ULTIMATE ANGLING - the Ultimate SA Fishing website
General Angling Topics => Sliding technique => Topic started by: REEFMAN on June 28, 2010, 12:56:30 PM
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Tutorial on how to Build a Slide Trace
For more detailed info on the art of sliding, read this thread: http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=3128.0 (http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=3128.0)
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/SLIDE/SLIDE 1.jpg)
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/SLIDE/SLIDE 2.jpg)
You will need:
1.2m 200lb Carbon coated steel
1m 150lb Carbon coated steel
Stopper Ring with swivel
2x 10/0 Quality Hooks
Non return slide - either Shakedown or Standard weighted clip with bead spacer under the coil
Crimp and Skirt/Couta Duster
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/SLIDE/SLIDE 3.jpg)
2 different types of non-return slide clips:
(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/slide%20std.jpg)
(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/slide%20shakedown.jpg)
My personal preference is to tie my slides 1m long, using Shake Down Slide clips, using a Snell knot on the top weight bearing hook and a Flemish with crimp on the bottom hook.
How to tie the Different steel knots can be found here (http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?board=18.0)
In this tutorial, we will show you how to tie 4 different knots in steel:
1. Flemish eye with wraps
2. Snell knot
3. Swivel knot with wraps
4. Flemish eye with crimp
The other knot that can be used is the standard Fig 8.
Find the knot that works for you and use it. They can all be used interchangeably.
We have only used different knots in the tut in order to explain how to do them! w;k
To tie the first hook on, we will be using the Flemish eye with wraps.
Using the 200lb steel...
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/SLIDE/SLIDE 4.jpg)
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/SLIDE/SLIDE 5.jpg)
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/SLIDE/SLIDE 6.jpg)
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/SLIDE/SLIDE 7.jpg)
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/SLIDE/SLIDE 8.jpg)
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/SLIDE/SLIDE 9.jpg)
6 or 7 wraps does the trick
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/SLIDE/SLIDE 10.jpg)
Now we need to tie on the 2nd hook, which is the weight-bearing hook. Here we will use a Snell knot.
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/SLIDE/SLIDE 11.jpg)
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/SLIDE/SLIDE 12.jpg)
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/SLIDE/SLIDE 13.jpg)
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/SLIDE/SLIDE 14.jpg)
Make sure the tag end goes through the back of the Hook eye, exiting the front (towards the hook tip).
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/SLIDE/SLIDE 15.jpg)
Kinking the wire keeps it from uncoiling.
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/SLIDE/SLIDE 16.jpg)
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/SLIDE/SLIDE 17.jpg)
Now we need to attach the Non return slide clip. We will use a Swivel knot with wraps here.
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/SLIDE/SLIDE 18.jpg)
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/SLIDE/SLIDE 19.jpg)
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/SLIDE/SLIDE 20.jpg)
Wrap the tag end 6 or 7 times tightly.
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/SLIDE/SLIDE 21.jpg)
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/SLIDE/SLIDE 22.jpg)
Finally, we need to tie the 150lb steel to the Stopper Ring. Here we will use the Flemish eye and crimp
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/SLIDE/SLIDE 23.jpg)
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/SLIDE/SLIDE 24.jpg)
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/SLIDE/SLIDE 25.jpg)
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/SLIDE/SLIDE 26.jpg)
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/SLIDE/SLIDE 27.jpg)
If you don't want to use steel to the Stopper Ring, use a nylon thimble to tie the leader onto the Stopper ring.
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=323.0;attach=397;image)
And there we have it.
(http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/articles/SLIDE/SLIDE 28.jpg)
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:shre: REEFMAN Nice info!!!! :udman:
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So for fishing along the Falsebay coastline in the Western Cape, what should the length of the slide trace be?
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(clap) :tkx:
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Reefman,
What is the purpose of some slide-clips having a little weight and others not? Secondly what would you consider the maximum lenght of the hook trace?
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I'm not Reefman but the weight assists the slide in getting out. Sometimes when sliding off a beach you will need to clear a bank. The weighted slide will hang up on the bank.
The length of your trace will depend where you fish. Beaches 60cm if in the kei on high deep water points some will go to 1.2m but I stick to 80-90cm
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Thanks HP
I only directed to Reefs as he started the tread. I however appreciate any experienced advise. I will make use of your info and thanks for that. Would you use a steel only, nylon/steel combo or nylon only trace? The area I'm fishing is known for Kabeljou, Garrick and Raggies.
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Garrick and kob are quite put off by steel so if you target them you need to use mono.
Raggies tend to bite up the line so a full steel trace and even a steel stopper is a good idea
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:tkx:
Problem been that you target Garrick on a live bait but get picked up by the toothy. Accept that as part of the game?
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Exactly!
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Adolf,I'd rather go with lighter cc steel with the livies,just a 10-15cm bite-trace tied to your mono hooksnoot.I've got 15lb,20lb and 40lb steeltrace and I never try for sharks anymore...reason being,I've "lost" a few big :shd: too,while going for kob and Leeries with livies.A kob won't swim past a livie with thin steel,but you WILL lose BIG "Blou"elf if not using it... swr ever reeled in half a livie with the hooks just missed or bitten off before the fight even started...?? duh :hehe: the steel gives some peace of mind and protection against the razor gang...
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Dankie Lofty,
Wanneer gaan ons bietjie gooi? :fshn:
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The original tutorial was done in 2006, so this one has been long overdue for an update. Different knots are now explained and tackle options updated.
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question... y not just do a snell on both hooks? I do it that way and takes away the knot on the bottom hook.
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question... y not just do a snell on both hooks? I do it that way and takes away the knot on the bottom hook.
I've always snelled my bottom hook of the slide, works well for me, but to each their own.
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question... y not just do a snell on both hooks? I do it that way and takes away the knot on the bottom hook.
No problem at all.
The tutorial uses 4 different knots in order to show what knots are available and how to do them.
"Choose one that works for you and use it!" .
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i just wanted to know if it caused a weak spot. My reason for using it, is my steel knots don't look so good in anything over 150lb. So i used 2 snells to eliminate having to make 2 knots if that made sense now just having to worry about the one at the slide.
Everyone else knotted the bottom hook so i thought there must be a reason.
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There is a reason. If you snell the bottom hook, then that part of the trace is quite stiff, the hook not being very mobile. When done with a Flemish eye, the hook can move freely through the eye. This makes pinning the hook through the bait much easier than with a snell, because you can almost turn the hook upside down without bending the wire. With the snell, you have to get the pinning of the bottom hook spot on, otherwise there is tension on the steel between the 2 hooks, which can often tear the hook out through the flesh.
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100% correct it is a problem that has occurred. especially in soft baits like maccies. Had to make special pins and add extra cable ties to prevent this even then it still tore sometimes. I shall have to try this fiendish flemish eye...
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I shall have to try this fiendish flemish eye...
She's a piece of cake! Much easier even than a Bimini! :hehe:
http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=79.msg142#msg142 (http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=79.msg142#msg142)
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Hi how long should your sinker be in relation to your slide trace.
Reg Ant.
killerant@mweb.co.za
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I assume you're talking about the Sinker line? Doesn't really matter, because the sinker gets clipped to the stopper ring on the cast. 50-100cm is fine.
On the hookup, the sinker line very often breaks anyway.
Check this out for more info.... http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=3128.0 (http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=3128.0)
(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/sinker%20connxn.jpg)
(http://www.africanaquatics.co.za/FISHING/Fishing%20stuff/SLIDING/sinker%20clipped.jpg)
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:welc: killerant :toppie:
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Hi how long should your sinker be in relation to your slide trace.
Reg Ant.
killerant@mweb.co.za
Your sinker line , should be longer than your trace ( slide ) if the sinker line are very short , your slide tends to tangle on the wire of your sinker .
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Great tutorial Reefman (as are all of your tutorials). Can feel the urge to head to the coast again!
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Haha Ian, thanks! Tutorial is only 11 years old! :shk
Was actually posted originally on C-line in 2006! Eish... that's a long time ago.
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My sinker traces are never longer than 30cm.....and i use .70 minimum for the trace. I also never ever clip the sinker for casting.........
1. A longer sinker trace is completely unecessary.....
2. I hate losing sinkers....i go to 1mm sometimes.....i hardly ever lose a slide sinker.....
3. Clipping your sinker leads to a big loop of line flailing round during the cast.....when this tangles in the wires your sinker sits sideways and cannot grip........
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I do the same as Greg (don't I feel like a pro now :rotfl)
I've found that the stronger line on your sinker line really helps with recovering more sinkers and funnily enough even using .65mm line on the sinker it still tends to be that piece that lets go when you do get stuck rather than the main line as you would expect. Must be something to do with where the maximum tension is :dunno:
One thing to keep in mind when you do use a heavier sinker line especially with very strong mainline is be prepared for an interesting time when your sinker does actually get stuck :rotfl :rotfl