Author Topic: Purglass 400/2 Rod Build  (Read 8366 times)

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Offline Mangi

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Re: Purglass 400/2 Rod Build
« Reply #20 on: December 11, 2012, 01:20:13 PM »
Patience and a sharp carpet knife blade.  Clean a 5cm section at a time, don't rush.

Offline Rory

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Re: Purglass 400/2 Rod Build
« Reply #21 on: December 11, 2012, 01:23:18 PM »
Patience and a sharp carpet knife blade.  Clean a 5cm section at a time, don't rush.

Lol, I'll stock up on some blades this afternoon  :corrct: Thanks Mangi! :+ cred:

Offline Mangi

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Re: Purglass 400/2 Rod Build
« Reply #22 on: December 11, 2012, 01:40:02 PM »
Patience and a sharp carpet knife blade.  Clean a 5cm section at a time, don't rush.

Lol, I'll stock up on some blades this afternoon  :corrct: Thanks Mangi! :+ cred:


Cool man, just remember, keep the blade at a 90 degree angle to the blank.  Do not swivel the blade or you run the risk of cutting into the blank and lifting the graphite fibres.

Offline pieta

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Re: Purglass 400/2 Rod Build
« Reply #23 on: December 11, 2012, 01:49:46 PM »
If it is propper flex cat that need to be removed and even pretley clear set, it helps to heat it up abut. Not to much. It will strip of easely with a carpet knife. The rest of the rod i will use paint stripper to get the clearcoat of..

When i need to shorten a rod i will never do it from the tip, always from the but. I'm bussy rebuilding two JL Custom rods. Not one of them was build on the spine. The grips was filed up with rope under the cork. Don't know why, i always try to make the grips as thin as posseble.

I don't know what is going on at Purglass, butt manny rodbuilder are complaining. I'm having problems with the 300/1. Had two thar colapsed. Its the first problems i had so far, but the guys in the eastern cape say Purglass is not what it use to be. Just asame that they don't want to go the HMG way.o

Offline Rory

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Re: Purglass 400/2 Rod Build
« Reply #24 on: December 11, 2012, 01:51:48 PM »
I must just pick up my turning machine from ET and I can get cracking!  :geet

Offline Mangi

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Re: Purglass 400/2 Rod Build
« Reply #25 on: December 11, 2012, 02:54:25 PM »
If it is propper flex cat that need to be removed and even pretley clear set, it helps to heat it up abut. Not to much. It will strip of easely with a carpet knife. The rest of the rod i will use paint stripper to get the clearcoat of..

When i need to shorten a rod i will never do it from the tip, always from the but. I'm bussy rebuilding two JL Custom rods. Not one of them was build on the spine. The grips was filed up with rope under the cork. Don't know why, i always try to make the grips as thin as posseble.

I don't know what is going on at Purglass, butt manny rodbuilder are complaining. I'm having problems with the 300/1. Had two thar colapsed. Its the first problems i had so far, but the guys in the eastern cape say Purglass is not what it use to be. Just asame that they don't want to go the HMG way.o


I'm still very new in the game and I have much to learn, but not sure I'll use paint stripper on the blank.  I'll be too scared that it denatures the graphite fibres and weakens the blank.  I might be completely wrong, but I'll stick to scraping the blank clean little by little.


I am going to re-spine the blank and fit the components on where they should be.

Offline REEFMAN

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Re: Purglass 400/2 Rod Build
« Reply #26 on: December 11, 2012, 03:01:27 PM »
Question for you clever okes...
What does the spine look like? Is it like a 'seam' in the Graphite, or what?

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Offline E.T.

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Re: Purglass 400/2 Rod Build
« Reply #27 on: December 11, 2012, 03:06:30 PM »
It's a curve, you are either behind it or in front of it w;k

Tony, there is no seam. You bend the rod slightly and turn it while the butt is on a tile and then it will jump into a fixed position. That is the spline.

For freshwater, flyrods, surf and jigging you put the guides on the same side as the spline. On heavier rods like tuna and marlin it goes on the opposite side.
« Last Edit: December 12, 2012, 10:24:48 AM by E.T. »

Offline E.T.

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Re: Purglass 400/2 Rod Build
« Reply #28 on: December 11, 2012, 03:12:52 PM »
So how do you know, especially on heavier rods that the guides are not aligned to the spline?


The rod will turn in your hand to get to the perfect spline whilst trying to land a fish and this usually result in broken guide frames.

This I have seen on various 20-40lb trolling rods and might I add, you can immediately see that they overloaded the rod by fishing line on it that is not meant for that rod.
« Last Edit: December 11, 2012, 03:15:31 PM by E.T. »

Offline E.T.

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Re: Purglass 400/2 Rod Build
« Reply #29 on: December 11, 2012, 03:21:54 PM »
Tony have a look at this....


Finding the Spine/Spline of a Rod Blank



Note how the blank jumps into position. I usually tape masking tape somewhere on the blank and just mark it on the tape.


Best

Offline pieta

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Re: Purglass 400/2 Rod Build
« Reply #30 on: December 12, 2012, 09:00:53 AM »
I have striped many rods from there clearcoat with paint stripper and never had a come back. I will run some test on a off cut and see what happens. Getting rhe spine i normally lift the blank or rod by the tip. One hand on top at the tip and the other hand about a meter or more away at the botten. Don'grip the rod keep your hans open. For a koffie grinder rig the guides must be at the bottem and for a multiplier at the top. I have seen rods with the guids on the sides. I see the new trend in the eastern cape is to leave the blanks as is, they don't paint it eny more. The resin is that the clear coate comes of any way.

Offline adam

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Re: Purglass 400/2 Rod Build
« Reply #31 on: December 12, 2012, 10:19:18 AM »
I have striped many rods from there clearcoat with paint stripper and never had a come back. I will run some test on a off cut and see what happens. Getting rhe spine i normally lift the blank or rod by the tip. One hand on top at the tip and the other hand about a meter or more away at the botten. Don'grip the rod keep your hans open. For a koffie grinder rig the guides must be at the bottem and for a multiplier at the top. I have seen rods with the guids on the sides. I see the new trend in the eastern cape is to leave the blanks as is, they don't paint it eny more. The resin is that the clear coate comes of any way.


do the same with spining, then let someone run a piece of chalk along the desired side.


would like to hear how how your test goes with the paint stripper.
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Offline REEFMAN

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Re: Purglass 400/2 Rod Build
« Reply #32 on: December 12, 2012, 10:20:28 AM »
Good info, thanks ET!

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Offline Marthin

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Re: Purglass 400/2 Rod Build
« Reply #33 on: December 12, 2012, 10:30:36 AM »
the spine was easy to see on the old fibreglass rods... blue marlin those brown ones etc.... good ones to practise on.
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Offline rofflign

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Re: Purglass 400/2 Rod Build
« Reply #34 on: December 15, 2012, 07:16:07 PM »
Great job Mangi! Now for a stupid question.. If the rod already has the guides fitted, will this test work to determine if they are correctly fitted? I would think it would automatically flop over to have the guides underneath as that would be the heaviest side.

Offline pieta

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Re: Purglass 400/2 Rod Build
« Reply #35 on: December 16, 2012, 07:18:38 PM »
 
Great job Mangi! Now for a stupid question.. If the rod already has the guides fitted, will this test work to determine if they are correctly fitted? I would think it would automatically flop over to have the guides underneath as that would be the heaviest side.

I don't want to hijack the question from Mangi, but he can corect me if I'm wrong. Take the rod with one hand at the top at the tip and the other hand at the bottom. Keep your hand open and about a meter plus apart. Lift the but from the ground and let the rod turn on you hand. For a  :mp:m the guids shuold be on the top of the rod and for a  :cg: the guids should be facing down. If you hold the rod like this your spine is at the dottom side of the blank..

Offline rofflign

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Re: Purglass 400/2 Rod Build
« Reply #36 on: December 17, 2012, 06:57:26 PM »
Thanks Pieta I tried that with a number of my rods and they all fall over with the guides at the bottom, it seems to make no difference whether they are spinning or rock and surf rods.

Rods I tried were an exage 110h, two 400/1's, exceller 8.0', 350/2, loomis 12' surf and a few old glass fibre jobbies.

Offline pieta

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Re: Purglass 400/2 Rod Build
« Reply #37 on: December 18, 2012, 03:35:56 PM »
I said i will do some test on the paint stripper. I used Purglass off cuts. I placed one pieca in a backet of paint stripper for 24 hours. The other piece i renewed the paintnstripper every  half an hour. I could not find any week spots or struckturle damage.

If you remove gloss from a rod, the paint stripper usely remove all the paint with in 10 minutes. I have done this many a times and never had any problems. It also gives you a better finish on your end produckt.

Rofflign if that is the case that all you rods turning the same way,  they were buildt on the same side of the blank. Many tests have been done by manny rodbuilder over the years and having the spine on the rigth side of the blank does make a diffrence on your casting.

Offline Mangi

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Re: Purglass 400/2 Rod Build
« Reply #38 on: December 18, 2012, 03:41:56 PM »
Thanks for the feedback Pieta!  What type of Paint Stripper do you use?

Offline pieta

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Re: Purglass 400/2 Rod Build
« Reply #39 on: December 18, 2012, 03:45:24 PM »
It is a Duram produckt called Durastripp. It is a water bass produckt