Author Topic: Shimano Trinidad 30A - Service and maintenance tutorial (Read 40162 times)

christosch · « **Reply #20 on:** July 24, 2014, 09:01:49 AM »

Unfortunately not Tony, will do a quick respool next week and hook up the line counter.
Sorry

doc · « **Reply #21 on:** July 24, 2014, 09:12:40 AM »

On my 30A I have 500m of 50lb whiplash and between 160 and 175m of 0.5mm DoubleX.

Definetly not the same line capacity as the gold TN30.

REEFMAN · « **Reply #22 on:** July 24, 2014, 09:28:12 AM »

Thanks Doc. How do you find casting with this reel?

doc · « **Reply #23 on:** July 24, 2014, 09:48:24 AM »

I have had a few issues at the start it likes to fluff a bit right at the apex of the sinker flight that you need to be aware off if you really trying to push it.

So a bit more intervention is required than one would with a Daiwa with it cast brakes installed.

kleinvis · « **Reply #24 on:** January 19, 2015, 01:02:41 AM »

Quote from: REEFMAN on July 09, 2014, 03:10:22 PM

Cool beans...

Did you get the sizes??? Im in need of the bearing size under the cast control cap.....Do you have the complete set sizes?...............

Cam Mundy · « **Reply #25 on:** January 19, 2015, 07:10:40 AM »

I found this picture interesting. the drag plate doesn't cover the entire drag washer would a self fabricated drag plate not up the drag a bit and also apply more even pressure throughout the drag stack?

REEFMAN · « **Reply #26 on:** January 19, 2015, 07:27:19 AM »

It's been shown that Drag force generated is not a function of Surface area. Rather, the force applied to them, the composition, number and thickness are the critical factors. So making that top metal washer bigger will do nothing except make the reel heavier.

Cam Mundy · « **Reply #27 on:** January 19, 2015, 07:36:36 AM »

Quote from: REEFMAN on January 19, 2015, 07:27:19 AM

It's been shown that Drag force generated is not a function of Surface area. Rather, the force applied to them, the composition, number and thickness are the critical factors. So making that top metal washer bigger will do nothing except make the reel heavier.

I would have thought surface area would be important as you could generate more friction at lower pressures with more surface area and have a smoother drag with less start up inertia hence the keying of drag washers to effectively double surface area?

REEFMAN · « **Reply #28 on:** January 19, 2015, 07:38:26 AM »

Bigger is not always better

It has been postulated recently that the formulae for Drag friction has very little to do with Drag washer Surface area. The greatest function determining the force of the Drag is the actual force that is applied to the Drag stack by the Star Drag or Lever Drag. So when looking for a reel with good Drag, it's not the number of washers or the size that count, but rather their composition, thickness and ability to be compressed without dramatic deformation and heat build up.

Cam Mundy · « **Reply #29 on:** January 19, 2015, 07:53:03 AM »

That makes sense especially the part about being able to compress the drag washer material there are a few reels out there (spinning) that are vastly improved by changing the drag washer material. the reason I asked is most of the lever drag reels have one really big carbontex washer mounted on the spool with an equal size drag washer while the star drags and spinners rely on small drag stacks and in the spinners everything is of an equal size.

Most salt water fly fishing reels still have Cork drags which is actually amazingly effective but the drag surface area is really large again like the big game lever drag reels.

nm5 · « **Reply #30 on:** January 20, 2015, 01:13:26 PM »

Quote from: REEFMAN on January 19, 2015, 07:38:26 AM

Bigger is not always better
It has been postulated recently that the formulae for Drag friction has very little to do with Drag washer Surface area. The greatest function determining the force of the Drag is the actual force that is applied to the Drag stack by the Star Drag or Lever Drag. So when looking for a reel with good Drag, it's not the number of washers or the size that count, but rather their composition, thickness and ability to be compressed without dramatic deformation and heat build up.

you are a 110% correct here! as far as the line capacity goes you are incorrect sir, the 30A and the trini gold 30 take the same amount of line, down to the last meter..(om te meet is om te weet?)

REEFMAN · « **Reply #31 on:** January 20, 2015, 03:29:37 PM »

Quote from: nm5 on January 20, 2015, 01:13:26 PM

Quote from: REEFMAN on January 19, 2015, 07:38:26 AM
Bigger is not always better
It has been postulated recently that the formulae for Drag friction has very little to do with Drag washer Surface area. The greatest function determining the force of the Drag is the actual force that is applied to the Drag stack by the Star Drag or Lever Drag. So when looking for a reel with good Drag, it's not the number of washers or the size that count, but rather their composition, thickness and ability to be compressed without dramatic deformation and heat build up.
you are a 110% correct here! as far as the line capacity goes you are incorrect sir, the 30A and the trini gold 30 take the same amount of line, down to the last meter..(om te meet is om te weet?)

I'll take your word for it...

nm5 · « **Reply #32 on:** January 20, 2015, 04:01:17 PM »

Quote from: REEFMAN on January 20, 2015, 03:29:37 PM

I'll take your word for it...

looks deceiving i know! we can put a bottle of JW on it?

REEFMAN · « **Reply #33 on:** January 20, 2015, 05:46:07 PM »

You obviously know something I don't, so a wager wouldn't be too clever!

But still, I am skeptical of the claims, would have to see it to actually believe it. I WILL be gobsmacked if they are the same capacity. My right sided brain hemisphere says it's not possible...

HooknCook · « **Reply #34 on:** February 27, 2015, 10:01:52 AM »

Hi Reefman,

I am busy servicing my 30a and sitting with a problem, how do you get that anti-reverse bearing out from the RH casing, I have tried everything and can't get it out, I have actually pushed the middle of the roller bearing out

and now can't get the "sleeve" out.....

Any ideas would be appreciated.....

REEFMAN · « **Reply #35 on:** February 27, 2015, 10:57:04 AM »

In the pic below, you need to remove this ball bearing, by pulling it out.
Underneath it is the Anti-reverse bearing, which must be pushed downwards. You need an L shaped instrument to pop into the groove above the Anti-reverse, push down until it comes out the other side.

This is a pic from the other side.... you need to push it out from the other side (where you see my finger).

This is the type of instrument you need to lever that Bearing out...

HooknCook · « **Reply #36 on:** February 27, 2015, 11:21:45 AM »

Thanks, I tried them use the back of a socket and proceeded to push the rollers out and not the whole bearing, will try a bit harder as they say......will need to get a new anti-reverse bearing....

Legal · « **Reply #37 on:** June 25, 2015, 03:14:08 PM »

Hello Tony,

Have you had a chance to take the new Toriums apart? Looking forward to the Tut

REEFMAN · « **Reply #38 on:** June 25, 2015, 03:44:20 PM »

Nope. not yet. If anyone's got one, I'd love to have a look...

Legal · « **Reply #39 on:** June 28, 2015, 08:06:56 AM »

Thanks for the quick reply, I see Alan has opened it up http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=13334.0

Would love to see the other side and the spool removed. Looks like there's no quick service, a real schlep to take off the star drag and handle just to get to the spool...