ULTIMATE ANGLING - the Ultimate SA Fishing website
General Angling Topics => Rock and Surf Traces and Rigs => Topic started by: REEFMAN on June 28, 2010, 01:10:36 PM
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No swivel Trace
(http://africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/TRACES/NO%20SWIVEL%20TRACE.jpg).
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use the same trace when scratching for blactails, the only difference is that I don't cut the line but simply fold the two pieces together and puch the though the hooks eye and over the bend and pull it tight.
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Is that 2 overhand knots - or is it two turns in one knot? Cany you use a figure of 8 knot instead (like when you are making loops for connecting your leader to tippet on a fly rod?)
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Is that 2 overhand knots - or is it two turns in one knot? Cany you use a figure of 8 knot instead (like when you are making loops for connecting your leader to tippet on a fly rod?)
The pic says "Overhand knot x2" ie: 2 overhand knots - there is no simpler knot than an overhand. Why complicate things with a fig 8?
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That's a pretty simple way of tying droppers.Just wondering about the strength of the knots?..I normally tie twisted dropper knots but they're a bit more mucking around.Will have to try these out.
Thanks,Darren :tite
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Dont worry about the strength of those knots, you arent catching sharks with that trace. I have made my traces like that for years when I fished R&S and caught many large blacktail and some other species on a trace like that.
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Thanks!..seems to be the go for catching bait and smaller food fish up to a few pounds in weight. :sml:
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That's the way I make my traces for bottoms... never had a problem! Getting 2 x 5 kg fish sometimes!
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don't forget to make a knot in the sinker line to weaken it.
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(clap) Perfect Scratching trace .... :win:
Caught this baby on a trace like that ...
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Been fishing (scratching & bottoms) with that trace since I was a laaitie and it has always worked for me. Just make sure your mainline is strong/thick enough to withstand abrasive teeth.
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Doc has improved this trace...
instead of using overhand knots, replace them with Spider Hitches... much stronger!
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4674.0;attach=25442;image)
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Hi guys.That trace is very simple and easy to do.Caught many fish on it including Brusher.Its the only trace my wife will use since I taught her it.I also don't cut the line but push it through the hook eye and over again,makes it stronger and also easy for hook change.
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Doc has improved this trace...
instead of using overhand knots, replace them with Spider Hitches... much stronger!
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4674.0;attach=25442;image)
Now This one I like!!! :win: Thanx Reefs/Doc
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I use the same basic trace as Doc's modified one with three differences
1. I use figure 8 knots
2. I make the two hook snoots equal lengths - between 10cm (rocks/rough seas) and 30cm (sand/calm seas)
2. I use the trace in reverse as to the illustration.... that way the hooks snoots stand away from the line and has a bit more movement in the water. Thus I tie an attachment Loop where the sinker is in the illustration and a sinker loop on the opposite side.
I then use a snap swivel on my main line so that I can change between traces (different hook sizes / snoot lengths) as necessary. This also allows me to quickly switch to spoon when the shad comes on the bite.
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Great Idea Critter (fester)
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I use the same basic trace as Doc's modified one with three differences
1. I use figure 8 knots
2. I make the two hook snoots equal lengths - between 10cm (rocks/rough seas) and 30cm (sand/calm seas)
2. I use the trace in reverse as to the illustration.... that way the hooks snoots stand away from the line and has a bit more movement in the water. Thus I tie an attachment Loop where the sinker is in the illustration and a sinker loop on the opposite side.
I then use a snap swivel on my main line so that I can change between traces (different hook sizes / snoot lengths) as necessary. This also allows me to quickly switch to spoon when the shad comes on the bite.
Draw us a pic Critter?
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Will take some pictures over the week-end and post them Monday.....
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Dnt under estimate this trace. Pulled a 17kg blue ray and a diamond close to 40kg on this trace while scratchn for sandies... Bullet proof with the hitches...
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never had a problem with the hitches.... picked up fish up to 7kilos on this and never had a problem.
i normally use a car spark plug sinker wen scratching in the rocks
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Hi Guys
I know this is a long time after I promised to post a picture of the way I use this trace, but I am trying to catch up on outstanding promises....
Below is a picture of the no-swivel trace, made using Figure of 8 knots. This is basically the same trace as the one Doc posted. On the left hand side is the trace made up as per the drawing (apart from the knot), and on the right hand side is the exact same trace, but used in "reverse". I have used small spit-shot on the hooks to simulate the weight of bait. Not sure if it is clear from the picture, but the reason I use it in reverse is that the hooks tend to dangle away from the main line, compared to the trace on the left where the hooks ly along the line. It may be all in my head, but I feel that I get less tangles this way, and that the bait has got more movement in the water.
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I like the idea of "reversing" the bait hook snoots.... logically it must provide less tangles... (clap)
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I use the trace posted by Reefman all the time when fishing with my son (4 yrs old) with his 6ft supermarket okuma rod and reel and were surprised on many occasions with the size fish caught (wave garrick, lesser sand shark, black tails, stumpnose etc....)
I use the same trace (and rod for that matter...) when I catch live bait to slide... Quick and easy....
I only got "busted" once when the sinker got stuck...
The same trace also worked like a charm in the estuary/river in Maphelane in April this year...
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Ok, I'm doff....
What do you mean by reversing ?????
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Gee, I don't want to drive with you!
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Holmes,
easy man.
on the normal trace, the hooks hang straight down from the trace.
in the reverse, the trace is facing away from the sinker towards you.
look closely and youl see where the trace knots are attached to the mainline, a nice loop in the traces line, and the baited hook is hanging away from the main line
ss
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Ok, I'm doff....
You said it. Not me.
Instead of cutting at Point B and Point D in the diagram (in which case, the hook snoot will hang from the knot above); you cut at point A and C, which makes the Hook snoot first do a vertical curve up, before it hangs down again, keeping it away from the mainline...
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:hehe:
Ok, that makes sense !!!!!
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Dont feel too bad Homz. I was in the same boat as you. :hehe: .
Thanks for clearing that up Reefs.
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With the Vidal ledges in mind what size hooks will you use on this trace ? e.g. 1/0 on top snoot , 3/0 on bottom ???? :dunno:
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Depends what you're targetting Craig... if you're after bait fish... you can go size 12 hooks, small eds.... 1/0 and 2/0's. I wouldn't use much bigger hooks unless you're targetting lessers.
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Does The hitch enjoy being pulled from the back end like That and not as Per normal , from the front ? doesn't it unravel at all ?
I'm sure you've all seen the dropper Loop , works like a bomb but not nearly as quick as this one to tie . i have to prep in advance if i'm wanting to fish with droppers .
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Old thread but this trace is how I make my daisy rigs for offshore trolling. Cut leg on left then on the section above cut the section on the right. This gives you a X-mas tree effect.
Slide on small squid, trim snoots so same length and tie on hook to each snoot. Usually have around 5 squids / legs with total trace around 1 m in length.
I also place a ball or egg sinker (3/4oz to 1oz) where the sinker is attached but have it covered by a larger squid.
Lighter nylon for bonnies and heavier for YFT.
Hope this makes sense?
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Old thread I know, but relevant...
I've recently discovered the Dropper Loop and I've now made a whole bunch of traces about 90cm in total length that have x2 hook snoods of 20cm. Attached are very small#8, #6 and #4 hooks - with a thinner lower sinker line on a small ½Oz ball sinker. My light spinning rod and this rig has been used to quickly catch streepies or sand steenbras. Small bit of chokka tentickle double hooked usually does the trick. Honestly I think I pulled x4 streepies in under 5 minutes. Spent more time hooking the chokka on than rig in the water.
Something quite a bit bigger came along, probably a dassie, and gave an excellent run on the super light setup - actually broke the 4.5kg line!
:blktl:
Unusual as the bait was really, really tiny. Now I've upgraded 0.35mm 8.5kg line to take the hit!
Sand steenbras fillet and chokka combo produced some excellent action the last time I dropped into deep water - so will be using this rig to make bait.
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Here's the deluxe version of the anti-tangle scratching trace... http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=16620.0 (http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=16620.0)
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Wow Reefman! That's probably a whole afternoon's knitting to make that up, not to mention hardwear. Good to have a fiddle if you can though. Would hate to loose that rig in the bricks - as it's a considerable investment in time!
With a dropper loop, you kind of end up with a similar "T" connection as the coils compress firmly against the mainline and snood to give you a rigid t-piece connection. When you cut one part of the loop to make the longer hook snood, it falls away and remains perpendicular to the mainline, and stays that way even with smaller hooks and bait.
The thicker the mainline, the more obvious this compressed t-piece is. And you can probably tie a dropper on your mainline in under a minute, on the rocks too.
I think I did a full 6-8 turns to make a sturdy dropper loop. Just not sure how much strength it has compared to the original line?
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For sure, on the beach the no swivel trace is the way to go... quick and easy. But for us landlocked okes, we have to find things to do to feed the passion! :fshn:
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Speaking of T-piece connections, this one from my favourite Chinese shop! Quite an elaborate wire setup with crimps and alles...
https://www.banggood.com/70-cm-Stainless-Steel-Wire-Leader-Fishing-Line-Lure-Trace-Cable-Braided-Fishing-Line-p-1023814.html (https://www.banggood.com/70-cm-Stainless-Steel-Wire-Leader-Fishing-Line-Lure-Trace-Cable-Braided-Fishing-Line-p-1023814.html)
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I have a very easy and very strong knot that will for for this ....
We use it for making up daisy chains , and ' longlining'
Will post pics still today.
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Speaking of T-piece connections, this one from my favourite Chinese shop! Quite an elaborate wire setup with crimps and alles...
https://www.banggood.com/70-cm-Stainless-Steel-Wire-Leader-Fishing-Line-Lure-Trace-Cable-Braided-Fishing-Line-p-1023814.html (https://www.banggood.com/70-cm-Stainless-Steel-Wire-Leader-Fishing-Line-Lure-Trace-Cable-Braided-Fishing-Line-p-1023814.html)
Those look pretty but my gut feeling tells me that those snap clips will fail with the first fish
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I have a very easy and very strong knot that will for for this ....
We use it for making up daisy chains , and ' longlining'
Will post pics still today.
I'm all eyes!
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This is the knot that I use when making scratching traces for small fish or bait fish traces. The line protruding at 90 degrees is the one to the hook, you just add as many as you like. Then as normal a swivel on top and your sinker at the bottom.
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This is the knot that I use when making scratching traces for small fish or bait fish traces. The line protruding at 90 degrees is the one to the hook, you just add as many as you like. Then as normal a swivel on top and your sinker at the bottom.
How do you tie it?Is it a normal dropper loop with on leg of the loop being cut close to the knot? :dunno:
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Lofty, it's just a closed loop "blood knot", 4 to 6 turns or depending on the line thickness you can use more or less turns. Then one end cut to lengthen the snoot or it can be used as a double line. With the dropper coming out at 90 degrees it does help with tangles on the thinner diameter lines. See attached.
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Lofty, it's just a closed loop "blood knot", 4 to 6 turns or depending on the line thickness you can use more or less turns. Then one end cut to lengthen the snoot or it can be used as a double line. With the dropper coming out at 90 degrees it does help with tangles on the thinner diameter lines. See attached.
That's the Dropper Loop I was refering to.
http://fishing-nation.org/technical/knots1/knots-dropper.jpg (http://fishing-nation.org/technical/knots1/knots-dropper.jpg)
Same, same. Such a simple knot that when pulled helluva tight gives a nice 90º snood. I did read on a Euro forum that it only holds about 40% of the total line strength - but have not tested this myself yet. My rigs are small for streepies and sand steenbras - so 0.30mm line is perfect.
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(http://fishing-nation.org/technical/knots1/knots-dropper.jpg)
In case you missed the link above. And you trim one end of the loop close to the actual knot to make a longer hook snood.
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(http://fishing-nation.org/technical/knots1/knots-dropper.jpg)
In case you missed the link above. And you trim one end of the loop close to the actual knot to make a longer hook snood.
This is the start of the knot I know , . But , you have to make a overhand knot in the sinker snoot , that locks it in place , the commercials do it by us for the silverfish , the use a 70 kg line with 6 hooks on , and 24 once lead , drop to 50 faam. So it's strong enough when done correctly , pretty convinced about that .
On thinner lines like 5 tot 10 kg line , I would be careful .
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Thanks Zak E Boy,that's exactly as I expected,thanks a lot.. :corrct: :clwn :tkx: :+ cred: