ULTIMATE ANGLING - the Ultimate SA Fishing website
General Angling Topics => Fishing Hotspots and locations => Topic started by: John F on October 19, 2016, 07:51:03 PM
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Last week, I visited Pomene for 5 nights as part of our monitoring and research support to MPAs in Mozambique. This involved mangrove assessments, reef surveys and marine turtle training for the reserve's rangers.
Although I did take a spinning kit with, I couldn't cast one single plug (shame on me I know!) :blush:
Consequently, this is not a fishing report. This being my first trip there, I snapped about 300 pics. So, here is a "pictorial report" with the most striking aspects of the trip. It could prove interesting for prospecting travelers.
Will provide separate short reports on various aspects, as I go through the pics.
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Getting there
Pomene is about 600 km from Maputo. That equates to:
* 530 km from Maputo to Massinga (last petrol station and source of supplies)
* 10 km from Massinga to the turn off (still on EN1)
* 34 km on a compacted dirt road all the way to the Reserve's gate
* 20 km from the Reserve's gate to Pomene Lodge on a very loose, one-way, sandy road - 4×4 absolutely necessary - deflate tyres to 1.2 bar!
I'm a slow (some say slugish!) driver and tend to stop every 2 h or so. All in all it took me about 9-10 hours to do both trips, including stops for refueling and lunch.
The scenery from the EN1 turn off all the way to the Lodge is typical of rural areas of coastal southern Mozambique and more specifically, Inhambane; ie. Coconut trees, cashewnut trees, grassland and dunes.
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Mangroves
The Pomene estuary is bordered by mangroves (about 157 ha).
Subsistence resource use (collection of invertebrates, harvesting of mangrove poles for construction, bee keeping and fishing) is widespread but at this stage does not seem to threaten the mangroves.
Nice, tall trees interspersed by creeks are pretty impressive.
Lot's of wading birds occur there, saw a quite a few yellowbilled kites, and small (+/- 50) scattered colonies of flamingos.
Really especial!
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Beautiful place Marcos!
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The local people
Like in many other rural areas in Mozambique, the locals are very poor and live directly off the land and sea. Despite being visited by foreigners and some degree of tourism, I noticed something different here.
Everyone we met was very friendly and generous. We borrowed 2 pairs of rainboots from the locals so the Reserve's rangers could walk with us in the mangroves. When we returned them, the owners would not take our money!!!! Can you believe this?!?!? In this day and age?!?!
Kids in their huts and on their way to and from school would greet us and chase the bakkie as we drove past... not a single time they begged for money.
We bought beer on our way back from the mangroves and payed 2 days later, etc, etc...
Our rooms were kept unlocked as well as our kitchen (even if we wanted, we could not lock them - see below)... nothing was touched or taken!!!!
Maybe it is its remoteness and you can't really hide. Or maybe I really have trusty eyes and pass on this honesty vibe and people return the favour... or maybe it is just the nature of the people living there. Perhaps this is exactly where Vasco da Gama landed, met the locals and said "Esta eh a terra da boa gente - This is the land of the good people"!!!!
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That looks amazing Marcos, a pity about not throwing any lures though.
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The Lodge
We stayed at Pomene Bay Lodge (which used to be part of the Barra Lodge group - it has recently been sold and is under new management).
The lodge is located at the tip of the peninsula, with easy access to the estuary and ocean.
Given the nature of our work and schedule, we decided on a self catering setup and booked 4 rooms and a kitchen/dinning area somewhat away from the main lodge, right at the tip of the peninsula.
The location and quietness is really outstanding and unfortunately it is the only good thing I can say about this place.... well, the staff was extra friendly and very helpful... but that's about it!!!!
Don't want to turn this into a TripAdvisor review (already did that!!!!), but merely as a heads up for other visitors...
Some things I noticed:
* Electricity is only available for a few hours a day (17h00 - 21h00). Obviously, these hours are not always adhered to! So charging phones, laptops, etc and keeping fresh food is a challenge!
* We had rats in our kitchen / dinning building!!!!! The first night the rodent attacked the muesli packet and an apple. We had to pack everything into bins everyday; and left the sacrificial apple out in the open so the rat would be happy. Every morning, cleaning rat droppings on the dinning table was part of the ritual. This is not acceptable!!!!
* Not really sure what was wrong with the sewage system, but my shower had a stinking smell that made taking a shower a hugely unconfortable endevour (must be part of their water-saving policy!).
* Hot water was available... but you had to call the staff to start a fire and wait... this is supposed to be a 4 star lodge, inside a National Reserve!
* The electrical installation and cooking gas in the main kitchen/dinning building is a disaster waiting to happen (check the pics!).
* I didn't eat at the restaurant as we were self catering. Heard good things about it, but would be very cautions...
It is basically run as a fishing camp with the minimum. Not like a 4 star Lodge inside Nacional Reserve, in a prime tourism area. I understand, the new owners/managers have been running the lodge for a very short time. But overall, this is a very poor place to stay and pay huge amount of your hard earned money.
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Some more pics re our accommodation
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Last batch.
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Stubborn trees
One thing I noticed with awe was the "character" (or maybe this is just my imagination running wild), of some trees.
From the red mangrove (Rhizophora mucronata), growing completely out of the mangrove environment and competing with casuarina trees, grasses and shrubs in the dunes, to coconut trees that refuse to give up no matter what...
Really interesting and proves again and again... life finds a way!
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Nice pics Marcos, I was last there in 1997, there where no resorts there then and one could drive up from Morrungulo on the beach. Beautiful part of the world and locals where great. I once had a few items stolen from my camp at Morrungulo, went and spoke to the chief about it, that afternoon all my stuff was returned, apparently a passer through had decided to help themselves to my stuff, the chief sent some of his guys to go look for the chap and lone behold got hold of him, gave him a proper hiding and returned all my goods. Good honest people up there!
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Its a beautiful part of Mozambique unfortunately like you came to find for yourself, the lodges for family use are not up to scratch to keep the mommies happy.
If only I could win the euro millions so I could restore the old hotel on the point ..................one can dream right :hehe: :hehe:
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That electrical installation with the dry reeds is inviting a bonfire.
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Now that is rustic :hehe: :hehe: But the real question is what did you catch ???
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Its a beautiful part of Mozambique unfortunately like you came to find for yourself, the lodges for family use are not up to scratch to keep the mommies happy.
If only I could win the euro millions so I could restore the old hotel on the point ..................one can dream right :hehe: :hehe:
Old hotel installment coming up next :hnthnt:
Now that is rustic :hehe: :hehe: But the real question is what did you catch ???
Didn't catch a damn thing! Didn't even had a chance to throw a skipping stone duh
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Lovely area to go to. Next time try Paradise Beach Lodge on the Northern Bank. The owner's France and Carol run a really tight ship and the facilities are 5 star.
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Hi, thanks for the info, interesting about the red mangrove, bit of a invasive tactic....
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The old hotel
The old hotel is now ruins of a once glorious resort.
Built in the 1960s it was still in operation in the early 80s. During the civil war it was abandoned and has been degrading ever since. Heard stories of a group with ties to influential political figures, that owns the hotel and property around it, but nothing really is happening on site.
We went around and visited the ruins and it really is a testament of the building quality of old days and to the good old times...
The hotel has a prime location and the natural rocky pool right in front is certainly worth a visit.
The beach is really nice and one can spend hours just gazing at the ocean!
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Thanks for another wonderful report Marcos. Pomene is one place I have yet to see. I've wanted to get there for a long time now.
Sad about the accommodation neglect. I guess this is why some lodges change hands often. I've stayed in many places in Moz and while I completely understand the difficulties experienced by owners when it comes to laying out some infrastructure in remote areas, but OH SO OFTEN... it comes down to sheer laziness and a DGF attitude.
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Lost boats
I noticed quite a few "lost" or abandoned boats either left hidden in the mangroves or under the coconut trees. Not really sure about their origins (I bet each must have a story to tell), but I heard that the yellow one for example got stuck in the mangroves. The owner took the outboard and said to a local "if you take it out, it's yours". No need to say it twice!!! The trailer looks good.
I saw a Kei Marine Scorpion 24 in the estuary being operated as a artisanal boat. Paintend in grey, they installed a diesel motor with a long exterior shaft and a prop!!!! I didn't have a camera/cellphone with me and I'm still kicking myself for not having a pic of that boat! Would really like to know the story behind her.
By the way if anyone can ID the large hulls below I'd appreciate it.
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Pomene is without doubt, one of the most beautiful locations I have seen. The big problem for resort owners is its inaccessibility. While this appeals to a certain portion of the tourists, who will make the effort to get there because of that, I think it is just too much out of the way for mainstream tourists, who provide the bulk of any resorts income. I think the average SA tourist has in the back of his mind that Inhambane is far enough, and it is only the determined (and those who know better) ones that go further. This will always lead to a resort running down (not enough income, which leads to cutting corners on maintenance), and I think this is also the reason no-one has ever rebuilt the hotel - it's just not financially viable. Overall, it's nice for us who go their occasionally, to see the unspoilt beauty, and to dream of doing up the old hotel.
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The pool & the Suiss cheese rockyshore
Rocky shores and rocky pools are usually interesting places. They are great to take kids exploring and usually (at least at low tide) are pretty safe. The Old Pomene Hotel has its own secluded "water fall" pool with plenty of fish and great snorkeling.
The most striking for me was the rocky platform itself. Amazing formation with plenty of vertical holes in various stages of development and some large enough to "engulf" a grown man. It is very unusual and interesting. Also quite dangerous to kids! The incoming tides and waves produce amazing water effects in these holes... magical stuff!
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Amazing pics John F! :clfoto:
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Amazing.
I wonder what you'd get fishing with a light outfit in those pools and gullys?
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Geets come into that opening at high tide and feed on the wolf herring that are just off that break in the rocks.
December 2013 I was on the ledge casting a small spoon and catching those wolf herring when 2 geets came cruising not 5m from the ledge and into that white water machine. It was a sight to be hold. :resp:
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Looks amazing!!!! Wow!!!!
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I have been to Pomene Lodge for quite a number of years.
If you are geared for camping, this is probably one of the best spots where you can go in Mozambique!!
Without a doubt the best of both worlds.
Advantages:
1. Launching out of the estuary makes life a little bit easier especially the fact that you can anchor and leave your boat in the water
2. Estuary fishing from the shore as well as from the boat gives you options. When the sea is unpleasant you can always chase some GT's
and River snapper in the estuary, even Cuta if you are lucky.
3. A number of reefs with good fishing although Zambia is a bit far (20km from Launch site)
4. Fishing at the point from the cliff at the old hotel can be spectacular with Live bait.
5. Scuba Diving reefs are plentiful and even finding Sea Horses in the estuary is exciting.
6. The fact that you have the Lodge with a great setting, wooden decks and swimming pool makes its attractive for the girls. At least they can get the sand from their feet every now and then is a plus.
7. The early morning and late afternoon walks are fantastic as well as the option just to cruise to a nice spot for a picnic on the estuary shore is special.
8. The friendly locals and the fact that you do not have any hawkers in and around the Lodge is a plus. They only come early in the morning by boat from across the estuary to sell their fruits and veggies and then depart again.
9. Fishing was great at Zambia Reef (unfortunately about 20km out from the lodge) and other reefs around the point and straight out to sea from the first mouth.
10.Pomene View Lodge is just to far from the beach and a little run down.
11. The driving from the EN1 (54km) kan be difficult when there is rain and when really hot with the loose sand in places. 4x4 is a must
12. Pomene Lodge only has 10 2 sleeper villas and a couple of Rustic cottages (Mostly privately owned) with ONLY 16 CAPSITES spread along the peninsula with baraccas and fairly good ablution facilities.
13. The Lodge is also helpful in assisting with supplies from "town" whenever they go through
I definitely recommend Pomene Lodge!!
I will definitely recommend
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I have been to Pomene Lodge for quite a number of years.
If you are geared for camping, this is probably one of the best spots where you can go in Mozambique!!
Without a doubt the best of both worlds.
Advantages:
1. Launching out of the estuary makes life a little bit easier especially the fact that you can anchor and leave your boat in the water
2. Estuary fishing from the shore as well as from the boat gives you options. When the sea is unpleasant you can always chase some GT's
and River snapper in the estuary, even Cuta if you are lucky.
3. A number of reefs with good fishing although Zambia is a bit far (20km from Launch site)
4. Fishing at the point from the cliff at the old hotel can be spectacular with Live bait.
5. Scuba Diving reefs are plentiful and even finding Sea Horses in the estuary is exciting.
6. The fact that you have the Lodge with a great setting, wooden decks and swimming pool makes its attractive for the girls. At least they can get the sand from their feet every now and then is a plus.
7. The early morning and late afternoon walks are fantastic as well as the option just to cruise to a nice spot for a picnic on the estuary shore is special.
8. The friendly locals and the fact that you do not have any hawkers in and around the Lodge is a plus. They only come early in the morning by boat from across the estuary to sell their fruits and veggies and then depart again.
9. Fishing was great at Zambia Reef (unfortunately about 20km out from the lodge) and other reefs around the point and straight out to sea from the first mouth.
10.Pomene View Lodge is just to far from the beach and a little run down.
11. The driving from the EN1 (54km) kan be difficult when there is rain and when really hot with the loose sand in places. 4x4 is a must
12. Pomene Lodge only has 10 2 sleeper villas and a couple of Rustic cottages (Mostly privately owned) with ONLY 16 CAPSITES spread along the peninsula with baraccas and fairly good ablution facilities.
13. The Lodge is also helpful in assisting with supplies from "town" whenever they go through
I definitely recommend Pomene Lodge!!
I will definitely recommend
Great interesting info there DJ :+ cred:
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Based on your report I want to go.
Tell us a bit about your work there. Is the eco systems healthy?
I really loved the photos and want to know more.
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Don't even think about not going!! JUST GO. You will never regret having made the decision to go there. Looking forward to seeing your pics in this report!!