ULTIMATE ANGLING - the Ultimate SA Fishing website
General Angling Topics => Shore Angling => THE GRINDER REVOLUTION => Topic started by: fishy1969 on July 12, 2013, 07:25:42 AM
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Good morning guys,
I need some assistance please. I bought an Avocast 8000, an Asassin medium for a trip to Bhanga Nek. The rod is fitted with a bionic finger. I found that when I cast, the bail arm of the reel sometimes flipped over resulting in the braid snapping at the leader. I know that I am not touching the handle or the bail arm during the cast. Am wondering if the transfer of momentum from the tip can do this? I am one very frustrated angler at the moment!
Regards
Gavin
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Try manually turning the bail arm once you have "gripped" the braid to another position before you cast. What sometimes happens is the bail arm is sitting on top of the reel ready to snap shut as soon as you crank, shifting the bail arm to the bottom position might fix the problem?
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Thanks Chigger, I was trying to alter the position constantly.....think I need to go ask Barry for a casting lesson or 2! Lol
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Gavin try flipping the bail arm from the right side to the left.
Or better still flip the bail over and turn the spool until the bail flips further. It usefully clips in better their.( sweet spot )
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This is a problem with many reels that have an Auto Bail feature. The Auto Bail is caused by the Bail trip lever striking the Rotor brake block. In some reels, if you cast without the Rotor brake engaged by the Bail trip lever, then the handle can move during the cast, providing enough Rotor momentum to trip the bail when the Trip lever strikes the Rotor block.
DISABLE THE AUTO BAIL feature
To get around this problem, just permanently remove the Bail Trip lever. You will never lose another lure on the cast again! You will need to manually click the bail arm over, but that's good too, because auto bail over is one of the biggest causes of Wind knots. Most of the top end Spinning reels now have auto bail feature completely removed from the reel.
On the Line roller side of the Rotor... this will work in almost all fixed spool reels...
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/sustain/Bail%201.jpg)
(There might be another small screw underneath the Rotor as well.)
Take the Bail trip lever out completely.
Leave the Bail spring in place!!
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/sustain/Bail%203.jpg)
What the Bail trip lever looks like... On the RIGHT.
This is a pic of the Bail spring and the Lever removed. Do not remove the Bail spring, leave it in place. Just take the Trip lever out.
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/sustain/Bail%206.jpg)
Screw the cover back on and away you go.
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Ah thanks Reefs......gonna do that right now!
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reefs the "reel master" to the rescue!! :+ cred:
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Ok editted the pics above. Might have been confusing...
DO NOT remove the Bail spring, just the Bail trip lever!
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(clap) Good advice-thanks Tony.
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Ok editted the pics above. Might have been confusing...
DO NOT remove the Bail spring, just the Bail trip lever!
:corrct: :corrct: :corrct: :win:
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fISHY, did you come right?
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Hi Reefs,
I have not been able to get onto it yet....will only be able to do so next week....will def let you know!
Many thanks
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No need for them in reels over a 3000 size shimi in my opinion. :cg:
For my primary application anyway...
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I had the same problem a year or two ago but thanks to the info on :ult: I got it all sorted out. :uarocks
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Ok editted the pics above. Might have been confusing...
DO NOT remove the Bail spring, just the Bail trip lever!
Most reels have a "ramp" under the rotor that trips the bail on most reels its removable I'd say its the better thing to remove.
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if you remove the Rotor theres generally a rubber band/o-ring that runs around the outside of the AR bearing housing the piece of wire Reefman is referring to pushes into this rubber to hold the rotor in place, if you recently serviced your reel and the ring is oily it won't have the friction necessary to prevent it slipping and tripping the bail arm.
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Ok editted the pics above. Might have been confusing...
DO NOT remove the Bail spring, just the Bail trip lever!
Most reels have a "ramp" under the rotor that trips the bail on most reels its removable I'd say its the better thing to remove.
True Cam, ive had to place a little counter weigh in some reela, as removing that trip wire has put the rotor off balance.
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Ya removing the Rotor brake would also work, it's just more difficult to do because you usually have to remove the Anti-reverse bearing to get at the Rotor brake screw.
The obvious thing to try first is this:
Ready to cast, Hold the line and clip the bail arm over. Now turn the Rotor until it won't go anymore - this is when the Bail trip lever gets stopped on the Brake block ramp. Now the handle and the Rotor cannot move and the bail won't trip.
In this position, the bail arm will be facing to the left and the line roller will be at the bottom of the reel. Casting like this should solve most problems.
If your bail arm still flips, then there is a problem - then the more radical treatment to remove the bail trip lever (easy) or remove the Rotor brake (more difficult) will be necessary.
The other thing guys overseas do is to take a Dremel and cut a piece of the Bail trip lever off so it doesn't engage the bail spring inside the reel. Haven't tried this... sounds a bit hectic! I heard there is a Youtube vid on this. If anyone has the URL, I'd like to see it.
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Its this doohicky here that you would have to remove a decent file would do it.
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Turning the bail to the left before the cast solved the problem for me.
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Never had this problem before, are your using a bioni cab finger?
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It happens on some reels whether you use a Bionic finger or not.
On my most recent trip, it started happening with my Ultegra 5500. Cast 2 brand new perfectly made traces into oblivion, one after the other... swr
Was so annoyed, I spent an afternoon opening up all my grinders and removing every single Bail trip lever out of all my reels. No more snap offs mid cast. Stradic, Sustain, Aerlex, Sedona, Ultegra, Exceler... the only one that didn't have a Bail trip lever was the Bullseye!
Made it so that I don't have to rely on my memory (to turn the spool round) anymore. Now it's Reefman proof.
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This is something I've been meaning to tackle for some time now... On my last Lazarus trip, I had many inadvertent bail closures. It was on a Stella (old model but first time I'd used it). Bear in mind, a Stella doesn't have a bail trip mechanism. Been meaning to open the bail pivot point up and look to see if there's not something amiss there, or maybe something I could tweak to get the bail to lock open more positively.
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The older Stellas do have bail trip levers! Even the FA version had bail trip levers. It's the only thing that can cause bail closure without manually bumping it.
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Nah Tony, mine is the 2008 18kSW (silver and gold) and I have compared the resistance between it and my 2014 Stella and the 2014 is a much more positive "click over" (for want of a better description)... I just have to open it up and find out why. It could be that the spring has lost strength. I'll get to it before the next trip though.
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The Stella(12k??) that I used never had a bail trip from new. :dunno:
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ya the Bail trip lever was removed from the SW models onwards.