ULTIMATE ANGLING - the Ultimate SA Fishing website
General Angling Topics => REEL TECH, SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE => Topic started by: REEFMAN on September 05, 2011, 09:41:54 PM
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Here follows a comprehensive tutorial on how to strip and Service a Daiwa Seagate.
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aai yaai yaai.....tops uncle.
i will do any multiplier but if i ever try to service a grinder, it will end up grinding
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Thanks Reefman - great tutorial. :ult:
Do you have any comments on the reel. I had one for a year until a client left it in a horizontal holder with a lure attached. Mr yellowtail grabbed lure, Seagate and Exceller donated to the deep....client nearly swam back. Now we are going into season again, I am thinking of replacing it. Not sure whether to get the same again.
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The build inside the reel is pretty solid, definitely a step up from the Exceler range. Was a bit disappointed when I opened the Drag up... 3 very thin and fragile 'carbon fibre, paper type washers", all covered by what looks like a thin, cheap bendy Bottle top...?! Will be very surprised if this reel's drag doesn't snatch all over the place...
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Thanks for that. A mate has one now and will see how his goes. Mine did about 40 tail and 100 snoek and was still OK.
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Thanks for that. A mate has one now and will see how his goes. Mine did about 40 tail and 100 snoek and was still OK.
There we go... proof's in the pudding!
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Superb tut Reefz +cred
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:resp: :resp: :resp:
As usual... GREAT TUTORIAL !
I must say, Im impressed that the inside looked so good ! That reel has been dropped on the sand, and had been dunked many many many times !
:tkx: :udman:
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:resp: :resp: :resp:
As usual... GREAT TUTORIAL !
I must say, Im impressed that the inside looked so good ! That reel has been dropped on the sand, and had been dunked many many many times !
:tkx: :udman:
Tell you what... that reel looked new inside...!! Seems to seal very well then!!
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Tell you what... that reel looked new inside...!! Seems to seal very well then!!
Yup ! looks like a :win:
@ Vidal last year, Myself and Lichia waded onto a bank and tried dropshotting... the reel was constantly submerged. Then in Jan (?) i went tiger fishing on the Komati, and the rod and reel was dropped overboard.
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GREAT TUTORIAL :shre:
Looks like a great little :cg:
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:FST: .... excellent tut Tony , im sure you got a twin brother hiding in the basement at home... beats me where you find the time to do all of this.... :resp:
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:tkx: for this one Tony. Guess what I am doing this weekend.
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:tkx: for this one Tony. Guess what I am doing this weekend.
And how did it go?
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My father in law borrowed my reel to go tiger fishing and he should have returned it this weekend. Hopefully I have it by this weekend to play with. I will give feedback.
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Hi Reefman.
Thanks for the extremely helpful and comprehensive tutorials.
Do you have plans to provide a tutorial on the Seagate 4500 and Seagate 6000?
I noticed that the 3500 is not the same as these and I am nervous to start pulling apart my beloved reels without one of your in depth tutorials to guide me through the process. Thanks again.
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Mike :welc:
I can't see the 4500 being vastly different to the 3500 inside... not sure about the 6000 though. SHould be similar? Best way to check is to just compare the schematic diagrams. They will give a good clue as to whether the reels are different inside.
I don't have plans to do these reels unless someone wants to send me one.
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Mike :welc:
I can't see the 4500 being vastly different to the 3500 inside... not sure about the 6000 though. SHould be similar? Best way to check is to just compare the schematic diagrams. They will give a good clue as to whether the reels are different inside.
I don't have plans to do these reels unless someone wants to send me one.
Thanks for the tut Reefs, I had not seen it before. My 3500 became a bit grizzly after the little bonnie I caught was taxed by something quite huge. I had 20lb Fireline on but as we all know, Fireline breaks well beyond it's rating. I eventually straight sticked my Berkley Air and palmed the spool in order to break it off. The Seagate has not been the same since.
On the 3500 vs 4500/6000, I think that there are some differences. From what I remember, the 4500 and 6000 are more similar to one another than the 3500/4500. The 3500 is the only one with an anti reverse lever. From what I gathered when doing some research prior to buying it, the 4500 and 6000 are substantially more robust (beyond what would be expected, given the bigger numbers).
@SeaCat, I'm sure that the 3500 tut will take you very much in the right direction though.
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I see 2.5 years has passed since I commented on this reel.
Well it has now been tossed away (actually in Feb this year). It suffered a seizure on a small tuna and exploded. Quite dissappointed :-( as it had some good attributes.
My buddies was going strong but then the same thing happened to his as well as the handle just falling out into the drink.
Fish 2, Seagate 0.
Nothing against Daiwa, my old Excellor is still going strong, but for the money on this size of grinder, I will keep on looking.
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I see 2.5 years has passed since I commented on this reel.
Well it has now been tossed away (actually in Feb this year). It suffered a seizure on a small tuna and exploded. Quite dissappointed :-( as it had some good attributes.
My buddies was going strong but then the same thing happened to his as well as the handle just falling out into the drink.
Fish 2, Seagate 0.
Nothing against Daiwa, my old Excellor is still going strong, but for the money on this size of grinder, I will keep on looking.
Tim, what specifically do you think happened? Bearings seize? Shaft bent?
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Reefman, normally when a bearing goes, you get some advanced warning - the knocking and grinding. This wasn't like that. Literally the fish was diving against a tight drag, the angler was palming a bit and the spool stopped turning. It didn't slow down or become sticky, it just stopped dead. I couldn't even turn it by hand.
When we opened it up the spool bushing had melted - I would think this is because there was play between the shaft and the spool causing a hot spot. I think this was symptomatic though.
The real problem appeared to be the cast metal "hole" that the main shaft goes through in the body. The top of this had sheared off meaning that the shaft could flex. As a result it lifted the drive gear. I guess that over some time the slack created grinding paste and this eventually stopped the gear from turning. Not sure if this is endemic or a once off fault.
Seeing as my kit gets used and abused regularly with just a quick rinse at the end of the day and a spray with WD-40, I cannot guess what happened when, as the reel hadn't been opened for some time.
In defence of the reel, the drag was still smooth and my youngest is bleak at it being tossed. (he is now busy destroying a Lethal 40!)
We are still searching for the ultimate yellowtail casting reel. (300m of 30lb braid, 5:1 or faster, lightweight, strong and smooth drag, well built, etc).
Currently we use: Lethal 40, Exceler 4000, Opus Plus 5000, Sustain 5000, Stradic 5000, Stradic 8000, Stella 5000, Cabo 40, Abu Soron, Daiwa Emblem, Penn Battle.
Stradic 5 is the best casting and until recently the Stradic 8000 was the best for pulling fish - but it has developed a noise recently when retrieving.
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Interesting... thanks for the feedback.