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General Angling Topics => Sliding technique => Topic started by: REEFMAN on December 08, 2010, 06:15:03 PM

Title: How a Non-return Slide works - Regular and Shake Down
Post by: REEFMAN on December 08, 2010, 06:15:03 PM
(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/SLIDE%20CLIP%20WORKS.jpg)
Title: Re: How a Non-return Slide works
Post by: sea sick on December 08, 2010, 06:21:17 PM
aaah Tony.

i have seen that you have been working hard lately.
no drilling currently?

looks good all the new posts.
keep em coming. UA will indeed become the best website for anglers.

seems like the Vidal trip had some impact on you guys.
Kingies still around at Vidal. edit my post if needed as i am already way off topic.

nice pictures and the explaining of it. now don't you go and lap out all the secrets at once. you need to keep the guys interested.

ss
Title: Re: How a Non-return Slide works
Post by: REEFMAN on December 08, 2010, 06:37:46 PM
aaah Tony.

i have seen that you have been working hard lately.
no drilling currently?

Eish... too much!! Otherwise the Bait presentations would also be coming out thick and fast!
Title: Re: How a Non-return Slide works - Regular and Shake Down
Post by: deezynking on June 21, 2011, 01:49:02 PM
jst curious
 
if a wave knocks ur slide back and it kinks and stops half way. how does 1 tell if its slid ryt down?
i cannot feel my slide go ryt down, but when i reel out its down to the stopper. interesting thou.
i have been told if your slide does not go all the way down andyou get a pickup, thats how 1 gets a burn off majority of the time. is this correct?
Title: Re: How a Non-return Slide works - Regular and Shake Down
Post by: REEFMAN on June 21, 2011, 02:41:28 PM
Sometimes when you're sliding, you can feel a "gadoenk" as the slide goes over your knot near the Stopper ring. But there's no real way of knowing if your slide made it to the end. Golden rule is to shake the rod for a full 5 minutes, time yourself... then you're giving yourself the best chance of getting there. Slides that are too long are, in my opinion, one of the biggest causes of a slide not reaching it's destination. And yes, a slide not reaching the Stopper ring, is one of the prime reasons of causing burn offs.
What's important on a hook-up, is to remain calm, let the fish go... don't strike... and then reel in a few turns slowly. The fish should have picked your sinker up and the sinker line is now travelling through the slide, bringing the stopper ring closer to the slide, and hopefully the slide will hit the Stopper ring... your rod will now go flat - s..l...o...w...ly tighten up the drag a notch or 2 and you can set the hooks with a few solid tugs.

When you reel a slide in, the slide will stay still, until the sinker hits it... so it will "seem" like your slide got to the end... but this is not always the case...
Title: Re: How a Non-return Slide works - Regular and Shake Down
Post by: Half-Pint on June 21, 2011, 02:44:16 PM
Correct that is what causes a burn off. Anyone who tells you they feel the slide hit the stop ring is talking k@k! With the stretch in the line and the swells its simply not possible. I reckon what's best is to count your shakes I do almost 200 probably excessive but at least my bait is there. If the wave knocks it back and kinks the slide so it won't go out your only option is to reel up and restart but I don't see how that can really happen
Title: Re: How a Non-return Slide works - Regular and Shake Down
Post by: Homie on June 21, 2011, 02:45:37 PM
Sometimes when you're sliding, you can feel a "gadoenk"

Not a Gadonk ? :hehe:

LOL, Nicely explained Reefz
Title: Re: How a Non-return Slide works - Regular and Shake Down
Post by: Sylvester on June 21, 2011, 02:50:22 PM
What Reefer said is spot on, shake it for a full 5 minutes. Start off with short sharp shakes till the slide dips below the surface, then you switch to a long swooping shake. My routine is then to leave the rod in the pension pipe for a few minutes then pick it up and shakes vigorously as the slide can sometimes sit on you leader or leader to steel knot.


Another tip is to read the rip in the water and to use this to you advantage and slide across it so that it helps to "pull" your slide out. also sliding head-on into the waves is not the easiest thing!


If you are struggling to get your slide over the breakers it is sometimes a good idea to put your rod tip on the floor(no shaking this way), this keeps the slide on the bottom and the breaking of the waves can help to pull it out. I do this often and one can be surprised how fast the slide can move this way. The waves must be rolling strongly though and be close to each other or you will just wrap up your slide.


As a rule you should not make your slide longer than a single arms length or 800mm, from bottom hook to last coil of slide. Shorter slides move quicker IMO.
Title: Re: How a Non-return Slide works - Regular and Shake Down
Post by: Half-Pint on June 21, 2011, 02:56:04 PM
Dam now I feel like a chop saying you can't feel it hitting the ring!
Title: Re: How a Non-return Slide works - Regular and Shake Down
Post by: Sylvester on June 21, 2011, 03:01:03 PM
In 3 years of sliding baits I have yet to feel one hit the slide ring, only time you know for sure is when you hit the braid at snot spoed with an angry  :brnz:  on the end of the line and you can't even remember how to turn the ratchet off ....otherwise its all guess work!
Title: Re: How a Non-return Slide works - Regular and Shake Down
Post by: REEFMAN on June 21, 2011, 03:05:07 PM
MB... don't think you can feel it hitting the Stopper ring...? But what I sometimes feel is the slide going over the big Albright or Fig 8 knot that attaches to the 1m steel near the Stopper ring..... feels like a ... "gadoenk"... as it goes over!  :rotfl
Title: Re: How a Non-return Slide works - Regular and Shake Down
Post by: sea sick on June 21, 2011, 03:14:49 PM
also as reefman stated.
Stay calm during the pick up.
Many times, i will only slide through the first big wave, then leave the rest up to the shad. Keeping it longer in the area just behind the waves.
As it now has more time to swim freely it gives more time to be seen.
When the pickup comes, you should still give free spool, and when you decide thats enough. Tighten then drag slowly, then you could wait for the fish to bang into the stopper ring, or, reel in the remaining line till the rod goes flat, then just a couple of tugs.

This surely brings back memories.......
Ss
Title: Re: How a Non-return Slide works - Regular and Shake Down
Post by: deezynking on June 21, 2011, 03:35:42 PM
what i normally do is 2mins vigorous shakes than long strokes for another 2 mins or so. this genarally gets the bait in or i think. sometimes it dont work out getting stuck midway or so. i usually use the ready made slide traces one can buy from tackle shops.  :tkx: for all the speedy replies. i was just curious as to what would happen and how to go about it incase it did happen.  when i get pick up i let it run for about 6-10secs than give it a good strike.
 
what would 1 say about the ready made slides. weighted with a pink skirt or duster. i normally buy the 1s with the gorilla hooks. short round stubby hooks. so far it has not let me down.
Title: Re: How a Non-return Slide works - Regular and Shake Down
Post by: Sylvester on June 21, 2011, 03:49:10 PM
what i normally do is 2mins vigorous shakes than long strokes for another 2 mins or so. this genarally gets the bait in or i think. sometimes it dont work out getting stuck midway or so. i usually use the ready made slide traces one can buy from tackle shops.  :tkx: for all the speedy replies. i was just curious as to what would happen and how to go about it incase it did happen.  when i get pick up i let it run for about 6-10secs than give it a good strike.
 
what would 1 say about the ready made slides. weighted with a pink skirt or duster. i normally buy the 1s with the gorilla hooks. short round stubby hooks. so far it has not let me down.


Noooooo, making them is half the fun and about a third of the price!!! And if they fail, you can blame yourself whereas if the shop bought one fails you have to blame yourself and the guy that tied it!!


For the pick up, this is assuming rod in hand...


It is very important to set your drag, I can't tell you how much to set it too but I try to make mine so that I can easily peel off line so light'ish. This is quite important as it can save you a burnoff.


Let the fish pull the rod flat, don't give him the line but at the same time don't pull.


with the rod flat or even just before the spool should start rolling on the drag, tighten a click or two and start reeling slowly. tighten the drag a fraction more and keep reeling slowly.
Once you are confident the slide is on the stopper ring, you can sometimes feel the sinker pull loose this is a good sign, you can set the hooks. Lift the rod with your hand on the spool for extra tension and "hit" the fish with a few short sharp pumps (if using a circle just tighten the line with you hand on the spool and try to keep the rod up if it pulls you flat you let it take line and you're on!!). Once you have hit the fish don't forget to let go of the spool and let the fish have a run and allow it to tire itself in the deep....enjoy the fight and drink lots of water!

Title: Re: How a Non-return Slide works - Regular and Shake Down
Post by: deezynking on June 21, 2011, 03:53:49 PM

Noooooo, making them is half the fun and about a third of the price!!! And if they fail, you can blame yourself whereas if the shop bought one fails you have to blame yourself and the guy that tied it!!


For the pick up, this is assuming rod in hand...


It is very important to set your drag, I can't tell you how much to set it too but I try to make mine so that I can easily peel off line so light'ish. This is quite important as it can save you a burnoff.


Let the fish pull the rod flat, don't give him the line but at the same time don't pull.


with the rod flat or even just before the spool should start rolling on the drag, tighten a click or two and start reeling slowly. tighten the drag a fraction more and keep reeling slowly.
Once you are confident the slide is on the stopper ring, you can sometimes feel the sinker pull loose this is a good sign, you can set the hooks. Lift the rod with your hand on the spool for extra tension and "hit" the fish with a few short sharp pumps (if using a circle just tighten the line with you hand on the spool and try to keep the rod up if it pulls you flat you let it take line and you're on!!). Once you have hit the fish don't forget to let go of the spool and let the fish have a run and allow it to tire itself in the deep....enjoy the fight and drink lots of water!

 :bow:  dude. much appreciated. when i do get tym i try to make them on my own and yes im a bit lazy. i admit it.
Title: Re: How a Non-return Slide works - Regular and Shake Down
Post by: BigG on June 22, 2011, 10:18:30 AM
What is your guys opinion on sliding say a whole mackie vs sliding a whole yellow tail (around 800gm - 1 kilo) under the same water conditions
Which one gets into the strike zone quicker?
I have always found IMO that the bigger bait is easier to slide despite the resistance in the water vs the smaller bait
Would be interesting to see what the the guys have to say
Title: Re: How a Non-return Slide works - Regular and Shake Down
Post by: Half-Pint on June 22, 2011, 10:31:47 AM
In rough conditions I will rather slide the smaller bait less resistance more chance of it getting out less chance of burn offs etc. In calm conditions I don't think it really makes a difference put the size bait for the size fish in the area. Little bit silly to slide a lone mackie off the island and you will have no success putting out a giant yellow tail off most south coast spots
Title: Re: How a Non-return Slide works - Regular and Shake Down
Post by: REEFMAN on June 22, 2011, 11:50:45 AM
What is your guys opinion on sliding say a whole mackie vs sliding a whole yellow tail (around 800gm - 1 kilo) under the same water conditions
Which one gets into the strike zone quicker?
I have always found IMO that the bigger bait is easier to slide despite the resistance in the water vs the smaller bait
Would be interesting to see what the the guys have to say

Shewie...  Sliding off flat beaches, I have found it very difficult to slide a really big bait. The weight of the bait causes the line to dip badly, so that it often drags on the floor for the first 10m or so. After that, once the bait is buoyed by the water, it becomes easier. The trick with big bait beach sliding is to get out as far as you can in the water, so the water bouyancy takes over quicker... but this is not always possible on steep KZN beaches...

Off high deepwater points, the sheer weight of the bait will probably take it down quicker...
Title: Re: How a Non-return Slide works - Regular and Shake Down
Post by: BigG on June 22, 2011, 11:58:05 AM
Thanks for the feedback Reefz, yes i forgot to mention my scenario was from the beach and not deep water points
Title: Re: How a Non-return Slide works - Regular and Shake Down
Post by: Sylvester on June 22, 2011, 04:02:57 PM
What is your guys opinion on sliding say a whole mackie vs sliding a whole yellow tail (around 800gm - 1 kilo) under the same water conditions
Which one gets into the strike zone quicker?
I have always found IMO that the bigger bait is easier to slide despite the resistance in the water vs the smaller bait
Would be interesting to see what the the guys have to say


It depends very much on the structure of the beach and whether it is strong water as in a strong rip or big waves or lots of waves. Also whether the waves are dumping heavily or rolling into the beach. Quite often a bigger bait will slide easier than a small one but it can only be ascertained on the day.
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