have soft tip and good backbone
Get the best reels you can ( SHIMANO!!!! No need to give detail here!) But he did mention Daiwa as a second best – and also a couple of other reels. For spinning of the beach, 5000 is a good size. I may be mistaken but he also said that there is a 6000 coming out as well.
Braid should be talked about in PE units – not breaking strength, it is more meaningful and accurate (US standard is breaking strain, but braid is not always the same in terms of diameter, and stated breaking strains are never accurate.)
Braid that is usually 4 strands or less are “flat” braids and not as good as 8 strand braid which is “round” and much smoother and stronger – also cast further – and is more expensive of course. See this http://oceanbluefishing.com.UA/2010/06/24/pe-rating-fishing-line-diameter-chart/ (http://oceanbluefishing.com.UA/2010/06/24/pe-rating-fishing-line-diameter-chart/)
If braid is not properly washed after use in the salt – it will form crystals inside the braid and will weaken it
Use the PR knot for braid to flouro – because it is a “grab” knot and not a clinch type (RESEARCH AND A TUT PLEASE REEFMAN!)
Always use wire – best is kinky wire - Use fig 8 for kinky wire to swivel/hook
For kinky to flouro use an Albright (finished off with knotsense). He has a variation on the Albright - make a small loop with the flouro standing line through the “eye” made by the kinky wire and pass the tag endof the flouro through that (after wrapping around the doubled kinky as per usual Albright)
for tying kinky etc see Knot 2 Kinky by Goya Trading South Africa (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=dgBx0vjr6mg#)
Use a weak and strong split ring . Mainline tied to swivel on a strong split ring with hook – and then a weak split ring to the lure. While a fish is on and the lure gets stuck on a rock or is attached by another fish, then the weak split ring will break leaving your fish on the hook
Use a leader with split ring on the end – and change terminal tackle by attaching to split ring. Also means you don’t shorten your leader each time you change a lure – never take it off unless you have to, reel it into spool after fishing and use a line holder.
Keep spare spools in small Tupperware container and mark what line is in there and what leader. Spare spools useful so as not to waste time changing leaders etc. when the fish are on the bite
Average cast is 120-130m with a spoon, 30 – 40 m with a stickbait – but 100m is good enough usually
He went through spoons and lures and explained their various uses and in what conditions, retrieves etc. (see his post on this)
Use skirts on stinger hook on spoons (also for jigging from the beach)
Glow in the dark is good, but dont try and make it brighter with a torch, scares the fish
We will be seeing more UV type lures - colours that reflect UV light, attractive to fish
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I am sure others that were there can add more information
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thanks a lot for your effort... :yipee: :+ cred: only thing is that you typed..."use a leader with a split-ring tied to the end,and change terminal tackle by attaching to split ring..." didn't you meen to type "...leader with a swivel tied to it..."?I use a swivel at the end of my leader too...and attach swivel to lures' split-ring with s/r pliers...interesting knot with the"knot so kinky"wire...and skirt on stinger hooks makes sense too...maby for flash or movement... :dunno: and the one strong and one weak s/r...would that mainly be the size of the s/r...? :dunno: what makes a s/r weaker than the other...?Very interesting from one of the best if not the best artificial lure anglers in S.A... :happ: :shd: :yft: :grk: :gt: :dor: :cout: :wahoo:
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I should have taken notes - but what stands out in my mind is the following:
:tkx: :+ cred:
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Thanks Ziggy for going to the trouble... :+ cred:
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Sho Ziggy. .. that is a very good summary! Will see if I can add anything a bit later on
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thanks a lot for your effort... :yipee: :+ cred: only thing is that you typed..."use a leader with a split-ring tied to the end,and change terminal tackle by attaching to split ring..." didn't you meen to type "...leader with a swivel tied to it..."?I use a swivel at the end of my leader too...and attach swivel to lures' split-ring with s/r pliers...interesting knot with the"knot so kinky"wire...and skirt on stinger hooks makes sense too...maby for flash or movement... :dunno: and the one strong and one weak s/r...would that mainly be the size of the s/r...? :dunno: what makes a s/r weaker than the other...?Very interesting from one of the best if not the best artificial lure anglers in S.A... :happ: :shd: :yft: :grk: :gt: :dor: :cout: :wahoo:
correct about the swivel!
I dont remember the sizes of the Split rings - but the stronger one is a bigger one
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Excellent Summary Ziggy!
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Use the PR knot for braid to flouro – because it is a “grab” knot and not a clinch type (RESEARCH AND A TUT PLEASE REEFMAN!)
PR Knot... http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=2850.0 (http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=2850.0)
Use the "Josh" version - the 2nd video in that thread.
Used by the Big GT Offshore fishermen. It's the best knot by far, but difficult to do on a boat or in the wind for a novice.
You could attach your leader at home fairly easy, but if you lose a leader it can be difficult to re-do on the beach in the wind, especially with a flame needed.
My go to knot on the beach is the 7 turn Uni-Fig 8 ....
http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=73.0 (http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=73.0)
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Use the PR knot for braid to flouro – because it is a “grab” knot and not a clinch type (RESEARCH AND A TUT PLEASE REEFMAN!)
PR Knot... http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=2850.0 (http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=2850.0)
Use the "Josh" version - the 2nd video in that thread.
Used by the Big GT Offshore fishermen. It's the best knot by far, but difficult to do on a boat or in the wind for a novice.
You could attach your leader at home fairly easy, but if you lose a leader it can be difficult to re-do on the beach in the wind, especially with a flame needed.
My go to knot on the beach is the 7 turn Uni-Fig 8 ....
http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=73.0 (http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=73.0)
Thanks Reefs
Barry also said that the Slim Beauty is a reasonably good knot for quick tying - and for those who struggle with complev knots - he mentioned it because it is a "grab" knot.
I asked about the 7 turn uni-fig 8. He said it was not a grab knot and not that great - however, it is my go to knot ever since you posted it.
he mentioned another grab knot, but i did not get its name
He said grab knots work like bimini knots
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I will try not to, but will probably repeat some of what Ziggy summarised:
Barry's connection between leader and lure/hook consists of two power swivels on a #4 or higher split ring. The one swivel connects to the leader/mainline and the assist hook is connected to the second swivel. This forms the main connection. The lure (he uses this configuration on spoons and some plugs) is connected to the stronger split ring with a weaker / smaller sized split ring. The reasons for this set up is that (1) the assist hook on a swivel connected to the strong split ring provides a much better range and freedom of motion. (2) If you hook into a fish that is prone to head shakes and jumping, the weaker split ring will give way and the fish is less likely to shake the hook and (3) should you hook a fish in an environment with lots of competition where another fish is likely to grab onto the lure, you will loose the lure rather the fish and probably your whole rig.
Another thing that stood out is that with the new tackle technology, we should be putting on the maximum pressure your tackle will allow throughout the fight. If I remember correct, the reason is that with the super fast action of modern rods, and directness of braid, even the slightest hesitation could introduce enough slack for the fish to shake the hook. For me, an added benefit if this is that if you release a fish played like this, it stands a better chance of survival, and if it is going to the pan, and you kill it immediately upon landing, you will have a better meat quality due to lower levels of stress hormones and lactic acid buildup in the muscle tissues.
Another thing is to always use super sharp hooks and check them regularly. A common mistake he pointed out was that a lot of guys pulls in a spoon over the sand with the hook often digging into the sand, thus dulling the tip. Try and keep the lure as high as possible at the end of the retrieve and lift it out of the water rather than drag it over the beach.
Barry prefer to use a short length of wire on his leader, alway making use of the new titanium leader wires like kinky wire. He generally uses 35lb wire on lighter outfits up to 45lb on heavier outfits. He did mention that you might get fewer strikes with the wire leader, but you have a better chance of landing toothy fish like Queen mackerel.
Asked about leaders, Barry indicated that he always make use of fluorocarbon leader material. With the lengths used for leaders these days, it is not as expensive as it may seem. He recommends a leader length that will allow as long a drop as you are comfortable casting, but without the knot entering the guides. In terms of using a thicker braid as leader...: It can be used, but if you use it that way, the best option is to "stitch" the two braids rather than tying a knot. He mentioned that this is rather difficult with the braid diameters used in spinning, and he also does not like the two tag ends resulting from such a stitch. He recommends securing the tag ends (and most knots for that matter) with something like knot sense. When using knot sense on braid, he will actually try and work the resin into the braid before curing it.
I hope that this combined with Ziggy's input will give the "binnelanders" and co some of the inside info we were privileged to.
Although I have not been too successful at this apart from Shad Shad Shad... it still is a fun, healthy and clean way of fishing, that allows quick short sessions when necessary that I find extremely enjoyable. Just being able to cast a small lure stupid distances and the anticipation of hooking into a game fish from shore keeps me coming back for more. It really clears my head as I am constantly trying to figure the fish out, strategizing about where to cast and what retrieve to try next.
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Thanks for the info guys.
I tested the FG or Gat knot on friday for braid to leader.
Works the same principle as the PR knot just a lot easier and no bobbin required.
Then a question.
I want to keep using stinger hooks but there are a good chance of picking up cuta and they will slice through the stinger in no time.
Can I use a short wire to make a stinger on a plug and will fish like queen fish be put off by the wire?
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Gerhard... I actually followed up that exact question...
" I do tend to use wire a lot when fishing for toothed fish. I use quite a heavy piano wire, like a No. 8 and I rig it stiff to the swivel and the hook. A lot of people find this very difficult to do, so one can use cable, either coated or not coated. The breaking strain would obviously depend on how one is going to be pulling. On our normal shore game rigs I would recommend 40lb to 60lb. It is much easier to stiff-rig this and then use crimps to secure. When fishing for bottom feeding fish I use either a Kevlar or standard braid. It must be hollow core."
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Thanks Andre,
I did a stinger last night almost the same but no clips...
Will test on friday and see what happens
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Thanks for the feedback guys! :+ cred:
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Some comments from recent experiences:
I have binned my "knot to kinky" due to multiple failures on the figure of eight knot tied to jighead/lure.
I have landed 10 snoek from 6 - 9kg on a 85mm onda onda using 44lb fluoro without a bite off in the last week. You have to check your leader for nicks after every fish though.
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thanks so much to everyone that gave reports on this thread...much appreciated and will deffinately be a thread to come back to to refresh ones' ideas and experiences... :bow: :resp: :tkx:
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I did a stinger last night almost the same but no clips...
Will test on friday and see what happens
Hi Gerhard here is a easy way to replace the original stinger. Barry show it to me one day at his shop and work like a BOM !
You only need two split rings and a power swivel.The new stinger also folds away when you cast,lying flat on the plugs body
and the plug is more steady during the cast ... "CID"
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I did a stinger last night almost the same but no clips...
Will test on friday and see what happens
Hi Gerhard here is a easy way to replace the original stinger. Barry show it to me one day at his shop and work like a BOM !
You only need two split rings and a power swivel.The new stinger also folds away when you cast,lying flat on the plugs body
and the plug is more steady during the cast ... "CID"
Thanks!
This was one of the options was planning to test on Friday!!
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Some comments from recent experiences:
I have binned my "knot to kinky" due to multiple failures on the figure of eight knot tied to jighead/lure.
I have landed 10 snoek from 6 - 9kg on a 85mm onda onda using 44lb fluoro without a bite off in the last week. You have to check your leader for nicks after every fish though.
I also ditched the "knot to kinky" had one too many break-offs at the figure 8 knot, made my own little contraption with normal no.#3 steel wire + no.#10 swivels + small clip...seems to do the trick...no bite offs.