ULTIMATE ANGLING - the Ultimate SA Fishing website
General Angling Topics => DIY Forum => Topic started by: Drago on September 14, 2020, 09:13:45 PM
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Quick and easy DIY downrigger pancake weight .
Bought small stainless wok 14cm dia . R 380
Measured 2kg of lead and put in a wok and on gas stove . 15min and it was melted . Scooped with spoon all debris and left to cool .
One half done , another half done bit later .
Then 15min with Corel Draw, converted file into a DXF .
Sent file to Metal Centre - and after week job done . R 78 per laser cut including material (SS316L 2mm thick) . Made few .
What is left is just to bolt two halves and dip in durabak.
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With lead , total weight 4.4kg
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Great idea... love all types of DIY stuff... Well done
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Serra
It looks like I am not allowed to send or reply PM - not sure why
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I will be only able to test this lead in Dec when I am done with boat.
Aim is to bend slightly the fin so that the lead tracks a bit away from boat and outboards .
If you use two down riggers-you will have L & R lead . That is an idea
Also if you pour more lead in a same wok - you could go to easy to 5.5kg total weight
I just don't know where to get more lead - tough to find any lately.
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More detail how to attach it
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One more photo
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Serra if you have some experience with downriggers - please share . I have zero .
I am planing to use 200lb HMP hollow core as main line on Downrigger spool .
Then question is how to make attachment from braid to lead . Should I use 1m wire from lead to braid . Or very thick mono .
Would you use elastic band as a release or those pricy release clips .
My concern is not to cry if I loose one of these meaning not over invest in it . Not sure how often this can happen and what would make you lose this lead. I guess it’s a huge strain on a main line. Also , can fish or shark attack it by mistake and bite line off . Does that ever happens ?
Planing to slow troll with it . 1-2knt
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200 Lbs hollow core will be fine. Spray your pancake weight with black paint. Should last a few trips and prevent any flash down there...
Connect the braid to 130-150 Lb mono.... about 1 m should be enough... at the end attach a strong (300 Lb) snap swivel. This will connect to your D shackle on the pancake weight.
On my DIY downrigger I use sliding drop sinkers with two small snap swivels, to take the line down, instead of attaching to an expensive release clip. This will avoid the painful practice of bringing the pancake weight up to the surface to attach a new bait (unless you have an electrical downrigger).
So basically your sinker is attached to the main line with one snap swivel (so it slides down), while the other snap swivel is attached to an elastic band that in turn is attached to the line coming from your rod/reel.
Put a few beads in the mono before the snap swivel.
Basically, when you have a strike the elastic band breaks and you fight the fish.
Put another bait, attach another elastic band to the line, put another drop sliding sinker and keep fishing.
At the end of the day pull everything only once. That's what I've been doing.
Please see the diagram...
Hope it helps.
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Here's the diagram
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Seeing that I have just about spent 200 + days straight at sea - out on the big blue and got about 45 days more to go..... due to damn COVID.... I have gathered these prints of the net, some ideas and tips for DIY junkies... I bought a Scotty down rigger (should be waiting for me in Durban).... I will have at least 6 months of freedom once this ordeal is over, so it will be "my time - me comes first" for a change in my life.... Heading out of Congo waters as we speak (or type ???? LOL) - Then all the way to Las Palmas (Canary Islands).... I know Tenerife, been there, now this time, to the other island to "park" the rig, till this COVID bastard is over...when + if???
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Some more.....
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Some more......
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some more.....
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Scotty 1050 = The one I bought....
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Serra , John
Thank you so much !
Sliding down looks interesting. Did not think of that at all - that is why added those 3 holes at the plate to hook on the baited line there . With your way at the end once you pull pancake up you retrieve all small sinkers .
I also thought to get two Scotties but because of way it mounts - and no space on gunnels where to mount them , I decided to make two small electric once as they will clamp to the outer side of 50mm stainless arched frame.
I will rubberize the lead in black.
I can just imagine what kind of damage this size lead can cause if it smashes against side of boat . I think long arm would be better to keep lead and line further from boat . I bought two cheap solid heavy fiberglass boat rods and will use them on my downriggers as a flexi arms . But still puzzled at what length should I cut them to be .
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Serra , John
Thank you so much !
Sliding down looks interesting. Did not think of that at all - that is why added those 3 holes at the plate to hook on the baited line there . With your way at the end once you pull pancake up you retrieve all small sinkers .
I also thought to get two Scotties but because of way it mounts - and no space on gunnels where to mount them , I decided to make two small electric once as they will clamp to the outer side of 50mm stainless arched frame.
I will rubberize the lead in black.
I can just imagine what kind of damage this size lead can cause if it smashes against side of boat . I think long arm would be better to keep lead and line further from boat . I bought two cheap solid heavy fiberglass boat rods and will use them on my downriggers as a flexi arms . But still puzzled at what length should I cut them to be .
Rubberizing is a good idea. Just make sure you don't get lumps in the surface. Could affect the hydrodynamics of the weight. I fabricated my weight and everything at home so mine is not perfect. To make sure the weight tracks straight, I've attached a DIY kona lure to the fin.... it adds a bit of drag thus preventing the fin from moving side to side. Also like to believe it works as a teaser :hehe: . Bottom line is, you need to be very careful when deploying, retriving and storing these weights. Can't simply ask a guess to pull it.... I do it myself....
Heavy fiberglass rod could work. On mine I'm using galvanized pipes (3/4 inch and 1/2 inch). The 1/2 in slides in and looks in place. For the second one, I've used a section of 19 mm stainless steel pipe I had left from another project. The idea is you need something REALLY strong that will not bend. Especially considering the boom length (at least 80 cm long). These things put on a massive amount of drag. Give it a try, if the fiberglass rod doesn't work... that's where half the fun is
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John
can you give us a drawing of how you made your reel, locking system and mounting.
Your complete design would be appreciated
thanks
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John
can you give us a drawing of how you made your reel, locking system and mounting.
Your complete design would be appreciated
thanks
Sorry, I must have given the wrong impression... I did not build the reel.... been using old reels (Okuma T50 and Everol 9/0)... made the boom and pancake weight. I've bought a Z-wing from the US ... it also works fine
Check the DIY posts here:
Downrigger: http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=8417.0 (http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=8417.0)
Pancake weight: https://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=15045.0 (https://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=15045.0)
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Just a thought, rather than do separate jobs (and if you billfish) we fabricated a stainless boom (check tournament dredges) and use the same boom for both downriggers (with an old International 50 with 200lb braid) and for pulling a dredge (take reel off and use 3mm braided rope tied to a cleat welded on the butt). When running the dredge we use the 2 pulley system to the rigger and fix an extra halyard from the first rigger eye to the bow for extra stability. This way we can pull a 24 bait 3 arm dredge on a 4kg weight at 8 knots without too much stress.
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Quick and easy DIY downrigger pancake weight .
Bought small stainless wok 14cm dia . R 380
Measured 2kg of lead and put in a wok and on gas stove . 15min and it was melted . Scooped with spoon all debris and left to cool .
One half done , another half done bit later .
Then 15min with Corel Draw, converted file into a DXF .
Sent file to Metal Centre - and after week job done . R 78 per laser cut including material (SS316L 2mm thick) . Made few .
What is left is just to bolt two halves and dip in durabak.
You should fabricate these.... willing buyer / willing seller? = ME!.... my email is: britz747@gmail.com.... (I am at sea, so no phone..... emails works when lucky)
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Serra , I will email you !
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John - thanks . I was thinking if durabak is a right product for this lead as it’s a rough finish , even spray on version is not smooth at all . Need smooth rubberizing compound that is also tough . Don’t know of any ..
On fiberglass pole - idea was to be flexi to lower possibility of braid snapping during the choppy sea and lead being bounced constantly . But yes , experimenting is only way . Thank you for all input .
Wanted to ask you about your sliding technique . Would not your bait with those two swivels, small sinker and elastic band climb up the main downrigger braid once you trolling ?
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Travelmember - I tried to picture your setup but don’t get all . Also you pulling a dredge with 4kg weight at 8 knots . That must be a massive drag. Where do you pull dredge - from one of sides ? With the dredge in water how many lines you have in a water and are they deeper below surface ? Just curios . I was also thinking of buying a dredge but on small boat (565) , I see that as a disaster to happen . I am guessing you have 28ft or similar boat .
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Don't think you need to worry about breaking 200 Lb braid!!! That's super strong...
The forward movement of the boat and the sinker push the rig down... when the sinker is going down start trolling slow.... I usually keep it at 4.5-5 knots