ULTIMATE ANGLING - the Ultimate SA Fishing website

General Angling Topics => Sliding technique => Topic started by: REEFMAN on December 07, 2010, 10:13:40 AM

Title: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: REEFMAN on December 07, 2010, 10:13:40 AM

Sliding for Sharks, Flatfish, Inedibles and Big edibles

(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/SLIDE%20trace%20working.jpg)

The Art of Sliding

Intro

At the outset, let's just clarify that in all forms of angling, there will be some things that work for you and some that don't. There are no hard and fast rules when it comes to fishing. With that in mind, this article is designed as a Basic Guide to those who wish to learn more about the art of sliding a big bait.

With the drastic drop in catches over the last few decades and the depletion of our resources, anglers, being an innovative bunch, thought out the box and came up with different ideas in order to increase their chances of catching fish. One of them was the Sliding technique.

Possibly one of the greatest changes to take place in our sport since the invention of Graphite rods, sliding is an expensive facet of angling. Top end Tackle and Equipment must be used. Skimping on any aspect of the technique will result in disappointment.

 

Concept

Prior to the advent of sliding, one had to cast a big bait out as far as one could, in order to target the bigger fish in deeper waters.

The innovation of Sliding, now allows one to get large baits out much further. How? Instead of casting a big bait as we used to, we now throw only a streamlined heavy sinker as far as possible, then with the use of a non-return slide, we can attach a large bait to a trace and 'slide' it out until it reaches the sinker. With the improved technology of the modern day multipliers and HMG rods, we are now capable of placing a bait out where we could only dream of doing before. The records over the last 6-7 years alone will bear testimony to the fact that Sliding has had a massive impact on the size of fish that an average angler is now capable of landing.

Don't get me wrong! Sliding is reasonably easy to do, once you know how; however, this technique is by no means easy to master.  It takes a lot of preparation, lots of skill and sometimes – depending on the conditions – a great deal of perseverance.

It demands:

• Top quality tackle, including line, leaders and all terminals
• Perfect knots and preparation
• The ability to load a strong, powerful rod in the cast
• The knowledge of reading the sea and knowing where to put your bait.
• An intimate knowledge of the drag functions of a reel and how to use it to your advantage in fighting a fish.
• Fitness, Courage, patience and perseverance in landing the fish of your dreams!

(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/SLIDE%20trace%20working.jpg)

 

 

This is what you'll need:

- Rod: 

A 13-14ft rod capable of throwing 8 to 10 oz sinkers, with enough rigidity or stiffness to be able to pressure a large weight.

Examples are the Assassin HMG blade, Pentagon Shark Extreme range and the Bazooka Heavy HMG. There are many other rods that are suitable, most notably the Purglas 1 piece rods that many Cape anglers use. However, these are a problem to transport and with the extreme technology of the modern day 3 piece rods, it seems pointless for the traveling angler to have to go this route.

It is also interesting to note that it was Assassin who pioneered the 3-piece HMG rods in South Africa, as well as designed the Flip-up guide and Trigger winch, all of which are now standard on most top end rods.


- Reel: 

A quality reel that can hold at least 500m of Braid backing with about 150-250m of 0.55 nylon on top. The reel should have a strong, smooth drag system and quality Anti-reverse components.

Examples of capable reels are Shimano Trindad 30 and 40,  Daiwa Saltiga 50, Daiwa Saltist 50, Torium 30.


- Braid:

A big Fish taking off on it's first run will often take more line than you would be able to fit on a reel if you were using mono alone. Enter the braid backing. Good quality, low diameter braid is important, as this allows you much more line on the reel than the equivalent breaking strain mono. The use of braided superlines is one of the technological breakthrough's that has allowed the art of sliding to become a reality. On a normal size multiplier (Shimano 30; Daiwa 50), one is now capable of spooling 500m of braid on as backing, covered by 150-250m of Mono topshot.

The best braid is undoubtedly Berkley Whiplash Pro 50 lb, which has a claimed diameter of 0.17mm. This brand has landed many tons of fish in the past few years.

Other good braids are Power Pro, Tuffline XP and Suffix Performance Braid, all of which are slightly thicker than the Whiplash.

 

- Main Line: 

A good quality monofilament is essential, preferably one with good abrasion resistance. Minimum diameter should be 0.50mm, preferably 0.55mm.

Double X and Kingfisher Giant Abrasion are examples of good quality mainlines. Fishing with a High Viz coloured line helps with being able to see your line more clearly, especially at night and where there are several anglers around you.


- Leaders: 

A leader of at least 1mm diameter is advised for Shore angling. The leader should be about 9m long. Fishing off rocky points would require a minimum leader of 1.2mm, increasing right up to 1.6mm and 1.8mm. At the end of the leader it is advisable to tie a length of 1m of 175lb Carbon coated steel, onto which the Stopper Ring is attached. The reason for this is that a Shark's skin is sometimes very coarse and rough, and during a lengthy fight, the nylon will become abraded. The steel prevents this from happening. Good quality leaders are the Kingfisher brand of leaders up to 1mm and Suffix Zippy in the 1mm and 1.2mm range. In the larger sizes, 1.2mm and upwards, Shogun make a good value leader, but the best is the Berkley Big Game leader range.

Joining large size leaders to mainline has provided a specific problem - the knot made at the join is rather a bulky one, which clatters through the rod guides on casting. Many anglers have moved over to the Wind-on type leader, which is connected to the mainline by a very slim Modified Cats Paw knot, which can easily be casted without fear of breaking the guides. The commercially available wind-ons are usually not very good quality and don't meet the Rock and Surf casting characteristics necessary for South African conditions - most guys now make their own Wind-on's in order to be sure of quality.

How to make your own Wind-on leaders (http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php/topic,64.0.html)

Other anglers also use the Tapered leaders from T-Line. These also make the knot manageable, but the jury is still out as to their strength and durability. A prominent TV angler uses them quite extensively and has made some great catches on them.


- Sinkers: 

A Wire grapnel sinker is essential, because in order to slide a Big bait out, one needs to have a fixed point at the end of your line - this allows your mainline to become tightened, which allows the slide to move down the mainline smoothly. The biggest failure of the sliding technique is when anglers do not allow their sinkers to settle adequately. It is critical to the success of a slide that the mainline remains under tension throughout the procedure. A loose mainline will result in the bait not reaching the end point, and when a fish picks it up, the slack line will result in a burn off.

Sinkers should be in the 8oz range for medium size baits, and in the 9-10oz range where a bigger bait is used, or when there is a strong sidewash, current or surge.

Sinkers should have 2mm steel grapnels - guard against using the 1.6mm grapnels, as these bend too easily allowing the sinker to become dislodged.

The sinker is tied to the Stopper ring using a diameter mono that is slightly less than your mainline. Should you not be able to dislodge your sinker on retrieval, the sinker line will break, and you won't lose your entire trace or fish. Another good idea to prevent losing your entire trace is to tie an overhand knot in your sinker line. This weakens the line by about 40% and under pressure, the line will break at this point.

(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/sinker%20connxn.jpg)




The Blackfin DVD team worked out an interesting fact about the Grapnel sinkers and demonstrated it in one of their videos. The longer the boom of the Sinker, the quicker, and better the Sinker buries itself in sand. What this essentially means that off beaches, one should use a long boom sinker.

This is a pic comparing the different lengths of boom on Grapnels. If you look carefully, the middle sinker has 1.6mm grapnels, which is not ideal.

These Grapnels have not been activated yet - they are still in the unbent phase - suitable for transporting.

(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/SINKERS.jpg)



How to bend the Grapnels in order to activate them for maximum grip:


(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/sinker%20bent.jpg)
 

Often one would want to have a practice cast to wet and stretch your line on reaching your destination, before putting your definitive cast in. What to do then would be to unclip the Grapnels as in the pic below...


(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/sinker%20unclipped.jpg)
 

When connecting the main steel to the Stopper Ring, I prefer to bypass the swivel, as this just adds another part to the setup that can fail. I would rather have the Swivel fail on the sinker side rather than on the Trace/fish side!


(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/stopper%20ring.jpg)
 

With larger leaders, it becomes increasingly difficult to tie reliable knots to the Stopper Ring.
A thimble helps the process...

(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=323.0;attach=397;image)



Once connected to the Stopper Ring swivel, the sinker is clipped to the Stopper Ring as shown and ready to cast. If you forget to clip your sinker, then it's Bye-bye sinker! ;-)


(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/sinker%20clipped.jpg)
 



- Slide trace: 

The quality of the Non-return clip is of utmost importance – most of the commercially made slides are not up to scratch as the spring steel used is not strong enough, and bend under heavy pressure. These were primarily designed for edible fishing and are not suitable for Inedibles. Several anglers manufacture their own Slides, these are usually high quality and are sold in reputable specialist Tackle stores. As in all facets of fishing, the old addage of "goedkoop is duurkoop" certainly is true here. It is important that the Slide trace has quality proper Power swivels and not Barrel swivels. These will fail under pressure.

 
(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/slide%20std.jpg)


Weighted slides are now the most common slide to use, since it helps the bait move in the right direction. The non-weighted slides will always run a greater risk of being tangled round the mainline.

 

Basil Manning brought out a variation of the Coiled Non-return slide - called the Shake-Down slide. Manufactured out of quality 1.6mm Spring steel, it features welded joints on both ends, power swivels and a unique coil which takes a tenth of the time to hook up to your mainline. It also feature a slotted weight system, so that you can change the weight of the sinker if need be.


(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/slide%20shakedown.jpg)
 

This how the Non-return slide is designed to function:

(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/SLIDE%20CLIP%20WORKS.jpg)




Trace and Hooks

Attached to the Non return Slide is a length of 200lb Carbon Coated steel, to which 2 hooks are attached - the distance between the hooks is decided on the size of bait you intend using. Normally, we use 10/0 Daiichi Hooks, but there is something to be said for fishing with circle hooks - the Mustad Z-circles are a good option. Other good brands include the Mustad Kendal Rounds, Gamakatsu 10/0's and the VMC Circle hooks.


(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/slide%20hooks.jpg)
 


- Trace Length

Another important factor in Slide Trace construction is the length of the trace.

Long traces, 1 to 2m, are suitable for use when sliding straight off high rocky points into deep water (like many of the Transkei deep water points).

 


(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/deep%20water.jpg)
 

When sliding off beaches, especially in the KZN North Coast, one almost invariably has to slide through fairly shallow water where sandbanks are almost always present. A long trace will drag on the sea bottom and this will certainly prevent your bait from reaching it's destination. For beaches then, a length of 80-100 cm is preferred.
If you make your trace too short, (less than 80cm) then shaking the bait out becomes difficult. The point of shaking your rod tip is to vibrate the slide clip along the line. If your trace is too short then the vibration transmits to the bait, causing the bait to bounce up and down, instead of sliding smoothly forward.
A trace that is too long, (over 1.5m) will almost certainly snag up on the bottom of a shallow beach.



(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/shallow%20water.jpg)

 

- How to build your own Slide Trace (http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php/topic,190.0.html) - Click here for Detailed Information on how to Build your own Slide Traces.

- Knots to use... Knots in wire - (http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php/board,18.20.html)

 


- Rigging the bait: 

Baiting up is the business end of successfully hooking and landing big fish. One should always try make the bait appear natural, or lifelike in the water. The bait should be streamlined, with the smallest diameter of the bait facing upwards, and the largest diameter facing downwards. This allows the bait to move through the water with the least resistance.

The top hook, being the weight-bearing hook, should be hooked through the top and bottom jaws of the bait, thus making the fish ‘swim forwards’ in the water, never hook your bait on tail up, one never sees a fish swimming backwards! Where the bait hasn't got jaws or skeleton to hook into, a cable tie helps to secure the top hook. 

 
(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/PIN%20A%20MACK.jpg)


When using live bait, rig it up exactly the same way except that the top hook (weight-bearing hook), must be hooked through the top or bottom jaw, so the fish can still open its mouth to breath and stay alive longer.

 

After lining up the hooks next to your bait, make a mark on the bait where the eye of the 2nd hook should finish. Now turn the 2nd hook upside down and insert it at the mark as shown below. Starting at no. 1, it ends at no. 4, and then is pinned with a Toothpick through the eye of the hook.

(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/SLIDE%20BAIT%20HOOKS%202.jpg)

Now the weight bearing hook can be set through both jaws.


(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/Mackerel_on_slide.jpg)
 

Very often, a toothpick won't fit through the eye of the hook - these pretty little numbers come in handy!


(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/PINS.jpg)
 


- Baits: 

This obviously depends on where you're fishing and what species you are targeting. For Sharks and Inedibles, in general, the preferred baits are Mackerel, dead or live shad (in season of course), Bonnies (Eastern Little Tuna) , Sarda-Sarda, Yellowtail, sardines in the sardine season, whole Chokka and Octopus. Chokka works extremely well in clean, warmer water.  Another method of spicing your bait up is to use a squid skirt above the Top hook. The metal Couta dusters with glitter in them - Pink and Silver work very well. The plastic Yamashita skirts in Pink are also a very effective attractant. The skirt gives the bait more movement in the water and a little colour, which in clean water can be seen from far away.  Blackfin sharks are suckers for a Silver Couta duster in clean water.  Combo baits are very effective... a bit of imagination can go a long way to making an effective bait. Eg: A small whole Mackerel with a whole Sardine split, flapped open and tied on the side with bait cotton, belly up, can provide excellent results. More scent in the water using blood always works. More on baits later...


How to rig a Yellowtail

Yellowtail Slide Bait (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qS3Dahojn_A#)

- Getting the bait out there:
 
Casting prowess is of utmost importance.
 Putting your sinker exactly where you want it is 50% of the battle won! Fishing deeper points, casting distance is not as critical, but off beaches and flatter profile terrain, distance is crucial. It is almost always the further casts that get the pulls in this aspect of fishing. Off flat beaches, there are almost always sandbanks ahead of you. It is pointless to cast directly onto a near shallow sandbank. Therefore, wading is often necessary. On some beaches, one can wade out almost 100m and more to reach a sandbank, and then cast from there into the deeper water. This often means that you would be casting in chest deep water! This is a skill that needs to be developed and practised. The best way of practising this, is to stand on your knees and cast - this will teach you how to vary the level of your drop and use upper body strength to cast with, because very often, you won't have a firm footing underneath you when wading.

Getting the bait out:

To propel the bait out to your sinker is the tricky part. First test that your sinker is settled. What most guys do, is cast their sinker out, then leave it there while you prepare your bait. Once you're satisfied that the sinker is settled, keep the line tight, then unclick the cast lever on your reel, pull the rod tip back over your head to behind you, grab your mainline and click your cast lever back on. Reel in the tension again so that the line is tight once again. Clip your bait onto the line while dipping your rod flat in front of you. Then when you're ready to release the bait, pull your rod tip back up to the vertical quite violently, while letting go the bait. This propels the bait down the mainline towards the surf. At the same time, start reeling quickly just to maintain the tight tension on the line. When the bait hits the water, start shaking the tip of the rod vigorously - vigorously means that while you're shaking, your eyeballs can hardly focus! You'll find that the Bait will skip across the water. When a wave approaches, pull the rod to the vertical to keep tight tension on the line and stop shaking - it's important that when a wave strikes your bait, there should be no slack in the mainline - this will prevent a wave wrapping your Slide trace around the mainline. As the wave strikes the bait, the non return element of the slide will function - stopping the bait from going back up the line, and if your line is tight enough, there won't be any wrapping.

Once the wave has passed, continue shaking vigorously as long as you can see your bait. Once it disappears, it has gone into deeper water, then the shaking should change to long sweeps of the rod, from near vertical to horizontally in front of you. By now, you'll be pretty knackered, so to take the strain off your arms and upper body, turn your back to the sea and put your rod over one of your shoulders, using your shoulder as a pivot point, pull the rod butt down and then up to the horizontal again. Continue doing this in long slow sweeps for about 5 minutes. Your bait should then reach it's destination. Sometimes, you will feel a 'clunk' as the bait reaches the Stopper ring.Now it's time to put your rod into a pension pipe if you're lazy, and release the drag on the reel, so that you can pull line off the reel with 2 fingers. Click the ratchet on, and now the waiting begins... take the chance to rehydrate yourself and have something to eat, because once you're on, there will be no time or sense for that! Also familiarize yourself as to where your Hook remover, camera, Tape measure and line glove are. You don't want to be scratching around frantically looking for these while your fish is slowly suffocating on dry land!


Here is a Video on how to slide your Bait out

Sliding technique (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zwvd84e3L5Y#)


How to clip your Slide onto your mainline

(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/SLIDE%20CLIP%20001.jpg)

(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/SLIDE%20CLIP%20002.jpg)

(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/SLIDE%20CLIP%20003.jpg)

(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/SLIDE%20CLIP%20004.jpg)

(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/SLIDE%20CLIP%20005.jpg)

(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/SLIDE%20CLIP%20006.jpg)

(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/SLIDE%20CLIP%20007.jpg)

(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/SLIDE%20CLIP%20008.jpg)

(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/SLIDE%20CLIP%20009.jpg)

(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/SLIDE%20CLIP%20010.jpg)


Now see how easy it is with the SHAKE DOWN SLIDE!


(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/SLIDE%20CLIP%201.jpg)

(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/SLIDE%20CLIP%202.jpg)

(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/SLIDE%20CLIP%203.jpg)

(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/SLIDE%20CLIP%204.jpg)

---

- Hooking the fish on a slide: 

Once your ratchet goes off, this is where many an over impulsive angler will lose a hookup. The secret here is not to strike at all! When you feel the fish take off with the bait, allow the fish time to swallow the bait properly and move off with your bait. Simply allow it to take line, while slowly dropping your rod tip. Start reeling in gently until you are sure that the clip is at the slide ring. Once you feel pressure on your line again, then lift the rod tip in order to set the hook. If you strike hard and your clip is not at the Stopper ring, you will get burnt off! Do this gently, allow the fish to take the bait all the way to the Stopper ring and you won’t get burnt off. 

- Getting burnt off: 

Many fish are lost this way. The reason this happens is that the fish picks the bait up before it reaches the end of your line. This happens most often when fishing in a current. When fishing in a current, I am pretty sure that 8 times out of 10, the bait does not reach the Stopper ring. The current causes a bow in your line and the bait does not slide out all the way. To help prevent this, once you've cast your sinker out, take note of which way the surge or current is flowing. When you're ready to slide, pull your line as tight as possible and walk at least 20-30 metres up current before you slide your bait. Sliding with the current will help your bait reach the sinker.

(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/slide%20upwind.jpg)



Let's just clarify what knots to use and where...

Joining Braid backing to Nylon topshot/mainline

2 options:

    * Braid stitch loop in braid, Bimini in mainline, joined by a Cats Paw Knot.
    * Bimini braid, bimini mainline, joined by a Cats Paw.



Nylon mainline to Ordinary leader

    * Bimini mainline to Double Fig 8



Nylon mainline to Wind-on leader


    * Bimini in mainline joined to Wind-on with the Modified CatsPaw knot.


Leader to 1m 175lb Carbon coated steel

    * Albright knot, or
    * Double Fig 8, or
    * Power swivel


Slide trace connections

Bottom hook

    * Flemish eye with wraps
    * Flemish eye with crimp
    * Fig 8

Weight bearing hook

    * Snell knot in wire


Steel to Slide

    * Flemish eye with wraps]
    * Flemish eye with crimps
    * Fig 8
    * Swivel loop with wraps

All knots can be found in the KNOT SECTION - Page 2

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding
Post by: REEFMAN on December 07, 2010, 10:52:26 AM

Ok hopefully this will help someone out there... we'll add to it as more info becomes available. If you have good pics of Slide Baits, please forward them to admin@ultimateangling.co.za - I've bombed all my Bait pics out!!  duh

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding
Post by: Lichia amia on December 07, 2010, 11:03:33 AM

Wow, great post Mr.Reefz !!!1 :tkx:

Double cred !!!

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding
Post by: John F on December 07, 2010, 11:12:36 AM

I don't do R&S but this is awesome! Cred to you Reefz!

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding
Post by: 1309sg on December 07, 2010, 11:19:33 AM

Shot Reefs.. great post and must have taken ages! Cred for the effort and cred for the post!

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding
Post by: Quickbite on December 07, 2010, 11:33:38 AM

Freaking Brillant- thnax Reefz

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding
Post by: Homie on December 07, 2010, 12:17:45 PM

AWESOME !!!!!

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding
Post by: Rory on December 07, 2010, 12:26:26 PM

Double awesome!! Nice Reefs!

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding
Post by: bhugwav on December 07, 2010, 12:33:21 PM

simply brilliant, i do however have one concern.
the ring with the power swivel on.....u have the power swivel goin
g to the sinker with mono. its it safer to put the main line where you have your 1m of steel wire to the albright knot, as the non return slide will
eventually come and rest on the power swivel, metal on metal....saffer??
or i could be worng......just getting clarity reefman.....thanks for the article....
much appreciated man....tight lines. :tkx:

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding
Post by: Stringbean on December 07, 2010, 12:40:10 PM

A Job Well done Reefer...very very informative information.

Bhugwav...i also feel much safer with my clip resting on my power swivel
and i havent had issues yet so i think it works.

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding
Post by: bhugwav on December 07, 2010, 12:44:02 PM

aha...now my mind is slightly at ease....thanks man :happ:

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding
Post by: REEFMAN on December 07, 2010, 12:49:49 PM

Quote from: bhugwav on December 07, 2010, 12:33:21 PM

simply brilliant, i do however have one concern.
the ring with the power swivel on.....u have the power swivel goin
g to the sinker with mono. its it safer to put the main line where you have your 1m of steel wire to the albright knot, as the non return slide will
eventually come and rest on the power swivel, metal on metal....saffer??
or i could be worng......just getting clarity reefman.....thanks for the article....
much appreciated man....tight lines. :tkx:

Bhugs... it's all about what works for you and what you feel confident with.

I don't like adding the swivel into the mainline equation - it's just another weak link IMO. I'd rather tie the sinker to the swivel - lose the sinker rather than the fish! The Slide will still be resting steel on steel - slide on 175lb Carbon coated... So I tie my mainline steel directly to the Stopper ring... it takes the swivel out the equation.

(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/stopper%20ring.jpg)

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding
Post by: bhugwav on December 07, 2010, 12:52:34 PM

valid point there reefman.....i think i will try this new way of yours....nothing better than to try hey :tite

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding
Post by: super_daav on December 07, 2010, 12:57:16 PM

Hella of a post there Reefs!! Have some cred!

Anything different to the setup if targeting GTs (big uns) besides maybe hook snoots with nylon etc?

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding
Post by: REEFMAN on December 07, 2010, 01:03:42 PM

Quote from: super_daav on December 07, 2010, 12:57:16 PM

Hella of a post there Reefs!! Have some cred!

Anything different to the setup if targeting GTs (big uns) besides maybe hook snoots with nylon etc?

Reckon if you're targetting GT's, Live bait would be best... so a preformed Nylon slide trace would be tops (if you knew there were no sharks around).
But, I'd still go with a full metal jacket trace? Blackfins aren't that fussy and would make a meal of nylon!!

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding
Post by: super_daav on December 07, 2010, 01:06:16 PM

Brilliant thanks.

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding
Post by: Marthin on December 07, 2010, 01:09:18 PM

to build confidence i would recommend trying this from a decent deepwater point first.  Not everywhere has places like Macassar with deep gutters where you could be wading past your PB bronzie still on your way to cast your sinker.

My first real sliding session was off rocks into deep water and i hooked a ray that won after an hour and a half!  Got me hooked on the sliding thing proper... before then tried once before and ended up with traces tangled with mainline and all kinds of disasters.  Enough to put me off for more than a year before i tried again.

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding
Post by: REEFMAN on December 07, 2010, 01:10:49 PM

Quote from: Stringbean on December 07, 2010, 12:40:10 PM

A Job Well done Reefer...very very informative information.

Bhugwav...i also feel much safer with my clip resting on my power swivel
and i havent had issues yet so i think it works.

Shot Beans!
But C'mon dude, I'm sure there are lots and lots of tips and additions you can make to this thread... ?!

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: Sailor on December 07, 2010, 07:31:06 PM

Great Reefz, you have outdone yourself again.   :resp:

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: REEFMAN on December 08, 2010, 06:30:45 PM

First post updated with more info, Photo's and Videos

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: Action Man on December 08, 2010, 07:08:39 PM

Reefz it looks great...I looked through it quickly, read some points is it alright if I add some info in? some of the stuff could be here already but I dont feel like double checking, you know how I am! lol

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: Action Man on December 08, 2010, 07:39:48 PM

Sliding baits has taken off in the past few years and allowed many novice anglers the chance to target bigger fish lurking the deeper waters. The exciting thing is, it creates a whole lot more oppotunities and brings the thrill of huge fish to more anglers than ever before.

At this point in time casting a bait , rather thanslidingit should still be ones first choice as there is no doubt that more fish are lost when slidding big baits. In a fairly crowded situation it is not desirable to have relatively inexperienced anglers trying to slide a bait in the middle of a crowd off a point or in a hole that is working.

the situations where one should be sliding a bait rather than casting one are as follows:
1. The bait is far to big to cast out
2. The back of the bank, or the deep water is just to far out to reach with a sinker and bait
3. Conditions are so adverse that a bait that is cast does not get out far enough and is very quick to be washed in the current whereas the slide sinker has a chance to find purchase before the additional pull of the bait adds to the drag.

It is always best to try find a rip when sliding a bait, unless you have identified that your target fish is likely to be patrolling the beach in the surf zone and you dont have to pull the fish using smell in a rip.

The trace is very important, one of the main forms of propulsion for this slide system is wave-action. The shorter the trace, the quicker it will move down the line because even the smallest of waves passing by it will setit in motion. try to use approximately 450-700mm between the slide and the lead hook of your trace.


PART 2 to follow later or tomorrow

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: Fritz on December 09, 2010, 06:10:12 AM

Great post their Reefs I am sure that this has come in very handy for some of us on the site. Have some cred. (clap) (clap)

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: Half-Pint on December 09, 2010, 03:18:25 PM

A few small tips that I see a lot of first timers going wrong with many of them may sound quite stupid but I have seen them all happen. Dont toss your bait down the line it will bounce and wrap around the line leaving it jammed just out of reach and you will feel like a real klutz trying to dash out and grab it between waves. Get some height before you drop your rod down. Many people drop the tip to grab the line but their mainline ends up hooked in the mussel beds on the front of the point. People also become obsessed with keeping tension on the line to the extent that while shaking the bait they dislodge the sinker. Remember you are trying to slide a bait not build a cable car system! Last tip that may or may not be true is to take a few steps back or forward while shaking otherwise the constant rubbing on the same spot of line with your tip eye may weaken the line causing a burn off

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: Shane on January 04, 2011, 10:42:30 AM

 :resp: Absolutely Fantastic Post, probably the most comprehensive resource on Slide Fishing on the planet.

I would like to share a little tip that I got from my buddy Brendan at Gremlins.

His theory is to pin your mackerel on the top, rather than on the belly.

That way when the bait finally settles in the water, the weight of the hook will make the fish hang upside down in the water - which will reverse it's natural camo.

So when another fish sees it from above, it sees the shiny underside of the fish - and when he looks from below, he sees the dark topside of the fish which will contrast against the light.

Even if it is a 0.5% advantage ... I want it... lol


Thanks again for an awesome post Reefs.

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: REEFMAN on January 04, 2011, 11:55:45 AM

Shot Shane... you're too kind bru!

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: krissi on January 25, 2011, 06:27:40 PM

Great article .... just had ladies nationals and spent 3 days sliding in Zululand - unfortunately the big fish were AWOL but it was worth the experience. :merm

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: Shane on January 25, 2011, 06:39:49 PM

Oh  Ja -  I used to be a 100% -  "tie the leader to the swivel and not to the ring" kind of guy ----- till my power swivel on my ring broke at Palm Beach 2 weekends ago.

Now I do it Reef's way --- or no way at all.

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: REEFMAN on January 25, 2011, 08:11:40 PM

Quote from: krissi on January 25, 2011, 06:27:40 PM

Great article .... just had ladies nationals and spent 3 days sliding in Zululand - unfortunately the big fish were AWOL but it was worth the experience. :merm

 :welc: Krissi!

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: krissi on January 28, 2011, 08:08:22 AM

 :tkx: Reefman

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: Raynor on June 23, 2011, 11:23:16 AM

Dear Reefman.


My first post....


This is an incredible piece that you have written. Thank you so much and may you grow from strength to strength


Regards

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: REEFMAN on June 23, 2011, 12:49:34 PM

Raynor...  :welc:
And thanks for your kind words!
 :win:

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: ProKayak on July 16, 2012, 08:58:15 AM

Tnx for another GR8 post....
Can't believe how many mistakes I'm making....
All clear now

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: PREVI on April 22, 2013, 02:56:49 PM

 :win: REEF MAN YOU ARE A LEGEND :resp:  THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO POST SOMETHING LIKE THIS  (clap) I AM SURE MANY ANGLERS LIKE MYSELF HAVE BENEFITED FROM THIS POST  :resp:

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: REEFMAN on April 22, 2013, 03:27:50 PM

It's a great pleasure Previ.

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: gavin erwin on April 22, 2013, 04:21:38 PM

That is awesome Reefs, now I know what I've been doing wrong.... everything!!! :+ cred:

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: mozhunter on May 12, 2014, 10:36:55 AM

Once again thanks for Reefman putting this together i have been following it religiously and reading through every post here.
I did a hell of a lot wrong on my previous sliding sesions and always got tangled up etc etc.
Now i know use shorter traces when sliding from the beach as here in Moz we dont have that high points but fairly flat. The other thing i did wrong was i never used steel wire for the last 1.2m to the ring but yet again this is not writen on the slide packages or the twats in some of the fishing shops dont tell u this. That is why i joined UA  :uarocks
The problem i am having now is joining the leader to the steel i have perfected the albrigh knot very easy but my problem is when tightening the knot, i lubricate it well, but still i manage to get some burn on the line. Am i doing something wrong? I dont want to have a weak link in my setup and all help would be appreciated. I will be sliding in a weeks time in Xai Xai and hopefully proof that there is fish there, dont know what edibles is there that will pick up.
Please see atached picture of the line burn.
Please help me with this problem if it as any at all.
 (http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/MGalleryItem.php?id=2043)

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: Spieks on May 12, 2014, 10:48:32 AM

Pull your tag end tight firs..... :dunno:

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: mozhunter on May 12, 2014, 10:55:13 AM

Quote from: Spieks on May 12, 2014, 10:48:32 AM

Pull your tag end tight firs..... :dunno:

Excuse my ignorance but wich tag end Spieks, sorry u dealing with a novice here..... :craz:
 

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: REEFMAN on May 12, 2014, 11:02:23 AM

Moz, we used to use the ALbright knot to do this, but most guys have moved on to a Double Fig 8 when joining the steel to the leader. Try it, it's easier too and doesn't slip like the Albright does.
But when doing the Albright, make sure you LUBE the knot copiously (gob on it!) before tightening, allows the mono to slip and form without burning. Also, keep the tag end of your mono at least 1cm long, because this knot definitely tends to slip a little under pressure.

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: Spieks on May 12, 2014, 11:09:24 AM

Quote from: mozhunter on May 12, 2014, 10:55:13 AM

Quote from: Spieks on May 12, 2014, 10:48:32 AM

Pull your tag end tight firs..... :dunno:

Excuse my ignorance but wich tag end Spieks, sorry u dealing with a novice here..... :craz:

This will explain...!
 

• Knots have their own terminology. The "tag end" (sometimes called the "working end") is the
end of the line used to tie the knot. The "standing end" is that part of the line coming from

your fishing reel.

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: Spieks on May 12, 2014, 11:18:54 AM

Moz, also reduce your "windings" on the albright, I count about ten on your knot. Remember to push your tag end through the loop in the oppositedirection to! Like Tony said, use plenty gob and pull tight slowly! First in your hands and then over your shoulders and back...! See what works for you mate!

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: mozhunter on May 12, 2014, 11:20:45 AM

Quote from: Spieks on May 12, 2014, 11:09:24 AM

Quote from: mozhunter on May 12, 2014, 10:55:13 AM

Quote from: Spieks on May 12, 2014, 10:48:32 AM

Pull your tag end tight firs..... :dunno:

Excuse my ignorance but wich tag end Spieks, sorry u dealing with a novice here..... :craz:

This will explain...!
 

• Knots have their own terminology. The "tag end" (sometimes called the "working end") is the
end of the line used to tie the knot. The "standing end" is that part of the line coming from

your fishing reel.

Thanks Spieks!! I was pulling on the standing end hence the burn but it  swr   difficult to get the line to move when pulling on the tag end put will   keep on trying, it is like the mono is biting into the covered nylon of   the steel maybe spraying with DWD 40 will help  <:
Some  :+ cred: to u my friend.

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: mozhunter on May 12, 2014, 11:23:19 AM

 

Quote from: Spieks on May 12, 2014, 11:18:54 AM

Moz, also reduce your "windings" on the albright, I count about ten on your knot. Remember to push your tag end through the loop in the oppositedirection to! Like Tony said, use plenty gob and pull tight slowly! First in your hands and then over your shoulders and back...! See what works for you mate!

I did 5 winds down and 5 winds back over the winds as i am using the Geoff Wilson's complete book of fishing knots. I will try with less.

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: Spieks on May 12, 2014, 11:28:31 AM

Quote from: mozhunter on May 12, 2014, 11:23:19 AM

Quote from: Spieks on May 12, 2014, 11:18:54 AM

Moz, also reduce your "windings" on the albright, I count about ten on your knot. Remember to push your tag end through the loop in the oppositedirection to! Like Tony said, use plenty gob and pull tight slowly! First in your hands and then over your shoulders and back...! See what works for you mate!

I did 5 winds down and 5 winds back over the winds as i am using the Geoff Wilson's complete book of fishing knots. I will try with less.

Try using only the 5 winds back....!

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: mozhunter on May 12, 2014, 11:37:29 AM

Quote from: REEFMAN on May 12, 2014, 11:02:23 AM

Moz, we used to use the ALbright knot to do this, but most guys have moved on to a Double Fig 8 when joining the steel to the leader. Try it, it's easier too and doesn't slip like the Albright does.
But when doing the Albright, make sure you LUBE the knot copiously (gob on it!) before tightening, allows the mono to slip and form without burning. Also, keep the tag end of your mono at least 1cm long, because this knot definitely tends to slip a little under pressure.

Thanks ReefMan and Spieks!! yes i hear what u say and it is true, when i exerted pressure on the joint it came appart and really started to S swr T myself, i managed to follow Spieks advise and it is better with less winds. I will try the double figure 8 but please explain does it pull thight up against the steel because most of the time the figure 8 is used for making a loop and joining two lines with loops so to speak. Will search the forum to see what i can see for that knot.
Once again thanks to all my UA brothers for your help! :FST:

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: REEFMAN on May 12, 2014, 12:58:32 PM

Moz... give me some time and I'll load up a tut on how to do it. The back to back Fig 8 snugs up tight against each other and is a better knot than the Albright for this application. Fig 8 is also known as the Centauri knot.
In the meantime, this will give you a rough idea... http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=67.0 (http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=67.0)
On that thread, the process is similar, except you don't have a double line. Just substitute the double line for the Steel and only make 2 turns in the steel. The rest is the same. 2 turn Fig 8 in the steel, 3 turns in the mono. (If you're using 1.2mm leader and above, you only need 2 turns in the mono).
When making the steel Fig 8, pull it half tight with pliers. Then make the Mono Fig 8. Slide them together (after lubing), when they touch, take the pliers and tighten the steel Fig 8 properly. Then pull together as tight as you can.

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: REEFMAN on May 12, 2014, 03:22:09 PM

Ok, so here's the tut on the Fig 8 method.... http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=17488.msg295838#msg295838 (http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=17488.msg295838#msg295838)

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: Spieks on May 12, 2014, 03:24:45 PM

Quote from: REEFMAN on May 12, 2014, 03:22:09 PM

Ok, so here's the tut on the Fig 8 method.... http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=17488.msg295838#msg295838 (http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=17488.msg295838#msg295838)

 :Like:

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: mozhunter on May 12, 2014, 04:57:51 PM

Quote from: Spieks on May 12, 2014, 03:24:45 PM

Quote from: REEFMAN on May 12, 2014, 03:22:09 PM

Ok, so here's the tut on the Fig 8 method.... http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=17488.msg295838#msg295838 (http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=17488.msg295838#msg295838)

 :Like:

Thanks for the TUT Reefman!! I Will try this tonight and i really need to invest in a vinger safer lol. Ok i did all the knots possible with steel and mono today for my sliding expedition, and another knot i did is the Yucatan knot for joining Mono and steel. I am using 40Lb Mono and 100Lb carbon coated steel wire from fishmate. I found the yucatan knot very easy and neat to make and as soon as you start pulling the steel coils nicely on its own. Below is some pics i made of the knot and please dont  swr me as my hands is so tender from all the knots from mono to steel today i know it needs to sit tighter and will get it done with a tighter pull and lots of GOB as Reefs says lol. Once again thanks for all you help i will try yours tonight.


I would like your guys thoughts on the Yucatan.


(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?action-media;sa=media;in=2045;preview)


This is mine i made


(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?action-media;sa=media;in=2044;preview)

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: mozhunter on May 12, 2014, 05:02:42 PM

Dont know if it pulled thru the pics.


(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?action-media;sa=media;in=2045;preview)


«
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?action-media;sa=media;in=2044;preview)

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: Spieks on May 13, 2014, 07:31:53 AM

Quote from: mozhunter on May 12, 2014, 05:02:42 PM

Dont know if it pulled thru the pics.


(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?action-media;sa=media;in=2045;preview)


«
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?action-media;sa=media;in=2044;preview)

 
Nope, dont think so Moz!

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: REEFMAN on May 13, 2014, 07:43:32 AM

Quote from: mozhunter on May 12, 2014, 04:57:51 PM

Thanks for the TUT Reefman!! I Will try this tonight and i really need to invest in a vinger safer lol. Ok i did all the knots possible with steel and mono today for my sliding expedition, and another knot i did is the Yucatan knot for joining Mono and steel. I am using 40Lb Mono and 100Lb carbon coated steel wire from fishmate. I found the yucatan knot very easy and neat to make and as soon as you start pulling the steel coils nicely on its own. Below is some pics i made of the knot and please dont  swr me as my hands is so tender from all the knots from mono to steel today i know it needs to sit tighter and will get it done with a tighter pull and lots of GOB as Reefs says lol. Once again thanks for all you help i will try yours tonight.


I would like your guys thoughts on the Yucatan.

MozH... I'm confused here... your leader is 40lb Mono??? That's about 0.55mm leader? If your leader is 0.55, then what's your mainline? A 0.55mm leader is considered light tackle! The Very minimum  you should be using for a leader needed for sliding is 0.8, but preferably 1mm... 1mm leader is 120lb... and that's the minimum!

A 0.55mm leader can only throw a 4 or 5 oz sinker? May as well cast the bait then?

0.55mm leader definitely doesn't need a steel piece to the stopper ring.

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: mozhunter on May 13, 2014, 08:32:20 AM

Quote from: REEFMAN on May 13, 2014, 07:43:32 AM

Quote from: mozhunter on May 12, 2014, 04:57:51 PM

Thanks for the TUT Reefman!! I Will try this tonight and i really need to invest in a vinger safer lol. Ok i did all the knots possible with steel and mono today for my sliding expedition, and another knot i did is the Yucatan knot for joining Mono and steel. I am using 40Lb Mono and 100Lb carbon coated steel wire from fishmate. I found the yucatan knot very easy and neat to make and as soon as you start pulling the steel coils nicely on its own. Below is some pics i made of the knot and please dont  swr me as my hands is so tender from all the knots from mono to steel today i know it needs to sit tighter and will get it done with a tighter pull and lots of GOB as Reefs says lol. Once again thanks for all you help i will try yours tonight.


I would like your guys thoughts on the Yucatan.

MozH... I'm confused here... your leader is 40lb Mono??? That's about 0.55mm leader? If your leader is 0.55, then what's your mainline? A 0.55mm leader is considered light tackle! The Very minimum  you should be using for a leader needed for sliding is 0.8, but preferably 1mm... 1mm leader is 120lb... and that's the minimum!

A 0.55mm leader can only throw a 4 or 5 oz sinker? May as well cast the bait then?

0.55mm leader definitely doesn't need a steel piece to the stopper ring.

Sorry my mainline is 0.55mm 15kg breaking strain the mono is 1mm at 120lb rating and the steel at 100lb


The   reason why i want to slide is to get the bait out further, it is   impossible to cast a big bait out so far this is why we slide is it not?   Also to slide your live bait i can not cas that far with heavy bait due   to a shoulder injury i had but it is more manageable to cast a sinker   and then slide , cause i can reach 120m to 150m on my line counter.   Remember i am sliding for edibles not for sharks i am not into shark   fishing.


Please correct me if i am wrong all opinions will be appreciated.

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: REEFMAN on May 13, 2014, 09:03:37 AM

Ok that sounds better!
If you're targetting edibles, then the Steel endpiece becomes unnecessary. It is there to provide protection when a shark wraps the leader round it's sandpaper skin.
 

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: mozhunter on May 13, 2014, 09:06:33 AM

Quote from: REEFMAN on May 13, 2014, 09:03:37 AM

Ok that sounds better!
If you're targetting edibles, then the Steel endpiece becomes unnecessary. It is there to provide protection when a shark wraps the leader round it's sandpaper skin.

Thanks, u see now why we confide in u for advise, i did not know it was for that i thought it was for burn off, i am quite successful in all aspects of freshwater angling but not salt, thus want to try and get it right.


Thanks for all the help Reefs!!! :happ:

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: Alf03 on March 19, 2016, 09:52:47 PM

I have tried to use those pins to pin my baits but they just slide out. Any advice?

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: MIKE PIKE on March 19, 2016, 10:10:46 PM

Alf03 , the pins have to go more or less 90 degrees into the bait and thru the eye end of the hook , if the bait is frozen it will hold and try to source longer pins at local sewing shop , the normal short ones dont go in deep enough .   

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: Alf03 on March 19, 2016, 10:53:05 PM

Thanks Mike

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: Half-Pint on March 20, 2016, 11:34:52 AM

You may need to push more than one pin in or use a toothpick

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: Psy on March 24, 2016, 02:48:34 AM

Quote from: Alf03 on March 19, 2016, 09:52:47 PM

I have tried to use those pins to pin my baits but they just slide out. Any advice?

 :crzy  your baits are too small?
Use longer skewer / kebab sticks    :nail:

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: REEFMAN on May 27, 2018, 02:09:57 PM

Time to revive this thread with more tips and greater experience?!Share your tips and experiences with Sliding...
Anyone tried to slide on braid with a Grinder?

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: MIKE PIKE on May 27, 2018, 07:29:31 PM

Never tried sliding with braid  , bit sceptical about trying it , especially on thin diameter braid like whiplash , not sure about the thicker braids though , could work ... :dunno: .

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: Half-Pint on May 28, 2018, 08:16:40 AM

I recall somewhere that the slide doesn't "bite" on the thinner braids and therefore washes up your line. In order to get the slide to lock down through the shore break one needs to use something around 100lb or more. In this case we are back to mono territory :dunno:

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: Kes on May 28, 2018, 12:39:33 PM

Quote from: REEFMAN on May 27, 2018, 02:09:57 PM

Time to revive this thread with more tips and greater experience?!Share your tips and experiences with Sliding...
Anyone tried to slide on braid with a Grinder?

Haven't tried with braid yet but in theory it should work. The action of the non return slide is the important thing to remember and in my mind the action wouldn't change with the type of line being used. But like I said, i haven't tried yet so not sure..  :dunno: :dunno:

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: Nooduck on May 28, 2018, 03:55:33 PM

Braid can be used for sliding. My fishing buddy used 65lbs braid and it seemed that his slide actually reached the end faster than on my mono rig.

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: MIKE PIKE on May 28, 2018, 04:33:20 PM

Should work on 65lb braid an above as on 65lb braid the diameter is 0.41 mm on J Braid and 80 lb is 0.43. :Like:

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: VISCHAL on May 29, 2018, 11:00:26 AM

I have used it, 48 pound gator brade. Not a fan. There are times when the bait slides our perfectly, especially when alive however have had issues when there is weed or dirt in the water. Dirt seems to latch onto brade and the slide gets stuck. The wave break and side wash are other issue in that if the slide trace tangles with the brade then chances are you are going to lose allot of it and this can become an expensive outing. There are many instances that I got hookups while sliding, and currently with many anglers fishing next to each other getting tangled with them is an issue hence I prefer using mono due to these reasons. :grk: :grk:

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding
Post by: Busanga on October 13, 2025, 10:37:34 AM

Quote from: REEFMAN on December 07, 2010, 10:52:26 AM

Ok hopefully this will help someone out there... we'll add to it as more info becomes available. If you have good pics of Slide Baits, please forward them to admin@ultimateangling.co.za - I've bombed all my Bait pics out!!  duh

What a fantastic thread, this has helped me tremendously.


Just one thing I think is typo .. First image of set up of sliding rig I think the line to the weight should be 0.5 not 50lb..  because it says mainline is 0.55 and lead weight line should be less...  ??

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: REEFMAN on October 14, 2025, 06:51:42 AM

The sinker line strength is not critical, but once your sinker is buried, you need to keep the line tight when sliding your bait out. Pulling your rod up and down with some force while sliding places an enormous strain on the sinker line (being the endpoint, the forces are greatest here).  Just makes sense to have it equal or more than the mainline - you don't want it to break while sliding your bait down...

Title: Re: The Art of Sliding - A review of the Sliding technique
Post by: Busanga on October 15, 2025, 02:03:10 AM

The sinker is tied to the Stopper ring using a diameter mono that is slightly less than your mainline. Should you not be able to dislodge your sinker on retrieval, the sinker line will break, and you won't lose your entire trace or fish. Another good idea to prevent losing your entire trace is to tie an overhand knot in your sinker line. This weakens the line by about 40% and under pressure, the line will break at this point.