ULTIMATE ANGLING - the Ultimate SA Fishing website
General Angling Topics => DIY Rodbuilding => Topic started by: hrogers on May 17, 2014, 07:33:50 PM
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Hi UA - I need some assistance please. Can anybody give me some info for this rod restoration - I guess it's the resin that starts to crack.
Can I take this layer on the rod off ?
I don't want to damage the rod. What will be the best method be to clear the area
Thanks
Henry
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Got some good tips at www.sealine (http://www.sealine) - Rod already done here is the end results only need to seal the layer again
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End result
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For best long lasting results you should strip the old reson of and redo. Only resealing it would only be a temporary fix.
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It was only the part from Rod handle till where the stickers end that was sealed.
I did varnish the rod all over - Its only where the stickers are displayed that must be re-sealed with a sealer.
Thanks for the advice
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These days we don't use varnish any more. The varnish is not that durable as the clearcoats and flex coats we use these days.
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Thanks for that information I did have some left and used it on only the part that was cleared.
What is the correct method to use this Flex coat ? I did put it on with a small brush.
Can you used this over rod that was already varnished ?
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For beter and longer lasting results I would rather strip the rod to the blank. The correct way of applying flex coat is on a laugh or draai bank as we call it in afrikaans. It should turn at no more than 100rpm for atleast four hours till tatch dry. This will give you a nice thick glossy finish that will look like the binding is wrapped in glass. You can do the hole rod but it is to expensive. I use 2k clear coate that you can buy from midas or the lockal paint shop. It sets quicker and you don't have to turn it on the laugh to get an even set. This is for the blank its self, for the bindings you use the flex coat. The clear coat does not scratch as easy as the varnish.
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Thanks :tkx: I don't have a draai bank therefore it will be much easier for me to use clear that can be sprayed on.
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My draai bank that I use to sand the cork grips is one that you normaly use for wood work. The one that I use to do the flex coat is one that I have built with a wiper motor. Used a tv game adapter to bring the 220v down to 12v. You just need to put a fan on the wiper motor to keap it cool. For best results on the flex coat you need to do it on a nice hot day. Temperature in the order of 18 to 25 degrees Celsius. After applying the flex coate you can also use a hairdryer to heat the wraps up to get rid of air bubbles and to help get that nice even finish. When heated up the flex coat is more runny and penetrate the binding thread better. Before you put the flex coat on to the bindings just use a lighter to burn away al the loos cotton. Don't put the flame directly on to the binding, this will leave black burn marks and will leave you with uneven colours on the binding. Let it turn for four hours and let it cure for another 10 to 12 hours. The longer the better.
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End result
:shk ...Is that a Butterworth????????????
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Yes it is a Butterworth 12 ft Surf Light Rod
Thanks for all the information, that's very useful
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Butterworth Surf Special
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Butterworth photo
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:envy ...DAMN...Bud ..Thats a DAMN fine rod you have there!!!...Look after it and it will serve you VERY well!!!...Not too many of those Surf Specials laying around...
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Thanks that's one of my best rods