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Topic: Shimano Bulls Eye 9120 - Photographic Service and Maintenance Tutorial  (Read 4717 times)

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Offline REEFMAN

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Shimano Bull's Eye 9120 -
Photographic Service and Maintenance Tutorial


A fabulous reel from the Shimano stable, suitable on the pocket and very capable in the Medium to heavy Rock and Surf Grinder Revolution range.

Made in Japan with the quality we are used to in Japanese fishing reels.



DISCLAIMER: This is a difficult reel to service! Ultimate Angling accepts no responsibility for broken reels! Use this tutorial at your own risk!
If you are not proficient in servicing Spinning reels, do not attempt the full service at home!

The tutorial below is in depth, but does not include rebuilding the reel. To rebuild, just follow the same steps in reverse.

I would recommend that you do one section of the reel at a time, before you move onto the next part.

The Schematics for this reel are in Japanese, so nomenclature is paraphrased.

Good luck Mike Pike!  :hehe:

Let's go!
Remove the Drag Knob and spool.




Remove the Ratchet clicker and support





Now take the Line guard off





and the Circlip that supports the line guard, along with the Rotor nut.




Remove the Rotor and this is what we have...





Unscrew the Anti-reverse mechanism with the 4 screws shown. The 2 middle screws dismantles the Anti-reverse entirely, leave these alone for the time being.





Take out the Pinion gear with it's bearing and support.




Remove the waterproof rubber O-ring along with the thicker one off the body of the reel.





What we have so far...





LH Side plate. Unscrew the 4 screws.







At the back, remove the Back cover.





Remove the Side plate





Remove the Drive gear bearing and it's 3 washers




Remove the Drive gear




The engine room.





At the back remove the Cover plate





Slide the wormgear and oscillating sliding bars out. Take note of the bushing orientation.







Remove the Drive shaft





WARNING
You should stop here, as the rest of the reel becomes very difficult to put back together once taken apart!





Remove the clutch pin and the Wormgear bushing






DO NOT REMOVE THE IDLE GEAR AND SMALLER DRIVE GEAR UNLESS YOU HAVE TO! They are very difficult to re-align.




Remove the remaining bearings.






The Oscillating slider







So we're left with this....




Clean all parts thoroughly in Benzine. Regrease with Corrosion Block and put back together! Easy Peasy...  :rotfl


THE DRAG SYSTEM






The reel has oiled felt washers. This is their sequence in the spool.




The Line guard has 2 little rubber end tubes. Do not lose these!




THE ROTOR and BAIL MECHANISM

Do not attempt this unless you are brave!




Remove the Cover and clean. Replace.




Unscrew and lube the joint. Replace. No moving parts inside.





Then on the Line Roller side....
WARNING:
DO NOT REMOVE THIS COVER UNLESS YOU ARE VERY PATIENT!!







Touching the Bail spring will send the spring flying into oblivion. BE CAREFUL!








Unscrew, but don't take apart. Just ease it open and spray with some lube.







THE LINE ROLLER

Unscrew carefully...!







Take important note of the orientation of the parts!







Put back together after cleaning and lube.




THE HANDLE

Clean and lube all the moving parts and Joints.




THE KNOB








Clean and oil both sides of the Handle knob and re-assemble.





Like the Ultegra, one of the more difficult reels to Service yourself. Do so at your own peril!
 :tite

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Online John F

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Just reading this post got me dizzy!

:+ cred: for another fabulous tut Reefz (clap)

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Offline MIKE PIKE

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 (clap) great stuff Tony , that part where you said "Warning you should stop here " thats as far as i go ....  :hyst: , great tut bud .. :bow:

Offline Psy

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Good Stuff Doc....

Now can I send you mine for service too?
Many men go fishing all of their lives without knowing that it is not fish they are after.

Offline Charles

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 :shk It looks very complicated. Great TUT Reefz.

Offline REEFMAN

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Ya some of these bigger Fixed Spool reels are really not easy to put back together. Too many finicky springs and gears that need to fit perfectly.
One needs to be very patient...

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Offline sardinella

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Thanks Tony, great pictures and detail.

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Offline roxtidy

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Hello,

I have special question for you. I am very interesting for a reel Shimano Bulls Eye 9120 and I would like to know more detail about part #56 ( Drive Gear). The same part is including in a smaller reel Shimano Bulls Eye 5050/5080 - here is it #57 ( Drive Gear). But there are some differences between these two parts. The Drive Gear #56 in the Bulls eye 9120 has silver colour. The Drive Gear #57 in the Bulls eye 5050/5080 has black colour. What is a real reason for this? Which part number has better mechanical resistance?
Let me expleain why I am asking... In Europe are reels with black drive gear a symbol for very good quality and mechanical resistance for many years. We believe it is because of the black anodized surface. And now I can see many reels (from Japan) like 13 POWER AERO SPINPOWER with a silver drive gear .
Black anodisatios have for example - Shimano Ultegra Ci4 XSA/XSB/XSC, Shimano Aero Technium 10000 XSB and many others...

Thanks




Many thanks
 
« Last Edit: April 04, 2019, 03:45:30 pm by roxtidy »

Offline REEFMAN

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Alan Hawk explains Anodizing like this:
"traditionally die-cast parts are not good candidates for anodizing, because the casting alloy is created for fluidity so that it can easily flow when molten. In the case of fishing reels this fluidity is achieved by the addition of silicon to   the casting alloy, and silicon does not anodise when it solidifies. In   addition to this, cast surfaces are too porous to behave predictably   during anodising. There are ways to go around these impediments by   manipulating the density of the alloy then giving the cast part a chemical surface treatment before anodising, still the finished surface will not be perfectly smooth and its colour will not be uniform, therefore this method is usually used to create black or very dark finishes. The die-cast frames of high end Daiwas and Shimanos continue to be plated instead of anodised, trading the superior protection of anodising for the shiny colours and smooth surface of plating."

So don't be fooled, the chances are, that the super smooth glossy black finishes on drive gears is PLATING and not Anodizing. A silver colour Drive gear that has been anodized is still superior to a plated metal one. That's the way I understand it.

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Offline roxtidy

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Re: Shimano Bulls Eye 9120 - Photographic Service and Maintenance Tutorial
« Reply #10 on: April 18, 2019, 04:45:18 pm »
sorry, but who is Alan Hawk? :-)
« Last Edit: April 18, 2019, 04:45:41 pm by roxtidy »

Online John F

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Re: Shimano Bulls Eye 9120 - Photographic Service and Maintenance Tutorial
« Reply #11 on: April 18, 2019, 07:53:29 pm »
sorry, but who is Alan Hawk? :-)
google is your friend  w;k

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Offline REEFMAN

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Re: Shimano Bulls Eye 9120 - Photographic Service and Maintenance Tutorial
« Reply #12 on: April 18, 2019, 08:33:45 pm »
sorry, but who is Alan Hawk? :-)
The world's foremost expert on Reel design and reviews. alanhawk.com

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Offline roxtidy

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Re: Shimano Bulls Eye 9120 - Photographic Service and Maintenance Tutorial
« Reply #13 on: April 18, 2019, 11:27:38 pm »

I have some other questions, because I would like to do disassembling my new bulls (there is not enought grease) and re-lubricating   
For me is very interresting  one attention about disassembling idle gear and small drive gear. Why is very difficult to re-align this parts? 
The idle gear is on the wormshaft and the wormshafr holds the idle gear on right place. Smaller drive gear is also on the shaft and this shaft holds it on right place. Where is a risk?
Which grease/oil do you prefer for re-lubricating?

thank you

Offline roxtidy

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Re: Shimano Bulls Eye 9120 - Photographic Service and Maintenance Tutorial
« Reply #14 on: April 18, 2019, 11:49:11 pm »
...or will be really safer to remove only the wormshaft? The idle gear and smaller drive gear shaft + small drive gear stays on right place as before? And in this state to get rid of old grease and then apply a new one?

Offline REEFMAN

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Re: Shimano Bulls Eye 9120 - Photographic Service and Maintenance Tutorial
« Reply #15 on: April 19, 2019, 12:44:28 pm »

I have some other questions, because I would like to do disassembling my new bulls (there is not enought grease) and re-lubricating   
For me is very interresting  one attention about disassembling idle gear and small drive gear. Why is very difficult to re-align this parts? 
The idle gear is on the wormshaft and the wormshafr holds the idle gear on right place. Smaller drive gear is also on the shaft and this shaft holds it on right place. Where is a risk?
Which grease/oil do you prefer for re-lubricating?

thank you
:dunno: it's the way Shimano made it. All looks pretty simple from the outside. Try it for yourself...
I prefer Corrosion Block range of oils and greases. They use it in Aircraft, so it's good spec.

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